chrisr

Hi all, I'm about to replace the Teflon insulator in the extruder head. Does disassembly simply entail undoing the four large knurled thumb screws on the top of the head or is it a bit more involved than that? Will I need to replace the washer which bites into the Bowden tube to hold it in place or is the "washer" (sorry - I don't know the right word for it) re-usable? Anything else I should watch out for before I start to take it all apart? Thanks! :smile: (Edit - apologies if this has been covered before, I did search but couldn't find anything specific)

Got to disagree with you entirely I'm afraid. There's a wealth of software and hardware available for pcs which makes them far more customisable and flexible. But as in all walks of life - each to their own ;-)

Have you seen this Ian? There's a C&C re-work here: http://openra.res0l.net/ (Edit Warzone2100 link: http://wz2100.net/)

Oh yeah! :-D DM-Deck 17 is another great map !!! Memory lane :-) When I lived in London I had a 'computer room' (a spare small bedroom) with 4 pcs on a Lan. We used to pad out the games with different levels of bots just to make it more interesting. We played loads of strategy too, Warcraft, StarCraft (huge amounts of time spent on that) warzone2100 and then TA being absolute favs. Age of Empires later and other RTS. We mostly always played co-op against various AI with those. Huge fun! Always had take-away curries or pizzas for a change and loads of beer which made for some very memorable weekend sessions! :-) Nowadays direct Lan gaming seems to have died a death. It's daft to have to connect to the internet to play someone sat in the same room.

UT2004 Hall of Giants CTF - many a day wasted on that :grin: Quake3 Team Arena and original Quake (the Dark Places re-work) Rocket launcher favourite weapon of choice! Good days still :smile: (Opposing Worlds and Magma Giant - two other great maps) Then there were Lost Vikings, most of the Lucas Arts adventures, Alien v Predator which still makes me jump and loads of others. Hmmm... maybe if I'd applied myself then to more material things I'd be better off? ;-) Still - what price fun!

Wow! this does look good - just downloaded the 30day demo, thanks for posting about this Mike.

IRobertl, just printing out the body part of your feeder design. Looking good so far! :smile:

After a bit of a shaky start with UM, I'm really pleased with my new UM2 which is printing beautifully. Just printed these off tonight in between house refurbishment and house hunting Very pleased to be up and running :smile:

I'll take that as a maybe then :-) Last question - are there any other of the alternative feeder designs in this thread which 100% solve the skipping problem? Apologies for drilling down for a simple "yes or "no" answer but I'd like to know - as I'll be having to make some printer decisions very soon! Thanks. Chris

Getting rid of the Bowden tube altogether is I'm pretty convinced, the way to solve this issue. So next question.... Is your new design, built, tested and proven that it completely solves the skipping problem? (I'm just trying to figure out whether there is a proven and working design which 100% solves this skipping problem at this point in time as I will be having to make some decisions fairly shortly :-)

Ok, so does your feeder with increased stepper drive current work perfectly with no skipping? I'm starting to wonder whether a feeder mounted directly on the head is a better design... I know that would slow up printing by adding weight to the head.... but I guess those types of printers with that type of feed are much less susceptible to skipping..... not sure if that could be done on the UM2 though. Hmmm.... :-|

So are the designs of Ian, iRobertl and others, flawless working replacements of the original UM2 feeder? Or do they also skip?

Ticket ID: RFS-647-14763 Department: Support Type: Issue Status: Open Priority: Critical Hi Sander, So that all correspondance regarding this issue is in one place, please liase with Damian at Technology supplies. Marrit already has all the correspondance and details to date. I'm looking for a thorougly checked and working replacement (not a rebuild or repair) properly packaged to withstand shipping. Regards, Chris (Edit for additional clarity)

The problem with the packaging is that the internal packing is way too rigid. It transfers every single knock, bump and shake directly through to the printer. The last thing you want to do is make the bottom packing even stronger. The packing needs to act as a shock absorber and absorb knocks by cushioning the printer. You need to use foam or something similar... I've already been emailing Marrit about this as my printer arrived completely out of true and I rejected it. But I'm not getting anywhere fast. Very disappointing experience so far.

