Nicolinux

But are you happy with the status quo? The prospect of the filament bulge passing through the teflon piece every time isn't something I'd would trade. I mean, this retraction after print is a somewhat recent change if I remember correctly (since 14.x). Even if PLA bakes onto the nozzle, the next time it is heated up it will soften again so it can be pulled out easily. I'd love to hear Daid's thoughts about it.

Hi, I haven't posted here for a long time because I didn't have anything new to report (still not checked the rods and I don't think I will do it anymore). But now I have found something interesting. Back when Renthal shared his .gcode for the square, I printed it and it came out almost perfect: I did some other tests and started again with Renthal's cube: There are some very feint gaps, but nothing like I was used to. Then I took his settings (load profile from gcode in Cura) but printed the full 20mm cube with two different filament colors: This time - perfect surface. No gaps at all! Ok, then I gradually started to change settings (one setting at a time) to see what would cause it: Infill 0% Lots of gaps. Early cooling (advanced setting fan full on at height) Again, some gaps. Combing off Some gaps. The weird thing is, another test with combing on (which should be just the default setting from Renthal) showed some feint gaps too. And from here on, every other setting I changed, did not influence the print. The surface was perfect without any gaps! Layer height 0.2 Top/bottom 0.6 Travel speed 200 I don't know what to make of it. I still think it is something mechanical that only manifests under certain circumstances. I'd be interesting if others could print some of these cubes. I have attaced the .gcode (UM2 .gcode flavor) below. Everything was printed at 230°. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d98btbk3x2w4yfp/top_surface_gcode.zip?dl=0 A while ago I have also printed one flat layer where a recurring pattern was visible. I have re-printed it again. Did two runs, 0.1 and 0.15 layer height (only one layer and took care of the Cura setting about the first layer height. This thing is really only 0.1/0.15mm high). 0.1 0.15 A few pages back Illuminarti suggested to measure the distance between the center of these spots. I did - it isn't very accurate, but after several measurements it boils down to the same value. From each center of one spot to each adjacent center of another, the distance amounts to 40mm. So there you have it, added more entropy to an already chaotic problem EDIT Forgot to mention - If anyone is interested, I have added the flat layer .gcode files (beware UM2 gcode flavor): https://www.dropbox.com/s/887sedlbtslinng/flat_layer.zip?dl=0

Tried the UM badge too, also the Lock Nester one but no reaction :/ At least I've got the fairphone badge (and 3 fairphone orders in the last two days). http://www.3dhubs.com/frankfurt/hubs/nicolinux

It is 180mm diameter but due to the ball joints we used it is restricted to 140mm. But you don't want to get too close to the towers anyway.

Hi, I'd like to ask for some advice for printing with Colorfabb XT (non transparent). I printed this object on an UM2 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2 with the following settings: layer: 0.2 shell: 0.8 retraction: on bottom/top: 1.2 infill: 50 speed: 50 combing: off fan full on at height: 1.5 temperature: 245 bed temp: 70 These settings were suggested on learn.colorfabb.com: http://learn.colorfabb.com/print-_xt/ However, the print looks really bad. It is pretty stringy and blobby. Also there is underextrusion or at least it looks like it. Maybe there is a difference between transparent XT and the new one?

Hm, right after the print, the bed moves down a bit (but fast) and then the head moves to the side. I don't think there would be a big chance of excess filament falling down. And even if, this lil strand of filament would be no problem to remove. I think teflon piece wear is by far more serious than that.

By the way, why does it have to retract at all?

Hi, I noticed that after a finished print the filament is retracted quite a bit. This is actually a problem because the filament is transported very far up, past the teflon piece. On the next print, the filament is pushed down again, through the teflon piece. This will certainly lead to increased wear because the filament tip tends to form a significant buldge which is squished through the teflon for every print. Depending on the reason why the filament tip forms such a buldge or how pronounced it is, this might explain the underextrusion problems of some users where the teflon piece gets deformed. What do you think? Tested with firmware 14.09.

Not yet. But some of did manage to assemble everything and (I presume) would fiddle with the firmware. Will keep you posted. Since I have a heated bed, I have a bit of trouble planing the where the cables should go because I don't want them to be visible outside. The electronics of the 3DR are mounted on the top and I need to have one pair of cables going from the heated bed at the bottom to the top. From there another pair of cables should go to the power supply. I don't know how RichRap designed it, because I never saw a fully assembled 3DR connected to the power supply.

Except for the engineering problems, why did it fail? Did you have problems printing with XT? I have quite a bit of it here but didn't start to print with it yet.

Cool, thanks. And good tip about its width. Will file down the left side instead of bending the endstop.

Did you print it in PLA, XT or ABS? And do you have a link? Thanks.

They said it, not me: http://www.3ders.org//articles/20141010-the-formide-cloud-based-3d-print-platform-seeks-to-make-3d-printing.html And let's see how this "streaming to printer" works. Very sceptical about this...

