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macua85

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Everything posted by macua85

  1. macua85
    I've not needed to do any atomic pulls, no blockages yet (fingers cross i won't get any more). Not sure on the retraction question...I daren't change anything now its working! I'll get the setup complete and working (with the two heads), then try adjusting reaction settings.
  2. macua85
    Ok, so I don't want to jinx it, but I seem to have a working setup. I was tearing my hair out over it yesterday, and tried one last thing before giving up. The key seemed to be for me, adding a few drops of oil. I pulled the bowden out of the e3d, added two or three drops of oil, and put it back together. I've printed a couple of 2h plus prints so far, and not had a failure. To say i'm happy would be an understatement! This is with PLA by the way, can't see XT being a problem now either. I'll keep updating. Just printed my tool holder, not quite right so tweaked it a bit, and now printing again. Fingers crossed the e3d system is close to being complete! Nylon and PEEK prints coming up!! PS my retraction is also at 2mm
  3. macua85
    Any luck with the e3d ultiarjan? I'm trying again, e3d sent me a new kit, and i got a spare heat break for the no.2 unit. I have updated my design to improve the cooling, and designed the second head to be height adjustable. So, the e3d....I have managed to print a robot, but whenever I try a longer print, I get a blockage still. Its super frustrating as i'm convinced the design is good. I am trying now with a different bowden tube (the other one i was trying had large ID). If that fails, the last thing i'll try before giving up, is a drop of oil in the bowden tube. I'm reluctant to do this as not sure if it will affect the strength of the prints. So close yet so far!
  4. macua85
    I have been on this forum for a while now, not sure when I joined but must be over a year ago. Up until the new forum was released, it was very active. Plenty of new topics and new replies to keep me busy in the mornings. However now, it seems its a day or two between having much to read. Coffee corner for example, and the 'a coffee between friends' thread was always at the top, with the usual contributors having a natter...I guess they have taken a back seat now. So, is it dying? What are the stats telling you Sander? Do you analyse them? Its a shame, and hopefully only short lived. Time will tell though I guess.
  5. macua85
    I'm looking at getting one of these. Do you have any photos of finished prints? What is the dimensional accuracy like of finished prints? Would you recommend it as a second printer?
  6. macua85
    Did it form a 'bulb', in the heat break?
  7. macua85
    Well, I have tried again with the new design. The head and assembly all works well, but i''m still having problems with the e3d v6 getting blocked after a couple of layers. I thing there may be a problem with the heat breaks, as machining marks are clearly visible inside. My theory is that the filament is getting caught on one of these. Its a concern particularly if the parked head is going to be left for a while with not extrusion...the filament sat in the heat break may soften and cause a blockage on the next extrusion attempt. So, i've emailed e3d with the problem, will see what they come back with. The progress I did make however, was to make the print head swap very easy. All wires are now on plugs, so swapping to the experimental setup takes a matter of minutes rather than hours now. Good work on the development guys. I really like the way you have attached the tool storage piece to the frame neotko...I may just have to 'borrow' that idea!
  8. macua85
    Yea the biggest attraction for the v6 is the temperature range. I've got some nylon i'd like to try printing with. Also goes for direct drive so think making a chamber could really help with printing these exotic materials too. Neotko, know what you mean about the bowden issue. I'll give it a go, if it doesn't work out I can always turn the main carriage around and have them stored at the front. Either way, i lose around 30-40mm of print area. I'd really like to reduce that, but to be honest I seldom print anything that uses the full bed. Maybe we need to work on a mechanism that somehow lifts the parked heads out of the way, or swing them to the side or something...complicated though. I'd better get it working as standard first really!
  9. macua85
    The reason for using the back is there is a large area where the head can't print there. Its much of a muchness really I guess, but the heads will be stored above unusable build plate area. Yup dual v6's. I had a problem with them blocking before, but hoping that was down to cooling and this new design fixes it.
