titanoid

To stay positive: Let's always rely on the possibility of a problem to have more than one solution!

What's the internal geometry of your jet nozzles like,swordriff? I found that atomics doesn't work very well with the E3D's. There are nearly always small residues of filament left inside.

Very charming, swordriff! And excellent 'behind the scenes' footage, too

Sorry, hat sich erledigt. Falsche Kategorie ausgewählt... :oops:

Hi Alle! Ich wollte gerade online Karten kaufen für Berlin, aber im Formular gibt es die benötigten Felder Unternehmen, Abteilung, Berufstätigkeit und Website. Ich dachte daß die Show zumindest am dritten Tag für alle offen sei. Ein Irrtum? Wenn nicht, was trägt man dann da ein? Für Hinweise dankbar, Chris

Concerning open material printing and parameter sets: Existing recommended parameters from filament-manufacturers could be implemented into a well-updated software. Some eventually influencing data like room temp could be added too. Another thought, maybe still a little futuristic: Today, a well experienced printer owner knows the needed parameters for the specific geometry of a model. The print will come out well. I read about people in this forum who reached a success rate of 90something percent. In the moment (correct me if I'm wrong), software is able to create quite reliable support structures. I can't see why it should not be able to deep-analyse a model in a way that even considers variable parameters during print, like print speed or temp. In fact, some complex models require exactly this. Sorry for being a bit OT, cause this thread is more about the hardware. Also sorry if I wrote complete bull...dung, as I know nothing about software...

Great overview swordriff! I finally managed to get the brothers out of the block, thanks to gr5 for the drilling tip! Now assembling 3Dsolex (really? I would have liked 'The Olsson Block'. Hail the engineer!) Sorry, am a bit excited. Must. Print. Now.

Yeah, that would be totally wise. But who knows how long I'll have to wait for the new parts... Decisions decisions... I think I'll try drilling holes from the opposite side if the ultrasonic does nothing. As I estimated from Anders' section drawing these holes have to be about 6.5 mm deep, could that be right?

Well, if someone stumbles upon this these days, a warning: The thermal grease will dry and you will eventually hardly be able to release heater and sensor ever again! I'm terribly sorry for that, as I recommended this so much. Chris

This weekend I finally found time to install the new heater block. And ran into major problems. About 4 months ago I applied heat conductive paste on both heater and sensor to get rid of an occurring temp amplitude of +/-10° during prints. That worked perfectly for that issue, details http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6517-um2-temperature-vary/. But as you read this, you might imagine my problem already: The paste dried and converted to a concrete-like super glue... Well not that hard, but friction-locked enough in an already tight place. That stuff (xilence x5 thermal grease) seems to be kind of soluble in alcohol, so I soaked the entire head in it over night. Still nothing that moves. Tomorrow I'll have a try with an ultrasonic bath. If that doesn't work, I must decide to either destroy heater and sensor or nozzle block. Have no spare electronics, but the olsson-block. Still a hard decision... So, suggestions from the almighty crowd?

Aah, another connoisseur! They are cute, aren't they?

Interested! Waited for someone to do this, great work! Did you do a comparison in print quality before/after?

Well, it´s obscene indeed, but it https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt... Very useful in some cases!

Wow, I did not know this surface finish would be possible with ninja flex, great job! What´s this fan shroud again, pm_dude? I really lost the overview... Looks reliable!

So Anders! Do you think you can warm your profs heart for that little dual-thingie that went to space today, for next challenge? (Still curious about the making-of story you mentioned) Edit: Oh, you have already answered in the dual extrusion thread, sorry!

Anders, youre doing such great work with all that research and engineering - and releasing your outcome into the wild, so that others can benefit from that. Thanks a lot! I can hardly wait for holding the block in my hands. They have not been dispatched yet, or did I miss something?

+1 for the space mouse. I use it in Rhino, and when I switch to Cura to see if a model will slice fine, it happens every time that I move the space mouse and think my PC freezed due to no reaction of the model. So, of cause a comfort feature with lower priority, but most welcome for workflow! Thanks Daid`s GF for making him biased! :grin:

Don´t want to tickle sleeping dogs, but did you see http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9122-problem-with-calibration/? Weird... Bad batch of glass plates?

Hi Mastri, welcome! I had a similar problem, in my case the glass plate was not exactly even. I think I saw that one or two times in this forum also. Do you have a chance to check this? Any perfectly flat surface will do, like a laminated table or, well, a window glass. Oh, and if you use a steel ruler or similar, always double check with both sides of the ruler! They´re sometimes not straight as well... In case you find the glass plate a little bent, and if your Um2 is still under warranty, contact the support. They´re not the fastest, but always friendly and helpful. Good luck! Chris

Jupp, hatte genau das gleiche Problem. Hab vom Support ne neue Platte bekommen. War aber schwierig zu fotografieren, ein Baumarkt- Stahlmaß kann durchaus auch schief sein... Viel Glück!

This.

@ N1ckN4m3: Du müßtest Dein Fotoalbum noch auf 'öffentlich' stellen, sonst sieht man nüx... Guck mal im 'Advanced' Tab (Fortgeschritten) nach der Einstellung 'cut off object bottom' (Objekt unten abschneiden). Da sollte 0.0 stehen, sonst 'versinkt' das Objekt in der Bodenplatte.

Schon komisch... Die Einstellungen sehen doch alle ganz super aus. Sehen alle Drucke so aus wie auf dem Bild? Also alle mit Layer 0.15? Wie ist es bei 0.2? Was macht die Spiralize- Funktion, bei 0.15, bei 0.2? Ist bei der Layer- Anzeige in Cura irgendwas komisches zu sehen? Travel- Bewegungen in der Aussenwand? (blaue Linie) Ausserdem kann natürlich die Düse trotz atomic clean noch mit irgendwas blockiert sein. Mit einem dünnen Stück Draht mal vorsichtig von unten stochern, am besten bei warmer Düse. Der Draht sollte min 0.3mm sein und nicht dicker als 0.4. Manche nehmen eine Injektionsnadel aus der Apotheke. Viel Erfolg bei der Fehlersuche! Chris

Hallo! Für die Temperaturschwankungen gibt es anscheinend zwei mögliche Lösungen: Hardwareseitig - Wärmeleitpaste an Heizelement u. Temperaturfühler (an der Nozzle) Softwareseitig - PID- Autotune Ich persönlich bin Fan der ersten Methode, wie Du http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8201-u2-kann-die-temperatur-nicht-konstant-halten/ und http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6517-um2-temperature-vary/ (englisch) unschwer erkennen kannst. Vielleicht sollte ich anfangen, diese Paste zu vertreiben, irgendwie häuft es sich gerade... :wacko: Viel Erfolg und viele Grüsse, Chris

Whoops, terrible misunderstanding here: My problem is already solved, through applying heat conductive paste at heating element and temp sensor in the nozzle block. The print on the right side represents the current state of my printer and, as you can imagine, I´m very very happy with this. I just wanted to take a closer look at the symptoms of this issue visible in the prints. As these symptoms (regular wavy outside walls) are very similar to e.g. z-wobble for the untrained eye. And for noobs like me, before disassembling the z-screw, the issue in this thread should probably be checked first! @mnis, sorry for inconvenience, next time I´ll try to make things clearer and shorter... :oops: Chris