Nicolinux

I think this is a problem with the newer Cura versions. I get this smeared top (albeit not that bad) on all objects with a round top. However, I have other objects here that were sliced with Cura 14.02 or .03 and they are fine. One way to circumvent this issue is to either use the "Cool head lift" feature (but then you'd have a seam of surplus filament on one side).

Thanks Woofy! Sorry for the electronics n00bness, but what is the top part? I guess that's something I need to have for the german power outlet style. But how is it called? Thanks again.

And it is mostly up to one self too. I don't feel well when working with people that I am not remotely friends with. But knowing Ian, I'd say he is pretty safe in this regard

From my extensive experience with working and living in Germany I can tell a complete different story. It may be just the field you work in (software development here), but the last company I worked for (selfemployed now) was a great place and I am still friends with half of my old colleagues.

@Woofy: Where did you buy the electronic parts from? I'd like to replicate it here (Germany). Thanks.

The were in a hurry, there are some pieces left on the floor. Most likely parts of prototypes that flew off the pile while moving them out of view

That's too tidy... Admit it, you cleaned up for the photo

I'd recommend a cheap USB cam and a Raspberry Pi with OctoPrint: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00544XF9K http://www.raspberrypi.org/ http://octoprint.org/

Sitting here in Europe (Germany) I am pretty jealous to say at least... Stream it or it didn't happen!

I looked at it but I still don't have an idea. It does not make sense to give such bad results at 3-4. Is it repeatable? Did you watch the feeder to see if filament gets tangled or if it is blocked somewhere on the way? I think you have two problems here. The one is the bad extrusion and the other is the "banding" which should be related to the z-stage. As for the z-stage - I'd take it out and clean it. I'd also check if the screw is flat/even and not bent. The extrusion problem still baffles me. Try another filament brand and watch the feeder (especially at the beginning). Also, do you hear the typical skipping sound when the feeder skips and the filament is pushed back?

@dinkykb: This is due to your status as a new users. I think you need at least 5 posts to access the forum's full functionality... So say something nice and let's hope gr5 or another moderator will approve it quickly

And you have my vote ... and my axe

Argh, sorry. Didn't see your last sentence. Here is how to add a picture (btw. the search in this forum is crap. I don't know how many times I written this because I always fail to find one of the (by now) tousand posts about how to add an image...) 1. At the top of the screen click on your name and select "My Gallery" from the dropdown. 2. In top right click on "Upload". 3. Click on "select album" (or create new one if there isn't one). 4. Then click on the "Choose Files..." button and select the images you want to attach. 5. After it has been uploaded click on "Review & Publish" (or something like that). 6. Check if the images have the correct orientation (if not, click on the small corner arrow beneath each image - "Rotate image" to rotate them clockwise) and give them a title if desired. 7. Click on "Finish & Publish". 8. When you post something (in this thread for example), while editing the message, click on the "My Media" button at the top of the input field (to the right of the smiley button). 9. On the left click on "Gallery Images" and click once on your image you want to paste into the post. Nothing happens, the image will be inserted in the text field right where the cursor was. 10. Click "Finished" on the lower right and save your post or edit further. E.A.S.Y! - I wonder who designed this workflow... Daid I hope it was not you

You forgot to add the pictures. Regarding the "banding" - from you description it sounds like the z-screw might be a bit loose. Go into the advanced menu and move the heated bed a few times up and down. Watch the z-screw. Does it wobble much? Also observe if the threads are clean or if there is gunk stuck in there. You could clean it and then add the green grease that came with the printer (only add it to the z-screw). As for the underextrusion it sounds like the classical teflon piece problem. Maybe you could attach a picture so we can see what is going on.

Yes, stop printing during the night. Reaally, health is the most important thing there is.

Hi Renthal, I did print it but sadly I used a filament color where it was hard to see if the problem still persists. I have now a longer job running, but I'll try it again after it is finished.

Hi, mir wäre es egal, wobei Englisch den Vorteil hat dass auch Besucher aus umliegenden Regionen (die kein Deutsch sprechen) etwas davon hätten. Wo findet es überhaupt statt? Grüße, Stefan

Danke Ich hatte auch an schwarz gedacht, aber dadurch dass die Aluprofile hell sind, wollte ich es dann nicht mehr. Aber ansonsten passt rot zu schwarz ganz gut. Oder orange.

Hallo, länger nichts mehr dazu geschrieben. Wir sind mit der Vorbereitung schon ziemlich weit, werden uns in etwa 3 Wochen treffen. Nallath war sehr nett und hat uns mit Teilen ausgeholfen. Wir sind noch dabei alles zu testen aber können jetzt schon mit Sicherheit sagen dass da einiges dabei ist was wir verwenden. Ich habe mich endlich für eine Farbkombination für den Deltabot entschieden - hat ja lange genug gedauert Kann es kaum erwarten

Thanks for this thread - I am now too drooling all over the idea to have this in/on my UM2. stringing non existant retraction too fast to see easy filament swapping no more pieces of filament stuck in the bowden tube no more weird orientations of filament to fit the extruder/bowden tube entry OH HELL YES!

Yes I did choose zero infill because I wanted it to print fast and only did care about top and bottom layers. But since I spot the "strands not touching" problem even after the second layer, then I guess this does have anything to do with infill. Ideally, without this problem, every layer should be water tight - completely closed with no spaces between strands. Here is a little explanation. Top view of a partially filled cube: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6tqb9t3q0omop65/um2_layers_not_watertight.png

OMG! Don't tell me this is a sofware fail. Renthal, could you please share the .gcode file? I'd like to print it NOW

Hi, Just a short note. I haven't had time to work on this issue but will attend to it asap. @illuminarti: Awesome ideas. Regarding the flow - I tried printing with up to 150% flow and it was only very slightly better. As for the other two suggestions, I will have to re-print the flat object to measure the distance between the spots. Also the idea of watching the extruder motor shaft is great. Will do it. @electronic_matt: Thanks for the print and welcome to the club. You seem to have a simmilar issue :/ Except if my Cura is wonky and slices things like that - while not totally impossible, would be otherwise a huge coincidence - but who knows. Maybe one of the other fine lads could give the cube a spin (beware - UltiGCode): https://www.dropbox.com/s/a4zc5fflmvlmkkc/20mmbox.gcode

And another useful hint - The Ultimaker 2 assembly manual: https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/36/original/Ultimaker_2_User_Manual_V1.08.pdf @illuminarti: I think this manual, the UMO assembly guide and Robert's visual guide should be pinned somewhere prominent on the forum frontpage. What do you think?

Not really. There are two screws if I remember correctly - and two other metal stubs that are jamed into holes into the frame. You can check this handy guide - there is abit about taking off the cover: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#temperror