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Posts posted by zoev89
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Using those cooler packs you use for camping might better. Those remain cool for a long time.
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Hi All,
In light of the recent ultimaker event I create this topic so we can combine our experiences with chocolate printing. My current status is that I have not yet printed chocolate but am in the process of preparing.
It started with printing the parts which can be found here
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-syringe-extruder-ii
Since I have a 60ml syringe (100ml is hard to get) I printed the middel file. Actually I updated the sketchup file to repair the bottom part so it can print without repairing the bottom in Cura. In this case you will have clean holes through the bottom layer.
You only need 3 parts all the other parts are not needed or do not fit the current ultimakers. The configuration looks like this:
For testing Joris proposed to use some other paste then chocolate. I made some past from a mix of flower and heated water. Note before putting the paste in let it cool a bit since my syringe got smaller when hot so I could not put it together.
I have reused my bowdentube and used a small part for the syringe.
For the configuration to work you would need to pull the filament. Joris mentions that you need to replace the 'E' with 'E-' to get negative extrusion. I just set the flow to -100% and that does the trick. You need to change the start code and add
M302 ; run extruder when cold
and change
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
into
G1 F200 E-3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
My syringe has a diameter of 29mm so I set the filament diameter to 14.5 there is a factor 2 due to the way the filament is pulled.
If you generate your gcode you would need to remove the start of the gcode where it is heating up the nozzle and the bed. In my case remove the top part until you see the start code like this:
M140 S20.000000
M109 T0 S20.000000
T0
M190 S20.000000
;Sliced at: Mon 04-08-2014 10:18:24
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.5 Walls: 2 Fill: 100
;Print time: #P_TIME#
To this:
;Sliced at: Mon 04-08-2014 10:18:24
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.5 Walls: 2 Fill: 100
;Print time: #P_TIME#
The M and the T command are removed from the top.
I also added one of the spacers to operate the Z switch earlier and I just moved the syringe down so it touches the build plate when homed. Makes experimenting for a couple of runs easy.
I have been able to print some cylinders with my flower paste so far. I do notice that you quite quickly get filament grinding.
What are the experiences from the other people what were at the meeting. Did anybody experiment?
Here is my ini file
[profile]
layer_height = 0.5
wall_thickness = 2
retraction_enable = False
solid_layer_thickness = 0.4
fill_density = 100
nozzle_size = 2
print_speed = 20
print_temperature = 28
print_temperature2 = 0
print_temperature3 = 0
print_temperature4 = 0
print_bed_temperature = 24
support = None
platform_adhesion = None
support_dual_extrusion = Both
wipe_tower = False
wipe_tower_volume = 15
ooze_shield = False
filament_diameter = 14.5
filament_diameter2 = 0
filament_diameter3 = 0
filament_diameter4 = 0
filament_flow = -100.0
retraction_speed = 40.0
retraction_amount = 4.5
retraction_dual_amount = 16.5
retraction_min_travel = 1.5
retraction_combing = True
retraction_minimal_extrusion = 0.02
retraction_hop = 0.0
bottom_thickness = 0.3
layer0_width_factor = 100
object_sink = 0.0
overlap_dual = 0.15
travel_speed = 150.0
bottom_layer_speed = 20
infill_speed = 0.0
inset0_speed = 0.0
insetx_speed = 0.0
cool_min_layer_time = 5
fan_enabled = True
skirt_line_count = 1
skirt_gap = 5.0
skirt_minimal_length = 150.0
fan_full_height = 0.5
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
cool_min_feedrate = 10
cool_head_lift = False
solid_top = True
solid_bottom = True
fill_overlap = 15
support_type = Grid
support_angle = 60
support_fill_rate = 15
support_xy_distance = 0.7
support_z_distance = 0.15
spiralize = False
simple_mode = False
brim_line_count = 5
raft_margin = 5
raft_line_spacing = 1.0
raft_base_thickness = 0.3
raft_base_linewidth = 0.7
raft_interface_thickness = 0.2
raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2
raft_airgap = 0.22
raft_surface_layers = 2
fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False
fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False
fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False
fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False
plugin_config = (lp1
(dp2
S'params'
p3
(dp4
sS'filename'
p5
S'TweakAtZ.py'
p6
sa.
object_center_x = -1
object_center_y = -1
[alterations]
start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
M302 ; run extruder when cold
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E-3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
end.gcode = ;End GCode
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
end2.gcode = ;End GCode
M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
start3.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
T2 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
end3.gcode = ;End GCode
M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T2 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
;{profile_string}
start4.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M104 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T2 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T1 S{print_temperature2} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
;M109 T0 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
T3 ;Switch to the 4th extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T2 ;Switch to the 3th extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount}
T0 ;Switch to the first extruder
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
end4.gcode = ;End GCode
M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T2 S0 ;extruder heater off
M104 T3 S0 ;extruder heater off
M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
;{profile_string}
support_start.gcode =
support_end.gcode =
cool_start.gcode =
cool_end.gcode =
replace.csv =
preswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.
;This code is added before the T(n)
postswitchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders.
