kris
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Posts posted by kris
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Have you considered closing the build volume to stabilize the temperature inside? Cardboard would do for a test. I use acrylic.
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This is simply underextrusion. In most cases caused by a worn out PTFE coupler.
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Print two (one flipped by 180°). Orientation as on the first image. Connect the long edges of the parts with walls that are slightly thicker than your nozzle (to make sure they get printed, check in layer view). That way you end up with a symmetric and closed cross section. The support walls need to be machined of.
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Thanks! Any interesting developments or innovations that were launched?
Not as far as I could see. Mostly standard printers.
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Didn't spent much time, but here are a few images related to 3D printing.
Cheers
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Die Glasplatten sind teilweise komplett verzogen. Einfach mal über die Kante schauen. Ich ersetze meine zumeist.
Ist nix Neues, sind schon viele dran verzweifelt.
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Hi,
Na so insgesamt ca. 150 Stunden. Die Düse habe ich gereinigt,auch so wie beschrieben mit einem Stück Filament von Hand durchschieben.. Ich trau mich nicht das Ding dass das Filament vorschiebt aufzuschrauben...wie gesagt das Rad dreht eine halbe Umdrehung flitscht in die Ausgangsposition zurück um sich dann wieder um eine halbe Umdrehung zu drehen...also kommt auch nur die Hälfte Filament im Druckkopf an und so sieht auch das Druckergebnis aus.
Willy
Nennt sich 'underextrusion' und ist ein gängiges Problem. Wenn es ein um2 ist und kein um2+ würde ich zu aller erst den weißen PTFE Coupler im Extruder ersetzen. Hält selten länger als 200h und ist tatsächlich ein Verschleißteil.
Ist meistens die Ursache des Problems.
VG
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Moin
Schon mal die Düse gereinigt? Im Forum mal nach der 'Atomic method' suchen. Ist es ein um2 oder um2+? Wir viele Stunden hat er schon?
VG
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Hmm...ok. Well, first thing I do if I get a new UM2; close it. Helps to stabilize the process, no matter if PLA, ABS etc. I have thus far not encountered the problem you describe in any of those machines. I print 90% PLA.
Sounds as if you get a new UM2 quite often...
Do you just close the front (with bubble plastic?) or do you have a more advanced setup?
Well advanced is the wrong word I guess. I build a door and a lid with acrylic plastic. Hinges are printed. Gaps are sealed with tape. So it's completely 'air tight'. I add a cooling fan for the feeder and another to extract fumes from the build volume. It then gets hocked up to a ventilation system.
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That's overkill... I am not printing with ABS so I won't use a build chamber only for that. I guess I'll need to switch to the @TinkerGnome firmware.
Hmm...ok. Well, first thing I do if I get a new UM2; close it. Helps to stabilize the process, no matter if PLA, ABS etc. I have thus far not encountered the problem you describe in any of those machines. I print 90% PLA.
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Der weiße PTFE Coupler in Extruder ist ein Verschleißteil; ich würde zuerst immer diesen tauschen.
Evtl. den Feeder reinigen; die Achse des Motors mittels Zahnbürste reinigen. Hier können sich Rückstände sammeln.
Zudem wirst Du mit den Standard Einstellungen in Cura nicht weit kommen.
VG
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Maybe a closed build chamber helps to stabilize the build plate temperature?
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Finally on holiday with a little spare time to post a few prints from last year:
[print=3810][/print]
[print=3806][/print]
[print=3800][/print]
[print=3799][/print]
[print=3796][/print]
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Had the same issue once the PTFE coupler was over used. I would recommend changing it. Can be a standard one, does not have to be TFT PTFE.
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The only trouble I had were caused by this: lever problem
Caused underextrusion for me... but who knows. You need to open up the feeder to check, which is not a big deal.
Cheers
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Same thing here, 2 months UM2+ with low mileage. Just posted a link and comment to the German speaking community.
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20728-standige-underextrusion?page=1&sort=#reply-144750
But just driving a screw through the plastic is not my preferred solution.
I need my machines running 24/7. Makes me pretty pragmatic when chasing a solution to a given problem. I am sure Ultimaker will find a more elegant solution
But this seems to be a true problem. The only one I could find so far. To bad my primary suspect was the coupler and I threw it away :(
Although it looked just fine after 500h.
