Titus
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Titus
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Plugins could be "DAID APPROVED"
And succes stories "SANDER APPROVED"
:mrgreen:
Without kidding, I like the idea of Ultimaker looking at designs and saying: This is good stuff! Like Blecheimers fans, or Robberts feeder.
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Ik ben een beetje bang voor hetzelfde met mijn sensor op UMO. Die ziet er ook niet fris uit qua bekabeling :(
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If someone takes the effort of doing a write up to help others I think it is fair if he also gets some credits for it.
Then ask people to do write ups for a news section of the site, or some blog, but don't do it for the forums.
Also, you'd have to back log everything, otherwise you won't do justice to the current contributors.
Perhaps tags for UMO/UM2/BOTH are interesting. I find myself reading things, realizing that they might just not be useful after all for me.
And what did you think of this Sander:
"
Perhaps a system where the topic starter could mark an answer/multiple, as "the solution to their problem". Something like this:
http://supportforums.../3025306#M69066"
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Perhaps a system where the topic starter could mark an answer/multiple, as "the solution to their problem". Something like this:
Again, no need to give credit, just a tool to promote the answers, leading to less double topics
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I knew it was not a feature! But a bug!/off topic: Saw so many new replies. Ah, Daid must be back!
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Meh, no changes on the forums. I'd rather have you guys ask people to do a write up of some sorts for a news section on the site and reward them with spare parts/filament/discount than changes to the forums.
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I believe there was a topic regarding this somewhere already.
I must say the handle is SO USEFUL! Furthermore I have a fan shroud, a tool holder, a business card holder and a z level screw.
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Maar van Joris theorie uitgaand:
" shell thickness is niet afhankelijk van de nozzle opening, maar van het samenspel van shoulder, temperatuur en aanvoer van materiaal."
Zou je dus met een .4 nozzle met 1 pass een .5 kunnen printen als je shoulder/temp/flow maar goed is bijvoorbeeld? Correct?
Maar dit doe je dan zeker door wel .4 nozzle op te geven en shell .4 en dan je temp+flow omhoog gooien.
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Im thinking of printing the two fan ducts, you posted blecheimer. Do you have a Heated Bed, or is that just a metal+glass bed? And is that the stock fan times 2? Wired to the same output?
I tried this shroud once in PLA and it cracked under the heat: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:107413
You didn't have any problems with PLA Sander? Or are those far away from the heating block? Blecheimer's are pretty close to the nozzle/block, I even see some ripples in his ABS print.
You mentioned ABS/PLA90, Colorfabb XT has a GT of 75C, that should hold right?
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Maar doet cura dan niet alsnog 2 passes voor de shell?
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Interesting, gezien mijn reeds best wel grote nozzle, zou ik met mijn .4(inmiddels gesleten naar .5 gok ik) dus een dikkere shell neer kunnen leggen, en daardoor tijd besparen. Gonna try that!
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Cool, thanks! And is that the stock fan times 2? Wired to the same output?
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It means you will have to hook up the HB kit separately. Meaning you have to use 2 power adapters, both the original one and the new one.
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Dremel (kun je vast van iemand lenen als je er geen hebt) en een boortje 0.6 / 0.8 voor 2 euro bij de ijzerhandel (niet bij de praxis, maar bij de pro's die je op de meeste industrie terreinen wel vindt) Boren vanuit de binnenkant van de nozzle, dat centreert je boor automatisch. nozzle in een bankschroef of andere klem vastzetten.
Ik kan hem prima even onder de kolomboor gooien, dat is het probleem niet(volgens mij heb ik zelfs de boortjes ook nog liggen). Het is meer dat ik niet weet welke diameter te kiezen
En volgens mij is mijn shoulder al vrij breed, hier een foto van mijn nozzle die aan het slijten is(zie deze thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8189-um2-nozzle-deteriorating-and-desintegrating/?hl=glowfill ) +de reserve die ik bij de printer kreeg:@Leon, waar zit de winst hem precies in? Want ik zou zeggen dat je met een 0.6 nozzle nog steeds 2 passes wil op de shell, dus 1.2 shell thickness. Ook hoeveelheid infill lijnen blijft gelijk, ze worden alleen wat dikker.
Kan je gewoon met een hogere snelheid printen, of minder top/bot thickness?
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But I don't want to print with ABS :( XT it is
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Totaal nieuw inzicht gekregen over de verschillende formaten nozzles laaghoogtes en de settings in Cura.
Vooral hier ben ik benieuwd naar!
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Wow, really? What is going on here. Combing results in a lot of extra travel movement in this model, yet without combing it takes like 1,5 hours LONGER?
With combing:
Without combing:
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I really can't get it to slice, or fix it.
I'm trying to get the outline and extrude it myself in a CAD program, as a last resort
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Yes it works, yes you can do it yourself by cutting the material.
The only thing I find really interesting is the piece of software behind it, that apparently calculates and designs a wipe tower so you can have actual dual color in a print in the same layer.
Still a waste of filament though
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Combing enabled yes:
1.5mm minimum travel
0.02 extruding minimum
0.2 z hop
It still shows the same blue lines. I think it's due to the following: When you have a cube that is 10 cm, and then on top of it, add a cylinder with diameter 10cm too. The corners will get filled as they are a top layer. But the cylinder will just stick to be an infill. Since there are so many small lines are infill and tiny surfaces are a toplayer, you get loads of small top layers and lots of traveling with retraction.
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Layer 10 and 11, with settings:
0.1mm layer height
0.8 shell
0.8 bot/top
15% infill
printspeed 80mm/s
temp 220 for first 4 layers, tweak at 4th layer to 200
brim(20 lines)
0.4 nozzle
45mm/s retraction over 4.5mm
travel 200mm/s
The rest is standard
Dunno what is going on :?
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Wow, this set of items has the most freaky slicing I've ever seen. I've seen sub optimal slicing and some strange pathing, but this is next level.
Back to the portecard file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274570/#files
Just before the thin lines start, it goes freaky:
I wonder if these files can be redesigned in such a way to prevent all of this from happening. These objects should be able to roll out of the printer in way less time if these strange things weren't there.
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But why is it making diagonal lines, rather than parallel lines along the edge?
Also related: Take the portecart file as example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274570/#files
It contains thin strips to hold cards up. In my opinion a double shell with 0% infill should be enough, but the thicker part to the left needs the infill to support the overhang of the top layers.
Now, the thin strips have useless infill/travel things as can be seen here:
Increasing print time yet again. Is there a way to decrease print time here?
I knew it was not a feature! But a bug!
En volgens mij is mijn shoulder al vrij breed, hier een foto van mijn nozzle die aan het slijten is(zie deze thread:
Off topic Nederlands
in Nederlands
Posted
Do want! Zou UM bezig zijn met iets anders dan FDM?
Of wordt er gewerkt aan TRIPLE extrusion
Ik ben trouwens ook benieuwd wanneer Joris zijn Z Unlimited komt!