If you remember I'd be interested to hear. I did a search but drew a blank :-| I think the idea of pushing 3mm rigid plastic filament (with a bend to it already from coiling onto a spool) through a Bowden cable is asking for all the physics to work against it, rather than with it. Bowden is designed for pulling through. Thinking of motorcycle clutch cables here etc., pull a cable through it, no problems. Push a cable through it, to actuate something resistive on the other end and (the cable/filament) will want to bend, buckle up, squirm and ride up against the sides of the tube. I get the idea of a light weight and nimble head - free from the weight of the feeder assembly and stepper motor to zip around unhindered through mass, but if it then can't print without skipping because of the feed, it's not an advantage... Academic I guess, as Ian and others in this thread have already solved the problem so far as I'm reading it? Is that so?

Bit off topic - sorry (mods feel free to move) I'd intuitively imagine that 1.75mm filament would be happier being pushed through a curved bowden tube than 3mm as the 1.75mm is going to be less "rigid" than the 3mm. So it should offer less "back friction" Has anyone tried adapting a UM1 or 2 for 1.75mm and if so, did it suffer less from skipping and underextrusion?

"Box of never to be used again things" lol! Perhaps UM should just consider adopting one of the alternate solutions on this thread. I think they'll be one of the first things I'll be printing

Not sure I understand. Wouldn't it be simpler to stick with one of the alternate feeder designs from this thread and just not bother with the UM2 stock feeder - as your design (and others here) sound as if they have already solved the problem? I can't do anything here as I'm still unfortunately waiting for my replacement UM2.

Hi Ian, are you not using your new feeder design? http://www.ultimaker2.com/

Just a wild idea (and a bit off topic, sorry) But has anyone considered using an aquarium type pump with its associated small bore tubing to direct cooling air precisely to where it may be needed? Any pulses in the air flow (due to the pumps mains working cycle) could be smoothed out with a large chamber in the feed path. Like a capacitor to smooth ripple.

I do hope the replacement they ship will have foam around it. When I sent my original back to HAC (Technology supplies) I wrapped a duvet around it as someone who will remain nameless (my girlfriend) had recycled part of the packaging :shock: A few days later at 7.00am in the morning there was a knock at the door, DHL with a very large package which I wasn't expecting. Inside, the duvet! Thanks HAC :grin: (it meant I didn't get into any trouble...) (I'm quite happy to send the Duvet to UM if they like!)

Thanks Pikey, that's exactly the sort of packaging I was thinking of. That foam will cushion the knocks instead of transferring them straight through to the printer. Who's the best person at UM to point this out to?

I think the inner stiff cardbox corner pieces used in packing the Ultimaker may damage it in shipping. It seems to me these won't absorb any knocks but will instead transfer them through to the printer? As well at the bottom of the box, the printer sits on a rigid cardboard base which again will help transfer any knocks or bangs the box receives directly through to the printer. My Ultimaker arrived damaged and it seems shipping damage is a recurring theme on the forums. Can I suggest you guys look at some form of internal soft packaging foam instead of the cardboard ones? (Edit: Like so: http://www.foambymail.com/P/poly-foam.html) (Edited again for clarity)

I've been following this thread with a rising sense of unease... A couple of questions. What is Ultimakers policy regarding those who have received a faulty/damaged printer (like I did) and are now awaiting a replacement? What QA measures do you have in place and who is responsible for overseeing those?

Win7 64bit. Nvidia GTX480TI (334.89 drivers) OpenScad I found some differences between Cura 14.02 and 14.01 for the same .stl file. Cura 14.02 displays 198 layers Cura 14.01 displays 199 layers Cura 14.02 uppermost layer not displaying correctly Cura 14.01 uppermost layer displaying correctly but holes missing