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memory556

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Posts posted by memory556

  1. Hey guys,

    So in my browsing of kickstarted on 3D printing and 3D printers, I came across this project. As I scrolled through it some of the pledge rewards looked familiar...

    @IRobertI is he selling your Labyrinth Gift Box, found here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/labyrinth-gift-box, for $8?

    I'm not sure if this is ok, but if it was my model and some else was selling it, I'd at least want credit.

    Here is the project on Kickstarter:

     

  2. It changes colour when the machine has an error and this is normal.

    Did you try to change the height the fans reach full? So they come on more slowly? Some versions of Cura have it set to 0.5mm this can make it very fast for them to reach if the object is small. You could make it 2mm or even higher.

     

    Yes I did that. And I believe that that did it. I've had a print going for the past 3-4 hours and it's looking amazing!!!! Thank you everyone, @labern @gr5 @bob-hepple, for all your help! I really appreciate everything!

  3. Your printer should be able to tell you what version is has - it's in one of the menus.

    The marlin version (marlin is the firmware) matches the version number of the Cura that contains it.  You can get older versions of cura at the same place you get cura - there is an "see all versions" link.  Start here:

    software.ultimaker.com

    Cura doesn't overwrite other versions so you can install 5 different versions of Cura and run them all at once or one at a time or whatever.  They are treated as separate installations of *different* products.

    Hook up a USB cable to the printer to update the firmware.  The version you have now is probably fine as long as it isn't version 14.12 or 14.12.1.

     

    Ya. It's 15.02.1 on my printer and Cura is 15.04.2...

  4. 1) Try to make sure the shroud is blowing on the part and not the nozzle - you don't want it to cool the nozzle or block.  A few tiny pieces of kapton tape may help with this - they can be found at pretty much any electronics soldering station - it's a brownish, yellowish tape.  aka polyimide tape.  It can handle something crazy - I think 600C ?  300C?  I forget but it can be right on the block.

    2) Maybe get a more powerful heater - I sell a 35W heater also.  I haven't had to go this route.

    3) Turn fans on slowly over at least 1mm.  If they come on from 0% to 100% the PID controller panics.

    4) The way this error is actually created is as follows - understanding it helps you fix the problem - basically having the fans come on slowly is probably all you need to do:

     

    You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power):

    Firmware

    Version

    14.09                - does not have the feature

    14.12   oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds

    14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds)

    15.01   jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

     

    So basically it would help to make sure you have firmware 15.01 and not older.  And also bring fans on slowly, lol.

     

    Ok. I'm not sure what the latest version that's out now, but I have it. Where would I get the different firmwares?

     

    Hi

    I really like lay burns check out my Nylon version5a331052e5cb7_FanShroud.thumb.jpg.7be2ab31fad1f23d17262c8c60e9ad98.jpg

     

    Thank you for the image!!! It helps out a ton!

    The issue that I'm having now is that, I can't tell where it's touching. Going off of my XT print it seems to be the right side, based off of Bob's photo. But with my Stratasys print, it's still giving me issues.

    *Update* I know that it is something to do with the fan shroud. The printer works fine without the fan shroud attached. I was able to get a couple layers down. Whereas before I couldn't get an entire layer down.

  5. Alright. So I've been working on upgrading my printer with various items. I've recently added the Olsson Block and recently after I added it I also added a new fan shroud designed by @Labern. I printed it with ColorFabb XT and it turned out great. Pretty soon I came up with an error for the heater. After some asking around on the chat room, and a close inspection of my new hothead and the area around it, I found that that material from the XT had melted and was actually in contact with the heater block. Now, I don't know if this new one will solve the issue, but at school we have 2 Stratasys printers (a Dimension 1200es and a Fortus 450). After I asked my 3D CAD teacher about the issue I asked if I could use one of the Stratasys printers to print a fan shroud, same model from Labern, with a material that could withstand the heat from the nozzle. After a small payment for the material used I now have the same model, and man... It looks AWESOME! So here are some pictures of the old fan shroud (red - ColorFabb XT) and the new one (tan - Stratasys Ultem 9085). If you all want me to keep you all updated on this let me know. It's been a great learning experience!

    Error... :(Sad day

    IMG_2147_zpsvicvghdq.jpg

    Hmm... Issue

    IMG_2177_zps5kyk2ihx.jpg

    IMG_2176_zpsib9wqg7g.jpg

    Comparison

    IMG_2178_zpsm7bswihb.jpg

    Stratasys Ultem 9085 fan shroud

    IMG_2179_zpsmuqjsn5m.jpg

    Installed

    IMG_2180_zpses1s1wlu.jpg

  6. I had this same debate when I was looking into 3D printing back in November and December. I can now say that I couldn't have made a better decision then going with the UM2.

    Now, the big thing is that it's not always a smooth road. This isn't exactly a plug a print printer. I have yet to work with one that is truly a, "plug and print" printer.

    As has been stated earlier, the user community is awesome! Myself and a lot of other users are on a chatroom nearly daily and it's been super helpful when I run into an issue and can talk with them for help. There are so many people who can help you get your printer up to optimal performance. Plus you learn what to do yourself.

    Build area. What are you wanting to print? Do you have your own designs that you're wanting to print or do you just want to print really big objects?

    I hope this helps. Good luck in your decision!

  7. OK heres my latest Atomic Pull method, using much cooler temps, as suggested by GR5, works much better, and every time as well. Vid is only 2mins30 so super short, and no time wasting!

    Still use my pliers though!

     

     

    Super helpful video. Glad to know that I wasn't too far off from doing atomic pulls, but this is a very helpful video. Thank you!

  8. Hey guys.

    I've been looking around the for an answer to this, but haven't found anything. So I have been wondering if anyone has used ColorFabb's carbon fiber filament. http://colorfabb.com/xt-cf20

    The main reason of my curiosity is because ColorFabb states on their website, "A special point of attention is the abrasive nature of the carbon fibers. In general these fibers will accelerate the nozzle-wear of brass nozzles, much faster than unfilled filaments. Therefore we recommend to use nozzle’s from Stainless steel or hardened copper alloys."

    To my knowledge the UM2 has a brass nozzle head (correct me if I'm wrong please). So what would be the options for someone wanting to use one of these?

    Thank you.

    • Like 2
  9. I use Fusion360. I'm a student and can get all of AutoDesk's products for free. I'm also pretty familiar with AutoCAD, and should be CAD certified with it by the end of next semester.

    I love Fusion. I'm also a Mac user and with it being the same layout both on Mac and PC is really helpful. I find it really easy to use, and AutoDesk has some amazing tutorials on Youtube on how to use it. Something that I find unique about Fusion is that it have a standard CAD way to model, and then it also has a sculpt mode. So you have do a lot of the "ball and clay" type of modeling. You can't do everything that a program like ZBrush can do, but it's more then other programs like AutoCAD can do.

    Another thing that I find that it is super helpful is in the Files menu there is a 3D Print button, with that you can have your selected model exported as an STL and then directly imported into your slicer of choice. Although the default is set to AutoDesk's Meshmixer, it's really easy to choose which application you want the model imported to. The only issue that I have with this, is you have to go into the files menu in Cura and select save .gcode unless you want to look for file, "019846273647617384.gcode" on your SD card. Other then that, I find the modeling process and exporting really easy.

    I'd highly recommend it to anyone!

  10. That is a very good point... I didn't think about other things getting into the mix when you destroy your failed prints. But ya, post up the link to the loss of (insert property here) when you reheat it. That'd be interesting to see what people say about this when it comes out.

     

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