drayson
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Posts posted by drayson
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There are a few designs on youmagine and thingiverse.
I also built one myself out of a sheet of 0.5mm alu. But I modified the nozzle location of the second nozzle :-)
I'm sure, you will find a suitable one but pls be aware that the printed ones get deformed over the time because of the heat - so print it in ABS or XT...
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I painted my one in a nice green but made a big mistake - I forgot to cover it with a layer of transparent varnish so over the time it became a bit of a "worn" look especially at the parts often touched or the top plate which gets easily dusty...
Nevertheless, painting it is absolutely worth :-)
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I also agree to the posts above - pls no ratings or badges - just community and friedship and assistance... :-)
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I'm absolutely happy with my UMO.
But if I dont have to pay it... A big industrial SLS powder printer....
:-)
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Thanky for the hints woofy!
I printed the nice V-tail quad you can find on thingiverse via "sorpion" (I know, it should be named scorpion, but it is written this way there...) in scale 1:2.
I will use your list as a checklist - hopefully I´ll find the problem...
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Brief update:
- Postprocessor for Cut2D is working perfect.
- The first parts have arrived - alu profile and fan, diodes, IC
- Fan mount to couple the fan to the alu profile is designed and printed
Next:
- Waiting for the resistors and the Laser diode to arrive
- Designing a hanger to mount it below the head
- Designing a "accordeon"-like cover for closing the top of the UMO to prevent viewing the laser beam (could be also usefull for building a camber...)
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Guys, your lucky... your quads grow and fly, but mine... don´t ask...
The Fatshark stuff has arrived and works great, my printed frame is ready, the electronics mounted - but when switching on and starting, it rolls immediately to it´s back... (pls. no comments related to girlfriends... :-) )
Seems I have some issues in the sensor config...
So I guess, there´s a long way to my 3D printed flying scorpion... :-(
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Nice reviews :smile:
Brings me up to add a few cents of my recent learnings...
I had the chance to take a look onto the MB Z18.
Our technical design dept. bought it, the decision was based on "biggest build space" and unfortunately not print quality and handling. Recently I was asked to take a look onto it and assist in understanding the process and settings.
first, the printer has a nice, closed design, seems to be sturdy and looks very professional.
BUT:
The first prints were a desaster. Underextrusion everywhere and the raft was very difficult to seperate - mor or less, the prints were damaged because so much force was needed...
We tried several times printing without raft, but this does not work. Bed level procedure is quite easy and nicely guided by the printer controler, we did it twice but it started printing mid air. So currently my colleagues have to use raft.
The SW has also been stripped down for this printer. There is no possibility to set the print temperatures in the SW, very change in settings has to be done via the windows editor.
Next, there is no documentation available which can assist in understanding al the settings, just a small quick start docu.
And finally, the test prints which my colleagues got before buying were made at an Rep2, not the Z18 so they had no chance to see the "real" quality (there was no Z18 on stock at the local distributor).
There are a few nice ideas it it (leveling wizzard, heated camber, dust cover,...) but basically, it does not work as expected - so from my point of view - SCRAP...
Just my two cents...
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Great!!! If I had an UM2 I would order at you :-)
Like the nice metalwork...
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I found that solution too - and another solution from downunder called LaserBlade.
My target is to mix this 3 solutions...
L-Cheapo driver setup, stronger laser diode fom Jtechphotonic and the mounting solution from LaserBlade...
Today I figured out how to turn the laser on/off via an M42 command - simple put an M400 before and it works as expected.
Next step while the parts are still on the road: generation of postprocessor for my gcode generator...
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HAHAAAAA.... it was so simple but took a loooooot of time figure it out.
Finally I tried it with the unused Pin10 and the M42 command as anon recommended - but also nothing happened....
After a lot of research and trial&error (mostly error) I found out that M42 commands are not buffered (ref to https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/issues/666), therefore it seems that nothing happens when switching on/off - but it happens, just too fast.
Solution: place an M400 "wait for the buffer to clear" before the M42 and Marlin will first perform all the remaining steps in the buffer and then move forward to perform the M42...
Tadaa... swiching my dummy led on and off the right time for "cutting"...
Unfortunately it does not work with M140, but with M42.
NOTE: Workarroud without any warranty - but it seems to work...
Thought it might be helpfull for somebody else...
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That might be worth trying... But afaik this is only a 5V supply and I thought connecting my laser directly at 19V...
Pin13 should be easy to use. I'll try...
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Hi!
Das geht recht einfach. Ich nehm immer ein Feuerzeug und schmelz die enden an - und dann schnell zusammendrücken. Dann mit nem messer schön an den durchmesser anpassen und gut is...
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Ok, today I made a new attempt - soldered a few LEDs to the UMO to see what happens...
It seems that the M140 command switches the HB with a delay of a few seconds and that´s too slow for controlling the a laser on/off.
Don´t know why...
Next trial was to set a Pause between the M140´s and there at least the Ulticontroller acted as expected - again, the output was too slow to follow...
So, seems that good advice is absolutely needed... but unfortunately something rare...
Any hints appreciated !!
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Japp, sure, I place a switch in my heated bed wiring to change between heated bed and laser depending on the task.
Nevertheless, it seems that M140 has no effect...
I think, I should see at least the temperature change at the display.
Did a further trial today but honestly, my knowledge ends rapidly... :sad:
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Hi!
regarding the components and assambly, I´m confident to get the things right.