Hi Martin, hast du einen Link zum englischen Forum mit den Lüfterangaben? Ansonsten habe ich diesen Lüfter bei eBay gefunden (5,1m³/h) http://www.ebay.de/itm/Lufter-5V-0-43W-25x25x10mm-5m-h-16dBA-Sunon-MC25100V2-A99-/231085071506 Was mich wundert ist dass es mit 16 dB(A) leiser sein soll als der andere (der hat 23 dB(A)). Das Problem dass die Düse sich zusetzt kann auch daran liegen dass du einen besonders hartnäckigen "clog" hast der sich jetzt erst bemerkbar gemacht hat. Das es genau nach dem Wechsel des Lüfters ist, ist merkwürdig. Aber ich schätze dass es nicht ungewöhnlich ist dass diese Verstopfungen nur teilweise vorhanden sind und nach Filamentwechsel oder anderen Arbeiten am hotend plötzlich in Erscheinung treten.

Eigentlich müsste ABS oder PLA keinen Unterschied machen. Retracts sind ja allgemeingültig. Wie konntest du feststellen dass der Lüfter nur die halbe Leistung hat? Und es geht doch um den dritten, kleinen Lüfter am hotend welcher die ganze Zeit läuft oder? Ich habe bis jetzt keine Probleme festgestellt. Was natürlich sein kann, dass der Lüfter tatsächlich weniger Leistung hat und über Zeit das teflon Stück kaputt gehen wird. Aber das teflon Stück kostet 15€ bei Ultimaker und ich kann damit leben wenn ich einmal im Jahr ein neues kaufen muss wenn dafür der ganze Drucker leiser wird... https://www.ultimaker.com/products/um2-parts-ptfe-isolator-coupler-glass-filled-3-dot-2-mm

Du hast Recht, es hängt auch von der Temperatur ab, denn wie Ralf richtig sagt, wird das Plastik bei höherer Temperatur dünnflüssiger und bietet somit weniger Wiederstand. Ich habe leider keine temperaturabhängige Tabelle gesehen. Grüße, Stefan

Hi, aus Erfahrung mit dem UM2 kann ich die Temperatur von 210° nicht bestätigen. Ich drucke meistens mit 220°. Wenn du dir diesen thread anschaust (link) - der Test wird _immer_ mit 230° gedruckt. Auch kann man PLA problemlos mehrere Minuten in bei über 220° in der Düse stehen lassen, ohne dass etwas passiert. Martin's und ApolloTT's Problem ist entweder eine teilweise verstopfte Düse, ein fehlerhaftes PFTE Teil (der weisse Ring an der Düse worauf die Feder sitzt) oder einfach zu hoher Druck in der Düse. Um ein Gefühl für das Volumen zu bekommen welches durch die Düse befördert wird, einfach folgende einfache Formel anwenden: Düsendurchmesser x Schichtdicke x Geschwindigkeit. Beispiel: 0.4mm x 0.2mm x 70mm/s = 4mm^3/s. Das kann man im oben verlinkten Test wunderbar sehen. Der UM2 sollte in der Lage sein bis zu 8-10mm^3/s Volumen durch die Düse zu "schieben". Bei einer Schichtdicke von 0.2mm und mit der 0.4mm Düse, bis zu einer Geschwindigkeit von 100 - 125 mm/s. So sieht der Test aus wenn es Probleme gibt

Hi Florian, ich glaube Laywood ist für den Ultimaker grundsätzlich zu grob. Ich habe auch einen sample hier, aber habe es nicht probiert - das Zeug fühlt sich viel zu rauh an. Schau dir mal woodFill von Colorfabb an: http://colorfabb.com/woodfill-fine Grüße, Stefan

Hi, ich habe ein ähnliches Problem und habe es hier gepostet. Noch keine definitive Antwort (achtung, thread ist ziemlich lang), aber es sind viele gute Ideen und Vorschläge dabei: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5375-top-layers-not-touching-um2/

I had 3 UM2's and the 3rd fan on _all_ of them was way more then just audible. I'd say gr5 is one of the few users with a silent fan... I went on and replaced the fan with this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/231085070846 But I noticed that it gets louder over time. At first I couldn't hear it and now it is still quiet, but audible. Maybe the noise is caused due to thin strands of filament (aka. filament hair) getting stuck into it.

Oh wow, very nice. Are the files available? Thanks.

Nice find opit78. The filament shape looks very familiar to me. This could also explain some weird underextrusion problems that seem to be affect only some users while others are fine. Maybe this is the explanation of the great mystery regarding underextrusion on the UM2!

This sound more like a partial clog to me. Try the "atomic method". Undo the bowden tube on the head (hotend side), heat up to 180° and feed a bit of filament manually. Then let it cool down to 85°-90° and yank the filament out. If there is something stuck inside the nozzle, it might come out. If this doesn't help, heat up the nozzle up to max temp, and poke a fine needle or wire (hypotermic needles are great for that) through the nozzle. This might help dislodge anything stuck in the nozzle.

Same here. Only 10% *going to the corner of shame, looking sad.

Nice, let's deplete the special filament stock How does the discount work? Do I have to specify my 3dhubs user name while ordering.