Nicolinux
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Posts posted by Nicolinux
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Cura sollte eine Datei namens "cura.log" erstellen. Schau mal hier (unter "logging issues"). Üblicherweise steht in der cura.log der Grund. Wenn du nicht weiter kommst, dann poste die relevanten Infos aus der Log Datei.
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Hi,
soooo... adulthood huh? Where you have to wash your own laundry and hang it to dry... fun times. Except when it comes to socks. They come in pairs but leave the washing machine in a scrambled ball of sock doom which takes ages to sort. I'd like to tackle this problem with technology and print "sock clips" so they stay together. But I don't know what kind of filament to use. PLA should be fine since I am washing laundry at 30/40 C but I am more worried about the filament's resistance to detergents.
Do any of you have experience with it?
Thanks.
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Das klingt danach dass das Board kaputt ist.
Ich schätze mal du hast die einfachen Fälle bereits abgecheckt - Stromkabel locker z.B.
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Einen weiteren Grund für die schlechte Haftung kan ein ungenaues Bedleveling sein. Ist bei dir das active bed leveling aktiviert?
Wenn du das bed leveling durchführst, achte darauf während du das Stück Papier zwischen Nozzle und Heizbett bewegst, das Papier an einer Ecke fest zu halten und nicht mit dem Finger auf das Papier von oben zu drücken da du damit das Heizbett nach unten drücken würdest.
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@chrisgr99 If I understand Robin's answer correctly, the model you are printing "might" be too high res. If you have created the model yourself, try exporting it with a lower resulution to an .stl file.
If it is a pre-made .stl file, then try another model (completely different model - just pick something on Thingiverse or YouMagine).
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Hi,
Check you graphics card drivers and update to the latest version. This could fix the issue.
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Hi @Linusthehound and welcome to the forums. I have split your question into a new topic.
Regarding to the problem, sometimes the estimated time changes during printing, but it should get more accurate towards the end of the print. Did you abort the print or did you leave it on?
When you select the material and the nozzle in Cura, you should get a warning if something does not fit. Nylon is supported on the UM2+ so it should print fine. Nylon is an advanced material though. You need to take some precautions regarding the adhesion to the build plate. Here are some instructions for Nylon:
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22233-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-nylon
If you use the latest Cura version, on the top right where you select the material an nozzle, there is a "Check compatibility" button/link. Click it and you'll be redirected to a Ultimaker page with a material/nozzle matrix.
Also in Cura, make sure to select the proper profile after you have selected the material.
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Hi,
did you try to print different models? If you are using Cura, take a look at the "layer preview" to see if the generated gcode does indeed extrude something.
If you did use Cura, which profile did you select?
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Kann es sein dass der Drucker selbstständig die .gcode Dateien auf der SD-Karte verändert? Ansonsten auch mal den SD-Kartenslot auspusten - manchmal kann es wirklich so einfach sein ?
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@Edelraster Welchen Drucker benutzt du und welches Profil hast du in Cura ausgewählt?
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Looking at the picture, the second print core might have been inserted in a wrong way at first. The cores should be at the same height. Here is a picture of my print head:
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Hi,
which printer do you use? Do you use Cura? If yes, which print settings did you select?
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When you use the layer preview in Cura, does it show the same gaps as in the printed object?
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@Otti62 Laut tinkergnome solltest du "Einziehen bei Schichtänderung" ausschalten und nicht aktivieren.
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Was meinst du "über die App"? Druckst du über die UM3 iPhone oder Android App? Ich bin davon ausgegangen dass du über Cura druckst bzw. über USB-Stick. Aber wenn du über die App druckst, dann ist das eine wichtige Info bei der Fehlersuche.
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Hi and welcome to the forums.
Did you compare the old (and working) .gcode files and the newly generated one? Do the headers look different or are there any missing commands for heating up the nozzle?
When you say "nothing happens" - does the printer not react at all when you start the print or does it skip right to the end of print routine and possibly homes the head? Admitedly I know nothing about your printer hardware but since you are familiar with it, you can judge if the printer can't read the .gcode file or if something simmilar happens.
Have you tried to create an empty .gcode file and start to print it? Does the printer behave the same as with the newly generated (and not working) .gcode files?
There are several gcode readers available. You could load the non working .gcode files and see if the print preview works. Personally I am using the IdeaMaker software as my default gcode viewer on the Mac (because it starts faster than Cura and doesn't mess with the Cura settings if I am currently working with it).
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Ok, noch eine Frage. Wenn der Drucker sagt "Druck abgeschlossen", musst du es noch bestätigen oder hast du eine Auswahl oder macht es direkt weiter?
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Hi,
Schau mal ob du die aktuellste Firmware für den Drucker hast.
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Ok weird. Maybe something went wrong in Cura and it selected the wrong firmware.
Maybe create a new UM2+ printer (make sure it is the + version) and update the firmware again. With the new feeder the direction of the motor is reversed compared to the UM2 feeder. If your new feeder moves the wrong way after the firmware upgrade, it must mean that your printer still has the UM2 firmware.
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Which Cura version did you use? Latest version 3.2.1?
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I think if you upgrade the firmware, you are good to go. After that you could perform the PID tuning in order to optimise the heating control.
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Hi and welcome to the forums.
It depends on several variables. But in general you don't need that much glue (if at all). Depending on the model you are printing and the filament used, there are several strategies to use.
Which printer do you use?
Which filament do you use?
Which slicer do you use? (Cura?). If yes, which print settings did you select?
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Das ist ein Zeichen dafür dass das Filament schon ziemlich alt und spröde ist. Ich habe auch älteres Filament und lasse es für 1-2 Tage in einem Raum mit etwas höherer Luftfeuchtigkeit liegen. Danach bricht es nicht mehr so leicht. Du kannst es auch testen indem du von Hand versuchst ein Stück abzubrechen. Wenn es zu leicht geht, dann weisst du dass es auch beim Drucken passieren könnte. Eigentlich sollte sich zumindest PLA mehrmalls hin und her verbiegen lassen bevor es abbricht.
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There is a search function for settings.
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What The DfAM?
in Design for Additive Manufacturing
Posted
@SteveCox3D Thanks for the writeup. I am interested in the FEA analysis in Fusion 360. Is it possible to test different infill settings for one part? I can imagine that it would very useful. Or maybe that would be a something Cura could do, given that there are now so many infill types.