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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. For dual extruders you need UMO, not UMO+ . You would need to get the UMO HBK too, which would mean you have both power supplies so could run all at the same time. This is what i have done, no problems with dual and heated bed.
  2. I love this mod and would like to give it a go. Would you be prepared to share the STLs and BOM?
  3. Didn't know that! Its freezing here, so I could maybe have left it. Gets hot in summer though. Ultimately, better to be safe than sorry though I guess
  4. Im looking to do this too...will have to buy another fan from ultimata, can't find 19v fans anywhere
  5. Hi, Yes this will cause a problem with the extruder. The stepper driver will overheat, and cause skipping, or may damage it irreparably and will have to replace. Fear not however, the exact same think happened to me. I went out and bought some silver thermal glue: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002HT1X9O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 It's worked perfectly, and have plenty more just in-case it happens again.
  6. If the UMO fan definitely 19v? I can't find 19v fans anywhere, even on taboo (chinese site), where all things that are made in china can be gotten.
  7. Thanks for the reply. 2 x 12v? Did it run OK?
  8. Hi guys, I'm looking to implement a dual fan/shroud setup on UMO. Can anyone advise the fan voltage I should get? I guess wiring in series/parallel would open up options. Is it 19v? Thanks, Anthony
  9. Well...turns out I'm a noob idiot! I thought infill speed was a % multiplier of print speed, didn't realise it's a mm/s setting! I had it set to 130!! So gr5, you were absolutely right, and about top layer being done at same speed as infill. Thanks for the help guys, sorry for my retardedness!
  10. I relocated from Singapore, so I had it shipped to there in the kit, then moved to china so it got shipped with all out stuff here...then I built it! I won't talk about after-sales in here, i'm going to give them a little more time...
  11. Guys, to echo drayson, thanks for the help. Understand now and had first successful dual extrude merge! Thanks!
  12. genuine....i might be in China, but i'm western and buy real stuff!
  13. Its a UMO with HBK (but thats broken) and dual extruders.
  14. Yea its two parts its happened on now. the walls were printed after the main piece, and they came out fine so struggling with the concept of a blocked nozzle. Will atomic it just incase though. I also printed some nano props yesterday, and had no such problems. However these don't really have a 'top' to them, so maybe thats why the problem didn't manifest itself with those.
  15. How does cura decide where to mate/merge the parts? I was thinking it would match shapes and merge the faces?
  16. I too have been wondering about this. I designed a cover for a tin for the wife. It was a cover with 'sugar' cut out of it. I made the same profile 'sugar' in a separate drawing as she wanted the writing in a different colour. I bought both pieces into cura, hit the merge button, and it merged them in the most illogical retarded way, i'll post pics tonight. Perhaps someone can see what i'm doing wrong.
  17. Thanks fore reply gr5. 1. The layer view in cura showed it as being there. 2. the walls are perfect, i'll get a better photo tonight. 2a. I do have infill set to 130%, but the infill was coming out fine, the missing layers are the top/shell. 2b. Print speed was (i think but have to confirm on gcode), 80mm/s, 0.2 resolution, 212 nozzle temp. Taking a look at that graph, i'd expect to see underextruded infill, but its not. Its the slower layer that is (possibly) underextruded. Take with the the fact the walls are absolutely fine, its very odd. The top layer of the wall is also showing the same problem (although on much small scale).
  18. I don't think its really required for UMO is it, as is much of a muchness. UMO is easy load, there are also no temperature issues as the stepper is separate. I was under the impression for flex need a little oil in the bowden, or direct drive conversion if you run into issues. Note, i may be wrong about this as i'm relatively new to printing!
  19. Hi anon, It looks to be trying to fill in, but they were over night prints so didnt watch it. I'll check that out when I get home. Ill also post the gcode, someone might be able to see the error in that. Thanks for the reply
  20. Hey guys, The top layer of models seems to be incomplete. As per below pic, in stepped models walls are fine, just the top layers. Any ideas? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/image/11762-top-infill-missing/ Sorry can't embed pic as on iPhone. Mods if this is in wrong section please can you move. It's so frustrating, can't produce any prints properly, and have to scrap the ones above too now! Any help much appreciated. Thanks
  21. So Having had his on for a few days, I've decided I don't like it. Its great at what its supposed to do....but its a pain for every day maintenance and activates. I like to be able to see the print as its printing incase of any problems, certainly at the beginning. This shroud covers the nozzle area so can't see whats going on. Secondly, levelling the bed is tricky as again, can't see the nozzles properly. I'm giving this one a go instead: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/40mm-fanducts-for-dual-extruder#!comments With this so I can use OE fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:47146 Just trying the left duct out to start off as I don't have another UMO fan. Does anyone know the specs so that I can order another once? Is is 19v? Can I just wire in parallel? Thanks, A
  22. My encoder does the same thing, but not sure i'll bother changing it. If its possible to do physically, let us know.
  23. Now printed in ABS.Its not wraping printing pla with no heated bed, but I suspect the warping occurs when the heated bed is on, and printing the first layer on large objects when no fan on. I could try and print some ABS...the bed reached 112-113 steady. I think that would bugger the shroud though. But I guess we need to see what it can handle. If it does fail, think aluminium variant would be the best bet a la um2.
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