;This code is added after the T(n)
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Well they also videoed the previous meeting....
So I am quite curious what is happing with that material. Thanks to the photos of Blizz I was able to figure out how to mount the parts that I printed today. The parts that I printed during the event did not fit... The small converter print for the thermocoupler is in the way,
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+1 The forum is great but getting a overview on all the good tips and trick takes hours.. A wiki would help quite bit.
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A ice pack or some of those freeze packs used for camping will probably work as-well. You will increase the homing position so you have to take care of that. Actually Joris showed a image with a freezer pack on the build plate. He mentioned that he just pushes the limit switch by hand and did the z fine tuning during the print. The sketchup model has some limit switch models. So lots of possibilities to overcome that small issue.
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I think you would have to preheat the hagelslag. Don't put chocolate through your nozzle it is much so small for it!!
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This is the link with the parts
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-syringe-extruder-ii
Use the sketchup file since the stl's did not fit on my UM original. Note there are errors in the sketchup files needing repair. Fix part A you have to uncheck if I am not mistaken in Cura. Check all the holes if they go through.
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Joris also suggested to put the printer in the kitchen where you have all the tools for creating and cleaning chocolate mess. Actually start with chocolate paste like you put on your sandwich. This does not have the cooling issues. Next step would practice with 'koetjes reep' (don't know the English word it is actually not chocolate but looks like it). Joris practiced in a chocolate factory. When using chocolate he also mentioned having a heat gun at hand set at about 60 degrees is very handy since the 'nozzle' clogs quite quickly. The chocolate itself does not get solid so quickly.
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I have been working on my model railway track. I am building a station. This project has its ups and downs (working on it for 3 years now). One of the obstacles was how to get transparent plastic into the framework. After buying the UM I have been able to solve this problem. I made small U forms that can hold the glass and can be glued in the frame. Here is de first result:
Only the glass frames are printed the rest was still handwork. For the building I will be using more printed parts.
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Thanks
Now I have some hacking todo...
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My experiment failed probably due to the unknown plastic that needed welding. I tried glueing but it was not strong enough. A plastic wheel where you sit on must have some strength....
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Hi Drayson,
That is a nice gcode hack. can you also publish your 3point levelling? Then I can compare them and modify to my printer. i also have 3point levelling but my likely my locations are the other way around. I have 2 points in the back and 1 on the front... Thanks
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I tried friction welding yesterday and it didn't work. My part that I wanted to weld was to thin so I melted trough. Also the plastic did not want to stick. I don't know the type of plastic it was made of. Both PLA and ABS did not weld. I guess if both parts are PLA or ABS it might work but it requires some skill. My first attempt I broke the filament because 20.000 rpm was to much.
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I don't think that printing chocolate will be controlled by the computer. Otherwise Blizz will be in trouble with his UM2 (can't print from a computer).
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Hi Titus,
Can you print from SD card? In that case not having a laptop will not be an issue I think, You only need the data on your SD card. I will bring my laptop writing 2 sd cards will not be an issue. I am coming from the Eindhoven area so I can't help on the transport issue.
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I also only found a 60ml one.
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I solved the clog... Atomic metod did not work, filament kept breaking at the top. Removed the nozzle (i have a um original). Tried first with a heath gun at 300 degrees to remove the material. Did not work. Then I torched it with my soldering burner. Could not remove enough material out of the nozzle. Then I soaked it with aceton. With a cloth i was able to remove enough abs so that I had the impression it will work again. The printer just finished a pla print. In the process I also cleaned the bodentube and the extruder. Al in al quite some work but the machine is operational again.....
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Ha I found the answer I think somewhere on the forum. Its 130 degrees for abs.
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To which temperature do you need to cooll down before you can try to pull the filament out? For pla it seems 90 is good but when I do it with abs there is no way I can pull it out at 90. So for abs I heatup untill abs comes out then I cool down but when I wait till 90 I can't get it out. It is possible at higher temp but what would be the sweet spot for abs. I think removing the material last night caused me a blocked nozzle. I tried atomic a couple of times at 120 degrees but now my filament breaks at the top.
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Bahhhh I just have a blocked nozzle. Its my first. Well I will follow the advise on this forum. Put a wire in the nozzle while hot and then let it cool and remove the filament. Hope it helps
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Thanks Sander for the update.
I will bring a syringe and I will have to remove the ABS that I am currently printing (always a risk of clogging). And bring some PLA and make sure the printer is in working order before leaving on Monday. I am quite curious how it will work out.
Printing in ABS is not so good at the moment since I am experimenting with adhesion.
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The tools part is also unclear to me. How far do we need to take the UM apart to do this proposed hack?
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Openscad also has a simular bitmap feature.
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Hi Sander,
I plan to come and I will bring my machine. Any idea what kind of tools we need for the hacks? (twee linker handen :???: )
Chocolate printing
in Coffee corner
Posted
Also my syringe takes a lot of fraction to operate. That could also be a cause of the grinding. I am more thinking using air pressure to operate it so it will not effect the filament at all. Air pressure I have for my airbrush. There are quite some examples to be found. In order to do this I need to find the right parts....