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kristoffer

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  1. I deactivated active leveling. Everything is fine now. I don't really see a need for it anyway. There are 3 screws to adjust. Set it and forget it!
  2. Version 1.0

    743 downloads

    Cartoon protein models
  3. So I have problems with the surface quality of my model where the PVA intermediate support touches the PLA model. The layers of PVA overlaps the outer wall of my model, creating tiny lines in my model when i wash the PVA away. The results is like as the PLA model was printed with under extrusion. I need some kind of way to create a distance between the PLA and PVA in the intermediate support X/Y distance.
  4. Ok. So if I just do a manual leveling, and switch off the auto level, then when I print, the printer should not adjust the z axis during the print at all?
  5. I printed this model with orange PLA and with PVA support, but as you can see, i get these layer holes in the lines and a rought surface. This is normally not present while just printing PLA, and I guess it could be the support interface PVA that is overlapping into the model. What setting should I use to make more distance between the PVA and the PLA. Or is it another issue?
  6. Version 1.0

    739 downloads

    Protein model printed in PLA with PVA support on UM3
  7. Is it possible to turn off the automatic leveling, not the initial leveling before printing, but the correctional z-axis adjustments that happens while printing. How can I adjust the nozzle height z-axis setting for the automatic leveling. My nozzle is too close to the bed after automatic leveling and nothing can extrude when it prints. When the print starts, i can adjust the bed screws but soon the screws will be too turned all in. Best regards Kristoffer
  8. I have printed some models with ninjaflex on my UM2. Yesterday i printed a model of a lysozyme molecule, which is probably the most complex printing, since the shape needs a lot of support due to overhang, and the shape is so organic and with tiny details. I print at 220-235 °C depending on the model type and sice, 50 °C bed, from 5-10 mm/s, 0.1 mm layers. 0.8 walls and 0.6 top/bottom. I have swapped the bowden tube with a 1 mm wider ID tube, and don't use any oil. The feeder is Roberts modified feeder. Retraction is a big no-go since any clogs caused by the retraction will just stop the material. If the temperature is too high, the material will carbonize in the hotend and cause a clog, so i would recommend you try to start at 220 °C and go as slow as possible. You should do the atomic method with PLA for cleaning the hotend until the PLA material comes out completely clean, and change the PTFE coupler for a new one before starting. If you begin to clog up in the start, just stop and do the atomic method again until you get a smooth start. Other than that, just go slow and at as low a temperature as possible.
  9. Hi I have 2 UM2 machines, one bought spring 2014 and the second bought autumn 2015. Both have the same firmware but the latest model is printing/moving ~50 % faster than the older. I have reset both printers and checked all settings. The gcode file is the same, and has been tested with the same SD card. I have no idea what causes the problem, but this issues does that I can't print with the same settings. I've also done the extrusion test for the machines, and the older model can print 3 mm3/s fine, but the newer fails the test right away. Both with new nozzles/PTFE couplers (And the iRoberts feeder and spool holder) Any help on how to fix this issue - namely the speed difference.
  10. Have anyone tried surface treatment of Ninjaflex?
  11. I have a 25 Mb stl file model loaded in Cura (15.01-RC3) If I try to use the function "Split object into parts" Cura freezes and becomes non-responsive
  12. The back fan is fine, the lights are fine and everything else. Only the side fans wont work.
  13. Hi I printed a 40 hours print over the weekend that came out fine. I tried to start another print, but noticed that the side fans didn't come on. The speed was at 100 % in the tune menu. I checked the wires and the green connection was broken. I fixed it, but when I tried to check the fans again, there was a noise like a short-circuit and it smelled like that too. I checked the wiring and they are as they should be. Is there a way to check the connections/main board, in case the problem is somewhere I can't see?
  14. Hey Jemma I have had numerous problems with jamming, but replacing the stock feeder with this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two will help a lot. Also print the friction less spool holder. Also - after every print - clean the nozzle using the atomic method.
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