Nicolinux

Nope, can't do it. Tht tip of my digital caliper is not fine enough.

You mean the gap between the strands? Ok, can do.

Hi, I took some closeups of the test print (don't mind the fisheye on the first pic - that's just the cheap lens I bought for the iPhone). The pattern of the line spacing changes over the its area. Top left, the lines are thinner but closer together. Bottom right, the lines are thicker (or two lines are together followed by a space). And here is a "real life" example. The strands are quite far apart. I have the impression that it is getting worse with every print. This way I'll never be able to print a water tight vase (apart from the visual impact).

Ohhh, good to know. Sorry for persisting though. I did another test - just a flat rectangle (high enough to have more than 5 layers) with 100% infill. Will post photos tomorrow. But the strands do look evenly spaced apart - yet there is another twist - some strands are thinner then others. Here is the link to the .gcode file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yoddav0pm3ikhen/flat_box2.gcode

No at some point the lines reach a "weird width" and stay there. It is not visible with the object I provided the .gcode file, since by the time the lines stabilize, the object would print 5% infill. I'll print another box with 100% infill and see how it goes (but I remember that it was like that - lines reach a constant spacing and stay like that). It is at 15%.

I am not _sure_ as Daid could be since he wrote the stuff, but the description of the setting "Bottom layer speed" reads: "Print speed for the bottom layer, you want to print the first layer slower so it sticks better to the printer bed". So I guess only the first layer prints slower.

@Sander: Sure, here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjk89t4nz9xo3mp/flat_box.gcode @Dim3nsioneer: We do not say the u-word around here... or else you can hear me scream right up to Switzerland Except for the first layer, the layer 2-4 should be the same. Regarding the printer location, I did run the UM2 in the living room too. Not now, but with the former ones and I don't remember the issue to have changed then. However, when I first encountered this issue a few months ago, I remember that it started gradually. In the beginning it was not there. With this UM2, it was right from the begining.

Hi guys, new UM2 same problem :( :( :( Those filament strands for flat areas gradually drift apart with increasing z-height: W T F ?

Hi, I've just discovered an interesting property of PLA. When heated up (to around glass transition temperature) it tends to regain its shape. I was about to repurpose a ball bearing for Robert's feeder and couldn't get out those small round washers/clips. So I used brute force and put two dents into it: After heating up it looks like this: Interesting... EDIT: Using Ultimaker orange PLA

Hey guys, what kind of start.gcode do you use in S3D? I wanted to replicate the default behaviour with Cura 14.07 on the UM2. Daid answered here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6753-startgcode-for-um2-and-cura-1407/

Now that I think of it, you also do some sneaky things with the hotend temperature. You don't heat it up right away but wait for the heated bed to reach a % of the target temperature I guess. Is this possible to be expressed in gcode?

Thanks Daid. I will take it and hopefully substitute sensible values for the missing bits.

Hi, I'd like to use OctoPrint and occasionally Simplify3D so I have to use the normal gcode flavor. Right now the startup procedure on the UM2 does not reflect the start.gcode in Cura 14.07 (or I don't understand gcode all too well): ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... "G28 Z0" does not look to me that it is what it really happens. The heated bed does not move up to Z0 (or else it would touch the nozzle). It moves up about 15mm beneath the nozzle and then filament is extruded a bit. But maybe I don't get the meaning of "min endstop". Max endstop for the heated bed would be down where the microswitch resides and triggers - so min endstop must be at the top, beneath the nozzle. Also filament extrusion occurs in two steps (different sounds and speeds), but here in the start.gcode there is only one filament extrusion statement. So what would the start.gcode for the actual UM2 firmware (14.6.02 I think for Cura 14.07) look like? Thanks

Hey Robert don't worry. It is not the same for everybody. For me the print came out beautifully. I printed it with settings similar to those you suggested on the YouMagine description (0.1 layer height, 40 speed, 210°) with Ultimaker PLA and 30% infill.

@pm_dude: According to Colorfabb you should be able to print woodFill with a 0.4 nozzle. I wonder what went wrong there. How hot did you print?

@Didier: Hey thank you for the pics and your modifications. Yes, placing the UM2 higher would allow for space under it. But I don't remember a good solution to put the spool/loose filament onto something. I have a lasy susan here but have had a few failed prints when I could use it. I have a question about the wooden plank though. Do you move the whole thing around when you switch from spool holder to loose filament? Because on your pic (on YouMagine) with the loose spool holder, the plank is left of the UM2, while on the pic with the filament roll/spool, it is on the right side. Regarding a better guide - if you think about printing this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:336557 ... don't bother with the 693 ball bearing. I tried it and the bearing is useless. The whole thing turns by itself with the ball bearing standing still... What's cool though - the guide is adjustable and might fit in many orientations. And those 693 ball bearings are tiny! So cute @Blizz: I didn't move my UM2 around until now (but good idea, showing off is nice from time to time), but I'd like to be able to take it with me. In a few weeks I'll meet with two other guys from the german subforum to build a 3DR Delta printer and I am thinking about taking the UM2 with me.

@Didier: I'd be glad for both mofidifications. Thx.

@Robert: Quick, the temperature in Sweden dropped below 25°, now get the new revision on Youmagine before the heat strikes again

Cool, thanks. The unreleased adapter looks useful. This way I could access the feeder from the side of the printer.

Hehe, not really. Now I start the print and go. And when I have finally resolved my problems with wifi on the raspberry pi, I'd be able to OctoPrint directly from the comfort of my desk Good idea about the wooden plank. I think I could fit one behind the big plastic box (which would also hold it in place. Would you/did you like to share your modifications? The UltiArjan hack looks... interesting. I mean, even if it is the toilet, a bit of style must be preserved (No offense Arajan but your changes look scary).

@Blizz: Haha, nice idea. My poor plastic box is pretty crammed though.

Thanks, I thought about Woofy's spool holder but to be honest, it is too big and bulky. Also changing filament (which I do often) does not seem to be quick. Martin's spool holder might be a solution. I need to measure the clearance behind my UM2 and see if using a spacer will collide with the plastic box.

Hi, I have a small space problem here where my UM2 is placed and I can't find a good loose filament holder. Maybe you have some ideas / hints. My Ultimaker happy place lookes like this (yes, it is the guest toilet - turned printing cave). But it is quite useful with an exhaust air, non flamable surroundings and completely enclosed and hence quiet. So here are my constrains: Can not place stuff on the floor behind the printer. Can not / don't want to drill holes in the wall. The big ass plastic box (filament storage) needs to stay there. Can barely reach behind the printer (happyness ensues when the extruder is jammed...). Changing filament on a spool (although using Robert's cool holder) still sucks because... you guessed it. So I am looking for a nice loose filament holder that could be placed somewhere around there. Also thought about hanging something from the ceiling but I'd like to avoid it if possible. I tried to mount this holder mashup on the side of the UM2, but it didn't work. For one, the holder is weak and broke down with a 100m Faberdashery coil. And second the filament still touched the edge of the UM2. In order to avoid the second I printed this - will still need to try it out because I think it will be handy anyway: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:336557 If you have and ideas or hints, I would be most grateful. Thanks Stefan

There's hardly any info about Ultimaker's headquarters. I found this article from two days ago showing a bit of the inside of the mother ship http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/07/22/ultimaker-youmagining-open-future-thousands-rd-contributors/

Nah.. Ultimakers can print really fast you know?