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drofnas

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  1. so...I watched your video and ran out to buy the Loctite Ultra Gel. I put it on a test piece and held it together for 1 minute, then let it sit undisturbed for 5 minutes - total negative bond. Total waste of time and money. Maybe you have a different kind of PLA than what I have? I'm curious if you are prepping the surfaces before gluing them together? Do you have an example of what you were trying to glue? Since I've had great results with CA glue, but I also let it sit overnight, since I assume the manufacturer is lying to me when it says "fully cured in X hours". I pre-sand all surface
  2. Yea, I'm also on the "new +feeder works perfectly" band wagon. My printer had been laid up for a few weeks before I upgraded, now it's rock solid.
  3. I started using this combo and it "seems" to be working pretty awesome so far: http://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-151-Insta-Set-Accelerator/dp/B0000DD1QR I've been tossing CA glue on one side, spray the Accelerator on the other side, and pushing the parts together. Few seconds later, ready to move on with my project. I've only used it on a few projects so far, so don't have a ton of experience with the Accelerator yet.
  4. Hmm, there might be a few places that need to be changed, since the official firmware source has it set to 275 (same with TinkerGnomes): Line 166: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L166 But either way, I'll wait on TinkerGnome to do the tweaks, he knows much better than I ;-)
  5. side question, would you be able to do that for me? i have never messed with the firmware... i always messed with the mechanical side of things It looks like it would be as simple as changing the value on line 79 from 250, to your new max temp (275): https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/geek_mode/Marlin/createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py#L79 But since this is the the UM2 firmware, and not the UM2+ one, we will have to wait for the Tinker Gods to shine some light on us.
  6. yay, got mine in and installed. It works SOOOO much better after installing the $500 "UM2+" sticker... the other upgrades are nice too ;-) Might need to make some sort of "lock widget thingy" to keep the feeder open when changing material though, since it does require a good amount of force to keep it open. That's one thing I really liked about the iRoberts Feeder, very easy to change materials. Was also very glad I had one of these cheap little screw driver sets (http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html) when doing this upgrade, since those back 2 screws f
  7. Hmm, I had ordered mine from 3D Universe, but it looks like they are weeks out as well: http://shop3duniverse.com/collections/ultimaker-3d-printers/products/extrusion-upgrade-kit Mine comes in today (where are you UPS DRIVER!!!!!!), but I had ordered it the day it was released. Looks like they didn't quite anticipate how quickly they would be sold out.
  8. This one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k It's based on Korneels, just shorter in height to account for the i2k.
  9. Nope, I was using the original spring at first then switched over to the spring replacement (printed in ColorFabb XT): https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k I hadn't read anywhere to cut the ptfe coupler when I purchased the i2k a few months ago. Maybe I got a bad batch, not sure... but it was the last thing in the path of the filament I could think to change/remove, so it "seemed" to be the root cause of my printing issues.
  10. So for the past month I've been having a TON of under extrusion issues, to the point that I actually bought a new (mini) printer just so I could finish my current project. I've tried replacing my bowden tube, teflon (DUPTEF, then TFM), nozzle (have Olson Block), spring replacement (based on korneels), steel coupler, and even went back to my original fan shroud (had laberns installed), but nothing seemed to work. Then finally on a whim I decided to remove the i2k insulator and put back on the spring and now I'm actually getting successful prints again. Right before I removed it I had tried pus
  11. We should be happy Ultimaker doesn't follow Apples pricing strategy: Cost of Materials + 99% Markup = Almost there
  12. I don't understand all the hate for the price, when I priced it out based on all the spare parts you get, the kit is half the cost of the individual parts: $35 Geared Feeder Motor $20 Geared Feeder $109 Oslon Block Kit (with nozzles) $28 Temp Sensor $31 35W Heater Cartridge $18 PTFE Couple (TFM) $20 Steel Coupler $10 Bowden Tube $18 Fan Shroud $3 Better Bed Clips $6 Collet & Retaining Clip $24 Cooling Fans $15 Print Head Block Set $35 Print Head Cables / Wiring Loom $500 UM 2+ Sticker ??? Rods $877 TOTAL (+ what ever the rods cost) I coul
  13. Nope, it's starts with a "Fab" and ends with a "rikator Mini 1.5". Since I was in the middle of printing parts for the "Mostly Printed CNC" when my UM2 went down for the count. Bought this to finish the job.
  14. I'll just watch the contest from the bleachers, haven't been able to print with my um2 successfully for over a month. Just ordered a full kit, since I would like a working printer again. Can I print my contest entry on my other printer? ;-)
  15. Well, just about everything was tweaked from the original um2 print head; Olson Block pre-installed, dual extrusion path closed up, new heater, new temp sensor, and new fan shroud. You don't have much left from the original after all those upgrades, so why not make it an easy upgrade with a fully assembled print head. Not sure on the shafts though, didn't read anything on that previously.
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