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    Ultimaker 2
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  1. OK Ultimaker, I ordered my Ultimaker 2 Upgrade kit on 10 March 2016 at my German distributor 3Dmensionals. 3Dmensionals gets info from Ultimaker that at it will last 10 days delivery time. Now i must read it will still last 4 to 6 weeks for delivery! Because I had to pay the invoice of 495€ directly, I am verry angry to have to wait so long and even much longer. Ultimaker should think about a present for our paitent.
  2. www.3Dprinterstore24.de is a really good shop. Really fast support. I bought manny upgrades for my ultimaker there. Maybe you want to try my version of a top cover: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/housingcover-ultimaker-2--3 Last days it was verry hot in Germany! I started to print PLA and heated up my printbed to 60 deg. It was a failure not to remove the top cover. It leeds to clogging nozzle :-( I think it was too hot inside.
  3. I found good news today. E3D offers a new heaterblock for PT100 thermistor. You can find it find it in the shop under spares. In Deutschland kann man das Teil sicher über 3Dprinterstore24 bestellen. Man kann dort auch die Stahldüsen bestellen, obwohl diese im Shop nicht direkt gelistet sind!
  4. Here's another fan Mount design called BLIZZARD. I tried to combine ideas of Spirit and Labern. I'm intressested to hear what you are thinking about. You can find the file on Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fanmount-blizzard-6718ce34-c069-4204-875f-dc0f15989b53
  5. OK I'm no electronic engineer! I can only see two pwm connectors used for fan and led. Am I right that's there no pwm connector left for a servo on the Ultimaker2 mainboard?
  6. I first found the Ultiboard description on GitHub. Now I searched again and found the mainboard documentation. (But my I-Pad can't open it. Trying later on the notebook.) Found coding samples here in the Ultimakerforum: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5188-adding-servo-support-to-an-um1/
  7. I'm actually constructing a new printhead with a dual extruder and a lifting system. Therefore I need a servo. 1. Has the Ultimaker 2 board a free PWM connector? 2. Can I use every RC Servo on these PWM connector? 3. Do I need a special PWM Servo driver? And an additional question because I want to change the fan system. The Ultimaker 2 fans are powered by 12V, arn't they? Thanks for informations, Marc
  8. Here is another concept: I think this one will have some accuracy problems, but it is nice for a brainstorming to find the best solution.
  9. I found a video with a dualextruder like my sketch: I thought it is a relativly simple solution with low mechanical affords. My first sketch based nearly on the length of the UM2 extruder. The accuracy will be better if the distance between bearrings and extruder is shortend. I want to get the dualextruder built in the UM2 and there isn't much space!
  10. There are two main problems with dualextrusion: The two extruders have the same hight to build platform Onzing second extruder Adopting some ideas in this thread I thought about an dualextruderseesaw. Here's a little example how it could look like. Advantages of the dualextruderseesaw: The unused extruder is rotated upwards, so he couldn't crash into workpiece. When the unused extruder is onzing, the material drips on a small platform. The Platform could be extened with a brush at the end, so when the unused extruder is rotated in active position it is cleand. Whats your opinion of this idea?
  11. Here are the results of the german voting ... for printing small parts. With a layer hight of 0,05mm, reducing extrudertemperature to 190°C or lower leads to underextrution. On such small parts the Ultimaker 2 (and I think all other FDM printers) isn't able to get the right pressure on the fillament for such short printing lines and frequent retractions. For this reason I changed the layer hight back to 0,1mm. Now deviation of extruded material doesn't attract attention so much and the firmness of the small cylindrical pins is better. In addition I reduced the acceleration from 3000mm/s² to 2000mm/s² found in the machine settings on the Ultimaker 2. According to these settings I was able to reduce the extrudertemperature to 185°C. Here are some pictures. As you can see there are still small wobbles at the side of the pins, but printing quality is much better. I also added pictures of the printouts in the printer, so you can see the models arn't fully machined. I want to note that the printing quality of the small cylindrical pins was nearly perfect when oriented flat with small support and 0,05mm layer hight. I only had to change orientation because I needed more precession on the latchingtongues. Here are some more pictures of the second object. Now it seems to be functional. I think I only have to fully machined the light strings between the long pin and the wall. To see how the settings work on other objects I tested the Make:rook tower in original size. You can find the model on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/make-rook-2015-3d-printer-shoot-out-sla-test. The stairways are printed fine and the battlement at the top are very sharp. As you can see there are only some issues on the overhang at the lowest spiral. They differ depending on the side. Left side is better the right side. I'm using the original fan of the Ultimaker 2. It's a well known problem depending on dissimilar distances of fans to the nozzle. I'll try another fanduct ... to be continued.
