foehnsturm

Don't ask how long it took ... However the result looks ok.

It looks like printing PVA is kind a nightmare. I managed to get good printbed adhesion and to print slow enough to get reliable results. Also I learned that fans are a no go. But once PVA support starts on top of a PLA surface there's virtually no adhesion. Hey that's the main use case why I would consider using PVA ... Any good advice?

Ah yeah, saw this somewhere. Would certainly be tempting as a DIY project. But the material of the bowl and rotating disc could be a problem. Did you use wet or dry polishing?

Same here, the only way to find the values I posted was playing around with PID settings via printrun during a print. With P12.0 I0.8 D70.00 overshooting now is within +/- 2 °C.

I don't know But it looks like there're quite a some people with problems out here. For me the game changer was a drastically lower I value (huge damping).

Unfortunately not with my UM2+ upgrade. Heavy overshooting (+15°C) and impossible to autotune.

Try something like P12.0 I0.8 D70.00.

Well, in this case you shouldn't expect relative tolerances like +/- 5%. Typical radial runout errors of chucks are in the range of 20 - 50 µm, if they aren't super expensive. No matter what the bore diameter is - and this is mass production. I had thousands of nozzles manufactured for my wok burners with 0.58, 0.60, 0.65 and 0.70 mm. To my experience, burr free edges and minimum surface roughness are more important than accuracy better than +- 0.05 or 0.03 mm.

You are correct with your assumption. Thew door frame is about 1mm in square. If you want this to become better you have to switch to super-slowmotion. But this part has 8 of them on every layer so it would take ages. Additionally, I just threw S3D at it without any special optimization. I'm sure there's a lot of potential for better slicing.

Priming towers and ooze shields are greatly overestimated

I have the magnetic coupler running on three different setups now. The newest one uses 2 x 4 cylidrical magnets of size 6 mm in diameter and 3 mm in length. This one is really super-strong. You can literally grab the printhead and throw the x/y gantry whereever you want without any sign of disengaging. You're of course right that a longish printhead will be prone to vibrations (even without a magnetic coupler). And yeah, the lack of room. So true with the Ultimaker (elserbot) type gantry. Adressing this needs a smarter firmware, a modified (shorter) buildplate or an other type of dock. For the wiper, I dare to claim that no one investigated thoroughly enough so far. That's my impression when I compare my latest design to all the other solutions out there. Sounds bold, I know But all the prints I showed recently were made with the tool changer and without using any prime/wiping towers or ooze shields. The wiping device needs some more testing and isn't ready for publishing yet. But you'll get to know within a few months

I might start with visiting a local blasting job shopper where you can do blasting by yourself as well. Do you think with the proper media it will even out the layering structure on the surface?

I'm tempted to try as almost all other post-processing possibilities for PLA show considerable disadvantages (already tried THF, Ethyl acetate, vibratory tumbling, surface remelting, ...). Not looking for the time consuming hand polishing approach. On their website, Stratasys claims "bead blasting with plastic media is an ideal solution"

I have some experience with various wiping devices. The major prob with Ultimakers is, that the nozzle is unable to reach an area outside the printbed. Therefore a wiping device not only occupies some print space but also has to be designed that it doesn't intefere with the build plate during the first milimeters of a print. Doable but challenging.

At least the filament manufacturer claims it's working with t-glase and XTC-3D. http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html

Well, I mounted a preliminary upgrade kit two months ago and it didn't require any drilling. I wouldn't expect this to change.

Recently I made some molds for silicone casting. To speed up setting they have been heated to 85 °C with no problems. I also printed a thin walled thing, a cookie cutter and can confirm @ultiarjan's observations. It became considerable softer during boiling. However, no de-lamination and everything ok when cold again.

Just an observation from a noob, regarding this issue: Just printed some 10 hrs with a slight rattling noise until I discovered the front left long screw beeing loose. Everthing is still working perfect. So, not much tightening required I think. Distance here is 17.1

That's what I made. If just glued to the axle it became loose over time.

Architects will love it. Some kind of church. BioFila, wall thickness (entire wall) 1.6 mm & translucent blue, wall thickness 0.8 no post processing

sounds familiar ...

Hey great! Does it work like intended? I would like to copy

100% translucent blue <-> 90% opaque BioFila (for some reason S3D refused to slice the 100% opaque part).

I wouldn't say layers undermine transparency, they add light scattering, which has some influence on transparency but mostly on how "clearly" you can look through. But glass-like transparency with FFF is very hard to achieve anyway. So I'm more interested in the properties for diffused light.