Nicolinux

Hm, this does not sound good. You could take off the electronics cover at the bottom and see if something is loose or not properly connected.

Hi, Is it just me or is the image upload broken? I can upload images, I see the progress bar moving but then it ends with the following error message: The server returned an error during upload

They do: http://colorfabb.com/specials-sample-pack I didn't tinker with bronzeFill yet, but I can tell you that the glowFill is awesome. It glows for hours (unlike some other glow in the dark filament that I tried).

Thanks for the offer. I am printing the 20mm-box from this set (it is just a simple box): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573 Print settings: speed: 40 temperature: 230 shells: 0.4 top/bottom: 1.2 fill: 0 I have attached the gcode file here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/a4zc5fflmvlmkkc/20mmbox.gcode I am also printing other objects (this is a bigger part from the 3DR delta printer). Here you can see that strands not only tend to not touch but some strands are a bit raised.

Hey thanks Matt. What do you mean with 3D work? Do you think the software might be related to this problem? I have printed all sorts of objects - mine and from other people and the problem persists. Other than that, I am not doing much 3D work right now. But when I do it it is either OpenSCAD or Moment of Inspiration.

I think that's pretty easy to come by. I would do it (if I am implementing the mod).

Very nice rail system. I also like the idea that it is reversible (i.e. only the feeder motor needs to be spliced out of the main cable holder). Now it looks way less scarry than the first prototype I don't have the acute necessity for such a mod, but I'll keep it in mind if the need arises. Maybe incorporating a loose spool holder might be a good idea too. Martin's spool holder is especially nice and fits on the default spool holder (you could augment your rail system to fit his spool holder): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/loose-filament-holder-v3

Respect for having a working key on the first try...

@pm_dude: How did you model the key? By eye or did you scan it with something? Man so many cool prints here. I don't even dare to show my puny prints because they seem so mundane compared to yours.

No sadly not. I didn't have the time to take out the rods and the pulleys and I had hoped someone had a better idea in the mean time.

Hi, check out this wonderful installation. They used 5 Ultimakers (Original) and put them upside down so they could very tall objects. It is a project to raise awareness about elephant captivity. http://olifant.worldanimalprotection.nl/

Too bad, but I am glad that you can print with it now Do post some pics in this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-122

It is not so much about calibration but to check if everything is fine with the extrusion system. But as long as you don't have any problems, you don't need it. If you were to experience underextrusion, then you could print it. Check out this great guide: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Would you mind posting a photo of your feeder? It is way easier to help with it in the feature. Also you might want to move the discussion about it here (as Robert actively monitors this thread I guess): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/page-37

Just as reference for others - here is another thread with related info: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6885-kisslicer-1407/

Es kann sein dass Cura selbst beim slicen die Details weglässt weil sie zu filigran sind. Deshalb ist die "layer view" ganz wichtig vor dem Druck. Um Bilder hochzuladen: 1. Oben rechts auf deinen Usernamen klicken und "My Gallery" auswählen. 2. Oben rechts auf "upload" 3. Gallerie auswählen (auch wenn es nur eine gibt... - oder eine neue erstellen). 4. Choose files und Dateien auswählen 5. Hochladen lassen und dann auf "Review and publish". Unten mit Ok oder Publish abschliessen 6. Dann in deinen Post in der Iconleiste (neben dem smiley Symbol auf "My Media" klicken. 7. Links "Gallery Images" auswählen und das/die Bilder auswählen. Diese werden direkt im Text eingefügt. Dann unten mit Finished abschliessen. ganz einfach

You are right, this makes no sense... Maybe look at the filament spool while printing. Maybe it hangs somewhere and snaps out of it when a certain threshold has been reached. Then it is fine until the next rotation. I know, it is a bit far fetched, but that's the first thing that came to my mind. Another idea - maybe the temperature sensor or heater cartridge are a bit flacky and the temperature takes a bit to stabilize. Go into the tune menu while printing and watch if/how the value changes.

Hey schneck007, before you throw it away, send it to me. I'll pay for the shipping Don't know why it gave you such problems - other users reported great success with it. I have a small sample here but didn't find the time/focus to try it out. Maybe there is something wrong with your extruder. I'd suggest to print Illuminarti's extrusion test (at 230°): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=809

Ok thanks, good to know. Do you have to register for an Ulti-Event or can one just pop up?

Hi, ich habe gerade mir deine settings angeschaut. Unter den advanced settings ist die "nozzle size" auf 0.1 eingestellt. Das ist falsch und sollte auf 0.4 stehen. Weiterhin sollte die "initial layer thickness" nicht auf 0.07 stehen sondern eher auf 0.2 oder 0.3. Ich schlage vor du setzt die settings wieder auf standard zurück und änderst nur folgendes: Basic: layer height: 0.1 bottom/top thickness: 1.2 fill: 10 speed: 25 platform adhesion type: none Advanced: travel speed: 200 minimal layer time: 3 Als filament Profil würde ich die Temperatur auf 200° oder 210° setzen (wenn du mit PLA druckst) und das heated bed auf 60°. Zuvor (im kalten Zustand) mit dem Uhustift leicht einreiben und dann mit einem feuchten Papiertuch das ganze so verwischen bis ein transparenter Film entsteht (keine Uhu Reste auf dem Druckbett lassen).

@The: Take a look at this thread. I am trying to do the same but had some other problems with my UM2 and lost focus on this issue. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6753-startgcode-for-um2-and-cura-1407/

Hehe, same here. I am "only" 380km away from it... I have one annoying problem with my UM2 and would be tempted to attend but don't know if I should bother the poor people with my probs.

Hi, ich kann leider auch nicht viel erkennen aber 195° ist vermutlich nicht heiss genug. Mit welcher Geschwindigkeit druckst du? Gerade bei kleinen Teilen ist es von Nachteil wenn das hotend zu lange über die gleiche Stelle fährt. Denn es weicht die darunterliegenden Ebenen auf und das Modell sieht dementsprechend schrecklich aus. Dafür ist normallerweise die Einstellung in Cura "Minimal layer time" (unter advanced). Aber das funktioniert nicht immer da das hotend dann einfach nur langsamer druckt aber trotzdem über die gleiche Stelle drüber fährt. Eine Alternative ist "Cool head lift" und "Minimum speed" (expert config). Das Druckbett fährt herunter und wartet dass sich die aktuelle Schicht abkühlt wenn es die "minimum speed" unterschreitet. Kombiniert mit "Minimal layer time" kann man so erreichen dass z.B. mehrere Sekunden für jede Schicht vergehen damit diese abkühlen. Das würde zwar die Druckzeit erheblich erhöhen aber dafür hat man saubere Ausdrucke. EDIT Eine andere Möglichkeit wäre es zwei kleine Teile zur gleichen Zeit zu drucken. Somit hat dann eine Schicht genug Zeit abzukühlen. Man kann in Cura im Menü unter "Tools" einstellen ob mehrere Teile einzeln oder zusammen gedruckt werden. Das funktioniert nicht immer zuverlässig - aber du kannst es ja in der "Layers" Ansicht sehen (button oben rechts in Cura).

You should be happy it happens only with XT. I have this kind of top surface with PLA :(

Ok, good idea. I too want to print at the lowes possible temperature. But when the volume increases and you need to increase temperature - you are far away from the lowest temperature. So how do you know which temperature to choose? I still think you would need to have a constant volume.