  12. Weitere Infos, Fragen und die Modelldatei findet Ihr unter folgendem Thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9088-printing-verry-small-functional-parts/
  13. The Ultimaker 2 is a great machine and I finished prints with great quality. Now I want to print some verry small but functional parts. Don't know if I can wangle it with my Ultimaker 2? First I want to explain my experience with printing a latchingtongue. Maybe some other users can learn of my failures. You can find the model on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/latchingtongue I started with printing the tongue facing upwards and temprature settings for a normal sized object. Hox I expected and you can see on the left side of the picture it didn't work. Then I went on changing filament to PLA (using Formfutura PLA black with standard printing tempratures between 210°C and 220°C) and printing four latchingtongue objects at one time with 205°C. As you can see in the middle of the image I was able to get much stringing. In this case I decreased temprature to 200°C and increased retraction length to 5,00 mm and retraction speed to 35 mm/s. I additional deactivated the combine option an increased empty running speed to 250 mm/s. A bad idea causing following problems: Empty running speed is too high and tears of some small objects from buildplate. Disabeling combining option was a worse mistake. It intends Cura to do a retraction for every infillline. This leads in a clogged nozzle because the fillament was melted down at the feeder, so the feeder couldn't transport fillament any more. The other retraction settings are too high for Formfutura PLA fillament, which is toweled at feeder and leeds to underextrution. The object orientation wasn't suitable for printing the tounge, which should be used as a spring, because the small layers tend to break. After reducing retraction settings i get the result on the right side of the picture. Now I changed the orientation in Cura and added support material. But you shoudn't use support material along all the object! The support material is melted to strong the tounge even when i use 0,2 mm spacing between support material and the object. I couldn't break of support matirial without destroying the small tounge. I changed orientation a second time and used less support metarial like some bridge pier. I printed four latchingtongues at one time with the following settings: layer hight: 0,05 mm (0,1 mm first layer) layer speed: 15 mm/s extruder temprature: 195°C (210°C first layer) fan speed: 100% starting at second layer shell thickness: 0,8 mm retraction length: 4,5 mm retraction speed: 30 mm/s combining option: on empty running speed: 175 mm/s The result isn't bad at all, but the small pins with planned diameter of 1,6 mm at top and bottom wouldn't be fine enough. As you can see in the pictures the diameter wobbles verry much. Here's an additional object. As you can see the smal parts at the top of the object aren't printed fine. I reduced the extruder temprature to 190°C when when printer reached the layer the object gets small. It leads to underextrution. Using a higher temprature causes stringing between pin and the thin wall. Removing these strings will break the pin (1,6 mm diameter). I hope more experienced useres can help me with some additional hints! Is it possible to print out such small objects on an Ultimaker 2 or have I got to buy a SLA printer like Formlabs Form 1+? Special thanks to Robert for his link http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints. According to his guidance I will try to decrease acceleration and increase layer hight to 0,1 mm. Maybe it will be better? I will post my results.
  14. Ich habe zuletzt einen Abstand von 0,2 mm in Z-Richtung und Objekt eingeplant. In der Modellansicht ist dieser in Cura zu erkennen und auch in der Layeransicht wird diese Lücke auch dargestellt. Wie im Bild zu sehen ist das Stützmaterial dann doch nahezu vollständig mit dem Objekt verschmolzen. (Bei einem Abstand von 0,15 mm ohne weitere Änderungen war zumindest noch eine kleine Mulde zu sehen, das Stützmaterial jedoch trotzdem nicht entfernbar.) Ich bin dann dazu über gegangen, das Stützmaterial nicht mehr über die gesamte Fläche zu planen, sondern nur noch Brückenpfeiler zu verwenden. Damit hat dann alles ganz gut funktioniert, zumindest was das Thema Stützmaterial anbelangt. Die Wandstärke des Stützmaterials konnte ich jedoch noch nicht lösen. Bei 0,45 mm oder 0,55 mm wird von Cura das Stützmaterial nicht imLayerview dargestellt. Erst bei 0,6 mm werden die Stützen auch im Layerview angezeit (wie eine einzelne Linie. Beim Druck fährt der Ultimaker dann aber jede Stütze zweimal ab (z.B. einmal von links nach rechts und dann zurück, bevor er zur nächsten Stütze springt). Daher gehe ich davon aus, dass er mit einer Breite von zwei Linien Druckt. Liegt dies vielleicht an der Einstellung der seitlichen Wandstärke, welche bei mir auf 0,8 mm steht?
  15. Kommt sicherlich auf die Firmware an, bei mir wars das Heizbett (und wenn ich mich richtig erinnere stand bei der Fehlermeldung nichts von "Bed"). Aber ja, die Fehlermeldung klingt sonst eher nach dem Temperatursensor des Extruders. Aber auch hier kann es an der Kabelverbindung liegen. Ich würde auf jeden Fall mal die Steckverbindungen am Druckkopf im Gewebeschlauch und an der Platine prüfen. Meist liegt hier schon das Problem. Letztendlich kann es auch eine andere Stelle der Kabelverbindung wie z.B. ein Kabelbruch sein. Vielleicht liegt es auch einfach nur an der Wärmekopplung des Sensors im Heizblock. Hier kann wie in einem anderen Thread beschrieben mit Wärmeleitpaste nachgeholfen werden. Dies gilt dann mitunter auch für die Heizkartusche. Damit verbessert sich im allgemeinen die Temperatursteuerung des Hotends und hilft die Extrudertemperatur wesentlich stabiler zu halten.
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