A few more info on the electronics:
I used the layout from the L-Cheapo schematics which can be found at their wiki page and recalculated it for my app. 1W stronger laser diode (just exchange the 8x 5.5Ohm 1W resistors by 10x 5.1Ohm 1W, the remaining circuit stays untouched). The diode is a 9mm 445nm laser diode which needs app. 2,4A for 3W output so taking in account the 19V of the UM, the resistors should be ok... :-)
Currently I´m working on the solution to mount/hang the laser attachement under the nozzles and adjust z=0 with a spacer equal to the focus hight + module hight.
Beside this (and some spare time), the GCode issue is the only problem I´m currently have...
As soon I have progress, I will keep this post updated... :-)
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It seems that M140 has no effect on my UMO...
The display does not show any temperature set nor any clicking of my relais using the M140 command.
I´ll try to use this commands for switching on/off a laser attachement via M140 S100 and M140 S0.
Here is a code snip for a 100x100mm square that I generated via an modified postprocessor for testing purposes:
;HEADER
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M106 ;heatsink assistance - fan ON
;RAPID MOVE
M104 S0 ;laser off
G0 X49.960 Y49.960 Z8.000
;Plunge Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z1.000
;FIRST_FEED_MOVE
M140 S100 ;laser on
G1 Y150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 Y49.960
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X49.960
;Plunge Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z0.000
;FIRST_FEED_MOVE
M140 S100 ;laser on
G1 Y150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 Y49.960
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X49.960
;Retract Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z8.000
;FOOTER
M140 S0 ;laser off
;FOOTER
M140 S0 ;laser off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 Z+5 X-20 Y-20 ;move Z up a bit aside
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
G90 ;absolute positioning
G0 Z80 ;move platform down
M107 ;heatsing assistance - fan OFF
M84 ;steppers off
Does anybody have an idea??
Any hints/advices???
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Hi community...
already discussed several times, I decided to give a laser hack a try...
Therefore I´d like to briefly present my next hack project and ask for a little assistance in gcode generation...
Target: mount a cheap 3W diode laser to the print head of my UMO and cut e.g. paper... (don´t know for what reason I´d like to build, nor to use it, but I like to do...)
Here´s the plan:
Components used:
- 9mm 455nm 3W laser diode from DTR's Laser Shop
- electronics from L-Cheapo re-designed for this stronger diode (different resistors, LM338 and other stuff)
- aluminium extrusion profile 40x40 as heat sink for laser module and to mount it onto the print head
- 3-way switch to change between heat bed and laser as I´d like to hook the laser to the heat bed control of my UMO
- PAIR OF LASER GOGGLES !!! (of course, mandatory)
As the parts are ordered, I decided to play with the software and gcode while waiting the delivery.
As I don´t want to change something in my FW, I decided to controll the laser via the heat bed commands M140 S100 for ON, M140 S0 for OFF.
This now the point where I discovered a little issue I´d like to ask if anybody has experience with...
It seems that M140 S100 has no effect on my UMO... the display does not show any temperature set nor any clicking of my relais using the M140 command (M190 would work, but as it waits for the temperature to be reached, it is not useable).
Here is a code snip for a 100x100mm square that I generated via an modified postprocessor for testing purposes:
;HEADER
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
M106 ;heatsink assistance - fan ON
;RAPID MOVE
M104 S0 ;laser off
G0 X49.960 Y49.960 Z8.000
;Plunge Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z1.000
;FIRST_FEED_MOVE
M140 S100 ;laser on
G1 Y150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 Y49.960
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X49.960
;Plunge Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z0.000
;FIRST_FEED_MOVE
M140 S100 ;laser on
G1 Y150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X150.040
;FEED_MOVE
G1 Y49.960
;FEED_MOVE
G1 X49.960
;Retract Move
M140 S0 ;laser off
G1 Z8.000
;FOOTER
M140 S0 ;laser off
;FOOTER
M140 S0 ;laser off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 Z+5 X-20 Y-20 ;move Z up a bit aside
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
G90 ;absolute positioning
G0 Z80 ;move platform down
M107 ;heatsing assistance - fan OFF
M84 ;steppers off
Does anybody have an idea??
Any hint is appreciated!
If anybody is interested in the laser hack, please keep me informed - so I can keep this updated :-)
Thanks in advance!
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Hi! There are several designs available.
I also designed a shroud made of alu sheet metal similar to the UM2, but there are also UM2 like printed variants.
Look at youmagine but also also at thingiverse, there is e.g. my version... :-)
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Troy, thank you for the detailed info - interesting setup especially with the supercap. Great idea :-)
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.... features of my solution that I'm going to miss like the redundant over-heat cut-off sensors and the led light that indicates when the bed is hot (even with power off)...
How have yopu managed this additional features? I would be especially interested in the LED heat indicator...
b.r.
chris aka drason
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Hey Daid, as you mentioned the mess of the cura code - do you have any news reg. Pink Unicorn??
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Great video!! Thank you for preparing this info this way. Very helpfull for the community :-)
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Great work SolidPrint3D!
Very nice design of your kits.
I'm currently refurbish my 20 years old Brown Bear compound bow which looks not so high tech like the hoyt you designed.
Again, great work...
B.t.w. Do you deliver overseas??? Could be a nice christmas present :-)
New improvements in the making
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
I also agree on dim3nsioneers posting. As soon some kind of bonus system or batches or something else which could be misunderstood as challenge is introduced, the community steps back.
I saw this on the photography community of my girlfriend and on some other former helpfull groups where this systems kill the groupdynamics and friedships become competition...
Both thumbs down for this... Sorry...
Regarding search and the profile expansion I'm curiouse to see :-)