Cheers
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Thanks for sharing, I'll also forward this to quality control.
Do you know how it could separate? Does it look like the bearing broke or something?
I suspect a design flaw rather than a quality problem. Nothing will hold the two halves of the lever together effectively. I guess the casing is meant to do that. There are a few underextrusion problems on the forum where people have traced the cause to the feeder.
A screw fixes the problem.
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This might be the problem:UM2+ design flaw
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A while ago my new UM2+ started suffering from underextrusion. I gave him the normal treatment that I know from the other UM2s; changed the coupler (had lasted for 500h) and cleaned the nozzle. Nothing would help.
However I had noticed a single kicking noise from the feeder once. So I opened and checked. Nothing.
Assembled it again, inserted new filament and again, a single klicking sound and underextrusion.
Opened the feeder again and found this; there is a lever which pushes the filament against the driver wheel with a ball bearing. That lever has two halves and these did separate from each other. The ball bearing got off center incapable to guide the filament.
I fixed the problem by drilling two holes and connecting both halves with a screws, thus preventing them from separating again.
Prints perfectly again.
Hope this will help a few people.
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Ich habe mit meinem ersten Coupler vom UM2 seit Januar 532 Teile gedruckt, bei ca. 434 Stunden (nur PLA) und der Couper sieht noch fast aus wie neu.
Ich habe mir von dem Ebay-Link weiter oben neue aus China kommen lassen. Die waren nach ca. 3-4 Wochen da.
Seit Januar? Ist doch dann ein UM2+, oder? Dort kommt unverstärktes TFM PTFE zum Einsatz. Ist was anderes. Hat bei mir 500h erhalten. Allerdings ist dies nicht die einzige Verbesserung; macht daher eine eindeutige Schlussfolgerung schwierig.
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Update:
Glasfaser verstärkter ebay Coupler:
Lebensdauer kaum länger als der Standard PTFE Coupler, zumindest bei Dauerbetrieb mit PLA. Hinzu kommt noch, dass er nicht gut abdichtet und so Filament außen hochgedrückt wird, am Gewinde der Buchse durchsickert und an der Düse entlang läuft. War so richtig schon festgebacken und ging kaum zu zerlegen.
Das ist ein Coupler der ersten Generation. Die aktuelle Variante ist deutlich besser.
Glasfaserverstärkes PTFE war beim UM2 vor dem UM2+ standardmäßig im Einsatz, ist also nix neues.
Wir haben die Erfahrung gemacht das ein Leckage nicht zwangsläufig auf den Coupler zurückzuführen ist. Vielmehr können sich oben auf der Nozzle Rückstände bilden die eine Undichtigkeit verursachen.
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Hi guys
Wanted to share some experience on my new UM2+ after 560h of printing.
I operate a few UM2s and after approximately 200h of printing I have to exchange the PTFE coupler with a fresh one (30% glass filled). Otherwise; Underextrusion. Apart from that, no major problems. Printing all sorts of materials but never mix on the same machine.
For the new UM2+ underextrusion has occurred for the first time after 560h. The new TFM PTFE bushing still looks OK so the cause mighty be found somewhere else. In any case I exchanged the bushing for a new one (not TFM though, still have to source the material).
When taking apart the head I noticed that the cylinder which replaces the spring was not installed properly; it was misaligned due to a very tight fit. The TFM coupler had also been squeezed heavily against the nozzle, properly due to thermal expansion.
But have to say; a very good performance improvement. I believe it is save to say that Ultimaker listens to people's feedback. Awesome.
I use active cooling for the feeders on my old UM2s, so I will not be needing the upgrade kit. But I will upgrade to the new coupler in combination with the constant distance spacer.
Cheers
Kris
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I like what UM did. They have listened to people and improved their products. True to the principal; don't fix it if it ain't broke.
And, as I have understood, we are able to upgrade our old machines. I feel this strategy is very fair to customers.
Thank you UM.
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Exporting print profile
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Hi
When exporting a print profile, I have noticed that only a small amount of parameters are saved in the 'curaprofile' file.
This seems true for both 2.1 and 2.3. Version 2.3 is even 'worse', all speeds seem collected in a simple setup 'quality type'.
Is there a way to overcome this? This ruins the export function for me completely since I am fine tuning my print profiles down to the smallest detail.
Cheers
Kris