zoev89
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Posts posted by zoev89
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If it is not too far from central station in Utrecht I can get there, since I will be going to Eurospoor on the same day which is in the Jaarbeurs.
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I don't own a UM2 but likely you can adjust the pullies so they don't come in contact with the frame. Tighten them well.
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Here is a drawing of my station that I am building. The printer builds the profiles that I need for the construction.
I don't use the printer for everything. The design is 'stolen' from lehrter bahnhof in Berlin.I adapt it to my needs and possibilities.
It will take a long time before it will be finished. First I need to build the raw structure and then the details which will take years. Currently I started on 1 of the 2 buildings.
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Printing is fine again. I went to 220 degrees (PLA) with the added sunflower oil. Under extrusion is solved. I also increased the flow a little to 104% since I had little holes where large areas needed to be filled in. The oil prevents the sticking to the heatsink. How long will the oil hold that is the big unknown. Up to now it is running 6 hours without issues.
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When using other then UM filament make sure it has 2.85 diameter! If it is not specified or the spec is only 3.0 then it is questionable if it works.
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I have put some sunflower oil in the hotend and will see if it will bring something. Manually I think it is a little better but I have to see how it behaves in the long run. I can't print tonight though since one of the kids want to sleep and an UMO does make some sound.
No I have not printed with XT yet. I don't have a object that would require it at this moment though I have XT laying around.
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De brim zal dan niet optimaal zijn maar de zijkanten worden dan wel ondersteunt. Dit zal mogelijk toch iets doen aan wrapping. Is misschien een mogelijkheid als de ventilator tunning niet helpt.
Kan je nog iets winnen met adhesion? Pritstift of heb je die al gebruikt. Ik zie bij mij dat de prit laag meestal maar een paar prints meegaat. Sommige mensen hebben daar meer geluk...
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Wat voor materiaal print je? Ventilator terug schroeven is een optie want de layer tijd voor afkoelen is toch lang genoeg. Je kunt natuurlijk kan je ook een brim gebruiken.
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I can be completely wrong....
Did you try to disconnect the wires from the build plate to diagnose where the short is? Be careful not to pull the connector of the board since it is surface mounted.
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Well I printed with ultimaker blue PLA and ultimaker black ABS. Both printed fine even though the spools were quite far used. It looks like the gummy surface is playing up on this hotend. Jonny what is your experience with the v6 sofar.
It does not jam or block. It first starts to under extrude but there is still flow but to little to be useful.
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I have some under extrusion issues printing with colorfabb grey PLA on the e3d v6. The colorfabb filament has some textured surface and this is causing friction in the aluminum heatsink. After doing quite some prints with this filament the filament is more bent and it looks like it is pressing against the walls of the heatsink. Due to the surface it causes quite some friction. I can clearly feel it when I insert filament by hand. I have the hotend cold and I can push the filament to the nozzle but it does not go smoothly down. This extra friction I believe causes under extrusion or grinding on the extruder. The nozzle is clean I can see right true and when I remove extruded filament atomic way it is clean and the nozzle is clearly visible in the filament.
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Ze zijn wel zo goed dat ze een specificatie achterlaten 2.85 +- 0.1mm. Is een spec waar je mee vooruit kunt. Colorfab geeft meestal 0.05mm dus daar zit mogelijk het prijs verschil.
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What kind of advise do you need? Printing a hood like he has a little smaller could be done apart from the maximum size the printer can do.
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Printing metal would be a no no. You can print with PLA with a high degree of bronz like bronzfill or metalfill. The object is still PLA but it has more the looks of metal after post processing. It does not conduct electricity.
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Which printer UM2 or UMO? Did you try atomic removal? Did you try putting a needle or a thin wire in the nozzle when hot?
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You split your design per color and slice the colors separately. Then you print each color. In these prints the colors are only the bottom layer + maybe 1 additional layer. You print the last overlapping color to the full thickness. In this way you can create multiple colors on only 1 side of the object (the bottom). For badges or other small flat objects this works well. When you use a heated bed you have to make sure that the bed does not cool-down when changing the color otherwise your object will come loose.
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Thanks,
My son is recovering. He is home and sleeps a lot.
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I am sorry that I was not able to come. My son prevented me from doing so by landing in the hospital this morning. So I spend the whole day in the hospital and only in the evening we were able to come home. So no ulti evening for me this time :oops: Fortunately we have been able to prevent permanent damage and my son will recover soon. This was a tiring day....
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Waarom zou je het bed willen verwarmen bij het levelen? Gaat toch ook prima koud?
Zonder bottom eindstop heb je software protectie. Deze kan je altijd in de war brengen als je wil... Als dat gebeurd dan zal de motor vast lopen en stappen skippen. Maakt een vreselijk kabaal. Als mij dat gebeurd gooi ik snel de printer uit en daarna ga je gewoon verder of er niets gebeurd is. Het UM design kan gelukkig wat klappen hebben zonder schade op te lopen.
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So from what I can deduce from the information. The Ubis uses a thermistor for temperature readout since you are using a 4k7 pullup resistor. If the temperature wires make a short the temperature readout will be very high or error. If the wires are open then the readout would be 0 or error. In your case you claim they read 130. That is very odd... Did you make a short between the thermistor wires and the hotend? Now it depens on how the hotend is connected to your UM board, I can't say anything about that. A short between the 19V and the thermistor input could damage your microcontroller input circuit. The only advise I can give is start measuring the voltages on the inputs of the UMO board. Given the 130 degrees and the reset behavior you described I think something happened between the UMO inputs for the temperature input and your hotend output. If your are 100% sure the thermistor is ok and connected correctly and still have wrong values you could try the second temperature sensor readout and build a Marlin to experiment with that if your AD converter in the microcontroller is permanently damaged.
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I would expect that it is also possible on the UM2. Order some length of rod and cut it to the right length is not the problem. You will have to look into the motor mount that is used for the UMO. It very likely needs some modification before it fits on the UM2. That is the pioneer work that needs to be done. Can't say how difficult it is but given the fact that I will go to the meeting on Monday I can have a look at the UM2 design. My UMO has this modification.
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Hi Dirkels
That looks like a big avatar. Quite some colors in it as well. How much time did it take you to print it?
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Hi Coen
Is heated bed modification + E3D hotend + direct drive + 1 power supply enough :mrgreen:
I have to admit I having problems printing at the moment.... Haven't had time to debug it.
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You can level very precise but the exact height still depends on the nozzle temperature as well. With temperature the nozzle expands. That is why the piece of paper (0.1mm) room must be there so that at print temperature the nozzle touches the bed. So your tool is probably too exact for this. I guess your CNC machine does not have that temperature limitation.
Super heavy weight community meet up
in Coffee corner
Posted
It was surly a nice meeting getting to know the faces behind all the posts that some people make. And having some beers to try out as well. Thanks to the organization. :cool: