danilius
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Posts posted by danilius
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Ooooh, the arty one is gorgeous!
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Brilliant stuff. Do we get to see an action video?
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Glad this is working for you now. I think we can learn an important lesson from this all: stock more than one brand of filament.
Perhaps a corollary of this would be: do not assume that the second roll you purchase from brand x a couple of months after the first will be identical.
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I would also recommend and opaque, low-gloss ABS filament, since in my experience this produces the greatest surface quality, and that's what I use for prototypes that are more show-and-tell than practical.
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Your feeder looks OK, so does the PTFE coupler and the results of the atomic pulls. I had an issue with the I2K washer, and I have since removed it and will wait until swordriff comes up with a coupler made out of military-grade Unobtanium.
Another reason for removing the I2K washer is to reduce the variables involved so we can narrow down the problem as far as possible.
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The inside of the bowl really needs support to print with that degree of overhang.
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If printing a long run of PLA, I heat the bed up to 65C, use a powerful torch so I can see where the glue is going and spread it evenly. Then the bed is good for at least a week's printing. I have never tried kapton tape so have no idea if it's any better.
@ieol2015, I don't think anyone is trying to "push" any technique, we are just sharing our experiences. Everyone should try whatever technique they feel appropriate for their situation. The more info they have, the better informed and more choices they can make.
Bear in mind that some of the people posting have literally thousands of hours of printing under their belts.
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That's nothing short of horrible. I suggest you print two of those, and video it. Then we might be able to see where things go wrong.
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"move material" option.
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Glue stick works perfectly with PLA and ABS. If you ever have a print that won't come off easily after cooling, either stick the build plate in the freezer for a few minutes, or soak it in the sink overnight.
I have printed many kilos of ABS and tried hairspray, two different brands of glue stick and of course the vaunted ABS juice. In my experience ABS juice works really well for PLA, is an absolute must-have for ABS, and works really well for nylon as well.
Applying ABS juice is simple if using an ABS puck - you only need a really thin film.
Removing prints can be pretty hazardous as per my previous post. In the past I have also used the freezer trick, which takes around 15 minutes or so. PLA and ABS come right off once the plate is frozen or really cold. @cloakfield's method seems to be the second-fastest, very rapid (approximately 5 minutes and no elbow grease involved) so that will now be my go-to method until something even faster and lazier comes along. Nylon (specifically Taulmann Bridge) comes off like magic. Once the plate has cooled to around 30C, it simply peels off with the gentlest tug.
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Regular fairy washing up liquid did it for me (the green one), but i assume they are all the same.....get it wet apply it and wash it off in warm water.
then just use a sponge and wipe it off. Zero effort for the lazy
I really have to thank you for that tip, because this morning I was removing a print using my trusty stanley blade scraper and managed to cut myself quite badly. I ended up in hospital and needed several stitches.
When I got back I soaked the buildplate as per your instructions, and after a few minutes the ABS juice came off as a film. No idea if the soap is necessary, so I will give it a whirl with just hot water next time. No more scrapers for me!
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@cloakfield, finally all is revealed! How was the snow done, considering you were using stop motion animation?
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@craftee, would it be possible to make a short video of extruding manually? This might eliminate a problem, or highlight one.
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Once I ran into some intractable problem that I failed to solve, so I reset the printer and deleted the settings from Cura folder, and basically started from scratch. If all else has failed and you have not done this yet, give it a go.
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Well, you need to employ a process of elimination here. If you remove the bowden tube from the head, and feed filament through by hand at 220C, can you get a nice clean extrusion without too much pressure? If you can, it's reasonable to assume that you nozzle is clear.
If that's the case, then the next issue will be the bowden tube itself. Using the menu option to feed filament using the menu wheel, are you able to feed filament through at 220C at a reasonable rate without kickback? You could make a video of that and then we can help you judge if that is a reasonable rate, and take things from there.
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It looks like something that should be printing is not printing, such as some support that does not adhere properly to the surface of a curve, and consequently dribbles plastic everywhere.
What you need to do is check the print whilst it is running against the layer view in Cura, and see if every support is being printed correctly.
Or, you might have a section that is unsupported and not printing of course, and that's causing the dribble everywhere.
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Probably nylon, and of all the nylons Taulmann Bridge is probably the easiest to work with.
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PLA is crystalline, so you can anneal it by baking it at around 65C - 75C for a few hours. This will allow the crystalline structure to regrow, and should sort out the brittleness. There was an interesting discussion here a while ago, scroll down for some interesting references.
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Nice tip, @cloakfield. I use a stanley knife in a blade holder I printed from thingiverse. Scrapes all the leftovers in a couple of minutes. Being inherently lazy, I'm going to give your technique a whirl
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If you upload the STL file, we can all have a look at it and that way we don't have to guess too much
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Here is a tip: when running into problems, print slowly (30mm/s) and sit by the printer and watch what happens. This will usually help to solve a lot of such problems.
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Ouch, that look horrible. Drop the temperature considerably.
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I use Taulman Bridge, and have so far failed to share my findings, so I'm going to make up for that now.
First of all, as @Ignatius pointed out, nylon is aggressively hydrophilic, so I have a kilo of silica beads, which I split into two. One stays with the nylon in a plastic bag, the other is kept dry in order to swap it out when the first lot is wet. I then dry the wet silica in the microwave (2 - 4 minutes until steaming hot, never, ever, ever, ever touch hot silica).
Secondly, I dry the nylon with silica in a plastic bag for at least two hours on a hot radiator.
When printing, nylon will bubble up even if completely dry, because it is very temperature sensitive. So, even though Taulman recommends 242C as a printing temperature, I print as low as 200C. I gauge the temperature by watching the nylon as it is extruded and listening for crackling. If it starts to turn into white foam and crackles, the temp is way too high.
Retractions are fine provided your feeder is really tight, so I use Robert's feeder and tighten the bolt up considerably.
Finally, I simply do not use the fan. When printing really small parts, I print several in one go, and keep them close to each other to reduce dribbling. Both 100 and 200 microns work well with Bridge, provided you up the temperature at 200 microns of course.
Like all filaments, it takes some experimentation to get it producing the results you want.
To get an idea of what you can expect from nylon, here is a part I printed at 100 microns:
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As the dual-nozzle head is now out of question I would hope Ultimaker would offer some upgrade. It seems we will never see that upgrade.
I also bought the Ultimaker for its purported dual-head upgrade but have become resigned to the fact that they pushed the current design to the limits. If you want to maintain the same printable area, then making it dual-head is not going to be practical without a major modification to the overall design.
Bear in mind the the only real goal of Ultimaker, like every viable business, is to make a profit. There is nothing wrong with that - we actually need Ultimaker to make a profit if we want newer, shinier toys to play with. So, it's not in their financial interests to make good in any way on the dual-head story since I don't think it affected sales at all.
It was a lesson learned for them, which is a good thing as well. Now they are far more cautious about announcing anything until they are well and truly ready to go ahead with it. They are a young company, and learning the ropes on the job. Help them to help yourself - come up with a constructive idea and post it here in the forums.
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Average hours per week effective printing
in Coffee corner
Posted
Tends to vary for me, depending on what I'm working on. Right now I'm running a 30 hour print, and I had one running for about 11 hours before that one, and another for 30 hours before that one. That was since Sunday. I also aborted one after three hours, after realising there was a mistake in the design. So, a bit of quiet a week for me.