Titus
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Posts posted by Titus
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Hmm, time to join in on the fun. Never really had trouble with extruding other than for things that probably have different reasons. During my UMO maintenance round I opened up my hotend to find this:
Left=used spare that has a little deformation on the other side
Right=current teflon. The hole is now 3,5-5mm conic hole instead of 3-3.2mm.
I can't really find any deformations and I'm not sure to what extend this would cause trouble on a UMO. I've been printing PLA only and quite a lot of Glowfill from Colorfabb
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@Gr5, it now also starts to happen with my old sensor! I'll have a look into the PCB with my multimeter
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I "heard somewhere" that super glue also does a good job as long as it can stand some heat. I've been using that for a while now and every now and then it falls off again. Never had problems with skipping though.
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I believe you "could just" snap the wires from the switch, desolder them, use proper wire, and relocate the switch to where you want. That being said, you need a basic understanding of soldering and electronics to not mess up things.
The external power switch is advised.
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Depending on your hot end/feeder:
Bowden tube collet locks!
possibly even a bownden tube(if it gets squashed or something)
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Sorry maar ik moest echt wel lachen met je laatste zin:
"weet iemand hier iets van of gewoon een nieuwe kopen?" :grin:
Ik had ja moeten roepen en mezelf als slachtoffer op werpen voor het kopen van de printer voor reserve onderdelen voor een prikie
@ontopic: Paul, is het gelukt?
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@TinkerGnome, editting those would most certainly work, but would there also be a risk I wonder.
@Gr5 The almost broken sensor does not lag, so it's probably not the PCB, but something internal in the sensor.
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@David, yeah, they range from 0-100%
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This: http://i.imgur.com/s4i06Dp.jpg%20?
Note all four leds are on, the right two are from a different batch
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Hi all,
From the other threads I've seen on Min temp errors, this is a different one.
I encountered a min temp once when I came in from the cold and wanted to start printing. After it was warmed up to like 10-15 degrees it worked fine again.
However, I got a new temp sensor since the wires of the old one were kinda broken. When I power up my UM1, it shows 3 deg C, and within like a second or two it jumps to room temperature. BUT it gave a min temp error since it started on 3 dec C.
When I heat the nozzle up to like 90 deg C, and power off, power on, it starts on 20 deg C and jumps to 90, WITHOUT giving the min temp error since it never was below the threshold.
So it seems there is some kind of lag in the correct signal coming from the sensor. It's workable, but frustrating to having to power on, heat, power off, power on your printer before you can start printing. Anyone a clue how to fix it?
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Kan je die misschien linken, want ik snap niet zo goed wat je precies bedoelt
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Het klinkt inderdaad als
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted
of
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning
Dus zoals 3Tjes al zei, even met een imbusje je pulleys goed vast draaien
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Yeah, I remoddeled it in Solidworks
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They are every 6 weeks, but since this one was a week early, it might be 7 weeks this time
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Lol, did you have to do that?
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I thought the 8 teams were related to the pages, not the things StudioSpass came up with?
Also, I don;t think they will be printed and photographed, it's the artwork itself going up the site right?
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I took a look at the lab in one of the faculties of Delft University of Technology(the Industrial Design building) where they used to have 1 UMO:
http://i.imgur.com/s4i06Dp.jpg
Yeah, 4 UM2's
Also, the Mechanical Engineering lab dumped their makerbots and is ordering UM2's also Notice the difference in LED's in between the two pairs they ordered. Any clue how to fix that?
Anyhow, they now allow ALL students from their faculty to print stuff for FREE. During this period of the semester, the end, it's booked for TWO WEEKS in ADVANCE
Really like what they are doing.@Sander, might be a fun idea to reach out, they all have so many UM's now together, printing nonstop, for an article and also for R&D since they didn';t mod a single thing(and they are also using UM filament).
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That explains a lot David, thanks for clarifying.
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I don't get the entire "designed for 0 g "thing, reversing gravity doesn't change anything that requires a new design. All you can do is bridge better
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Razer with OSVR, and their android TV is quite fun. And that new Dell laptop looks sick!
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I'm also in the proces of designing a little wheeled box trolly flightcase thingie for my UMO
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Well yes, but with the Mini you don't keep the same/more functionality...
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Do you want them drawn? I kinda like the photo's too!
But so basically you want someone to create 8 images in the same style, corresponding to the themes(homepage, products page (Ultimaker 2 Family hero image), Ultimaker 2 page, Ultimaker Original page, materials page and software page)?
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I don't really get why you would want a smaller one. IMO the Original with the printed handle is portable enough. I take it by bike and train to the ultievenings
But I'm curious to see it IRL, it is said to be really cute!
Also, the Mechanical Engineering lab dumped their makerbots and is ordering UM2's also 
A Coffee between friends :-) How was Your Day ?
in Coffee corner
Posted
Just two short questions for you UMO owners out there:
http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2 makes me believe the bowden tube lock goes in the wood directly, while https://shop.ultimaker.com/Content/Images/Articles/Um-1_11.png shows a black injection mold piece:
Since I don't have the black part(but do have the lock thanks to Daid!!!) Can it actually go in the wood like that
? I've never seen that in any UMO.
Also, I noticed the PEEK in the store is quite dark, and mine is quite light, has there been a change in PEEK since like 1-2 years?