  10. macua85
    Well I think this is it for me. I know I've posted some setups i've tried before, but I think this one will work. I've modelled it fully to ensure it all fits. So with mine, the heads are stored at the back of the machine. Now printing the main holder, hopefully I can share some results tomorrow.
  11. macua85
    I just used a variable voltage converter on the main board cooling fan connection, and set it to 12v. This is on all the time as soon as the machine is turned on. I think I got it from readymaderc or hobbyking.
  12. macua85
    Hmm, interesting. Very simple way to do it, the e3d could probably adjust in a similary fashion, by turning the heat break. Do you find it needs adjusting regularly, or just initially?
  13. macua85
    Great work guys, looking really good. Out of interest, Foehnsturm, how did you fix the height adjusting problem of the print heads?
  14. macua85
    Uh ohs...does that mean I have to build custom firmware? I've never managed to do that part before.
  15. macua85
    Hey, thanks for the reply. I am still using the H6 shafts, as the bronze linear bearings seem to have 'worn in' now. I can move printhead as freely as I could on my previous setup, one hand etc. its a curious one, as it appears that all of the pulleys are tight. They certainly are on the h6 shafts as they have some natural grip with the tolerances. I'll mark them as you suggest and see if thats the problem.. If i can't solve it, i'll go back to the belts...but keep the GT2 system. Would it be possible to use the MXL short belts and keep the GT2 long belts, or will I get some step/movement mismatch on the prints? i.e they come out smaller/larger etc than design.
  16. macua85
    So I managed to get it working, the problem was indeed the bearings getting pinched. However, I now face my next problem. The holes are not round when it prints circular items. Any ideas on what could cause this? The old setup printed perfectly round holes.
  17. macua85
    Well, I spent all afternoon on this. So, first problem...the rods i bought are a different size! They are I think h6, 8mm. So the bearings etc take some force to get on. I got past that however. The bronze guide bearings seem ok, still pretty loose. However, on assembling it all with the new xy blocks, its all super stiff...cant move properly. I'm trying to troubleshoot now. If I loosen the 6mm rod points on the XY blocks, it gets much easier to move around. Maybe its an alignment problem on the print head. The old system was maybe more forgiving?
  18. macua85
    Whoa, my robotdigg parts turned up today! 2 days from order to delivery, not bad! Quality looks good, just printing those xy blocks now so I can install.
  19. macua85
    $2us for me...the only perk of living in china
  20. macua85
    Great thanks for the info. I have tried ordering the parts, just waiting for Robotdigg to get back to me. Its a strange web store, check out means sending an email to the owner to verify, at which point they send you an invoice. Looking forward to applying this upgrade. Going for direct drive at the same time too, hopefully see some noticeable improvements.
  21. macua85
    Wow thats quite a difference. Did you have to make any software/firmware changes with this setup?
  22. macua85
    How about printing the parts in Colorfabb XT? It has similar properties to ABS but i've found it much easier to print with. Definitely more heat resistant that PLA. I'm hoping to start up my attempt at this project again soon. Ive decided to swap to direct drive first though, and order the parts to do this so that i don't have to dismantle my UMO hotend. Its too time consuming when I produce and test an iteration that doesn't work!
  23. macua85
    Hey guys, I've got two e3d v6 hotends, 3mm bowden version. I have tried both but find them impossible to use without it blocking. Its completely unreliable compared to the UMO hotend. I have tried with the e3d fan and fan clip. The bowden is pushed all the way in. Any suggestions here? I'm pretty much ready to chuck them away and go back to OEM, and/or get in touch with e3d.
  24. macua85
    Home will cause the z stage to move up. Sounds like stepper wires may be the wrong way around? does the print head move to the front left corner ok? if it doesn't, it may be that the steppers are plugged into the wrong stages on the control board (i.e x is plugged into z or similar).
  25. macua85
    Can use the UMO heater cartridge in the e3d v6 block if that helps. I have done that.
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