neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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You can print 1.75 with the stock but with many problems on the long run. I changed mine for 1.75 and there are many paths to do it.
You can not change a think and insert a ptfe 3/2mm inside the existing bowden and glue it with special glue for ptfe. Using the ptfe to go through the heat barrel or even inside the nozzle. On the long run ptfe with burn and you will start understruding, filament will flow and burn between the ptfe and the barrel.
You can do the ptfe think glued but change the heat barrel, nozzle and even the hoyend isolator coupler. Then after tweaking the extruder (it need's) I had to do some filling to get a proper grip and changed the delring clip.
There are many roads. I tested (I think) most of them. So far the ptfe 3mm/2mm glued inside the bowden works but It adds extra friction. I changed my bowdens to a ptfe 6/2mm. But it isnt easy to find and also changing the bowden means that there's some changing needed on the clamps that hold the bowden.
It's doable? Yes. It's worth? Well for my it was fun do adapt it. I learned a lot. But I don't think it's worth unless you go double extruders or you really really need 1.75mm filament.
Btw also. Most of the time companies sell 3mm that it's 2.85mm. So maybe you just didn't know this? Just wondering.
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Ultimakers need some beach and vacation too
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The problem it's that sometimes changes from spool to spool. Sometimes I check http://3dfilaprint.com/help/other_premium_filaments.htm
People post their prints and settings and experiences. Not a big database but nice to check sometimes. Mostly I just google.
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Someday stuff like this will be something to remember nostalgically if stuff like this it's well integrated http://owi.storenvy.com/products/10451151-filament-sensor-kit
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I assume you mean three decimals on the imperial range? I think you'd have to pay quite a bit of cash to get three decimals on the metric scale. And it would be overkill as it's very easy to skew the result even at two decimals by putting a bit too much pressure on the filament.
It's an excellent tool to have regardless. Also, the cheap ones can usually be modified to give faster readings and access to the min/max function that is usually hiding in the firmware but has no button.
Indeed. Edited it just after posting :DI got mine on amazon for 40€ or so.
Edit mine was 24€ on amazon
not super but just good enough -
Yes. A caliper with at least 2 decimals. They ain't really expensive and it's a absic tool for some designs.
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That's the idea yes. When the filament difference it's small it's hard to notice but with a 0.05+ difference you really see it. It's always a good idea to do some measures around the filament to make an aproximation.
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I been having this problem this week. The sollution took 2 minutes just by using the caliper on this orange colorfabb pla. It was 1.69 instead of 1.75. Changed info on slicer and all went back to production.
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I am using 2.85 and 3mm without problems. Seems as though my UM2 cannot tell the difference.
So maybe the 3mm filament I use is not really 3mm, maybe 3.1mm ..
I will try more 3.0mm filaments in next days.
Indeed. For example Faberdashery sells '3mm filament' but it's 2.85mm
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I sujest you use cura to 'see' how the slice process your text. It takes error/test to see the minimum size you can print with a 0.4mm nozzle. Also emboss works better than bevel. Just because it's easyer to make a hole of somethig than using a 0.4mm nozzle to make letters. But it's doable
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There's zero designs with pneumatic couplers on youmagine for um2. I would design one first before shopping...
Something I suppose like this but for UM2. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clamp-v3
Btw I was able to adapt the robert feeder by just using a m8 cap tool. But it's a lot of manual work
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The PTFE Isolator coupler inner dia it's 3.2mm, so (I don't have an UM2) but I think you could work with 3mm filament by just changing the bowden tube (one with more dia than the standard one) and designing a clamp for that bowden (using a traditional Pneumatic coupler system for your new bowden dia). It shouldn't by too hard... I think... Specially if you print a |Robert| Feeder and adjust the design to fit that pneumatic m8 screw (I did that on a series of test when I was adapting my UMO+ for 1.75 filament).
And it's nice sometimes to use 16€ on my machine btw, it prints not cool, but it's nice to have that option when you know you are going to throw 2 kilos of pla in prototypes.
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Your design looks nice, I like the way you moved the annoying parts to the sides so you can use the most of the print area.
The problem I think you might find with a tight fit it's the balance of the magnets strength. I mean..
If it's too tight the change movement will need to be slower. You can always simulate a ramp so the head change it's fast and also goes slow when it's near the head change (to try to speed it). The problem I found doing this on my second version was that if the head doesn't just 'flow' to the clamp, there's a friction force that affects the x/y position of the head, that after a few head changes will make the printer to fail to repeat the coordinates, so you will end having a print like a Tower of Pisa. To solve this on the second version, and specially on the third and final version, I had to balance the clamp strength with the 'smooth-ness' of the movement. On my current version (I need to get some time and update my pdf) I changed the x/y slightly so the parked head it's the one that slides to meet the head changer. By doing this I removed any friction on the moving part and I can leave the printer for hours without any x/y fail. That's why I think that even changing the angle of the hangar it might flow out by a series of fast x/y movements. Another advantage by having the hangar like me or ultiarjan it's that the x metal bar does the job of 'pushing' in the parked head before it it's retrieved. By changing the angle you will have to use a metal 'thingy' like the one Foehsturm shows on this page post
In my experience if the head 'hits' the hangar, 1/5 times the x/y will loose alignment. So it's really important to have a smooth slide and to have the parked head on the same position when doing the pickup.
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You rotated the hangar so the clamp astops it from pushing it out. I tryed that. Try to check if the parked head stays in place when printing something that makes the printer 'shake'. On my test the force of the bowden and the angle of the hangar always made it end pushed out.
The head size looks very nice btw
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Indeed simplify3d has everything to make this dual extrusion work. Specially since the last 3.0 version. I'm getting soo sweet prints. Well not sweet but nice since I have a banana rod
but it does the job -
Cura has retraction for dual extruders at least the non-wipeout-style-new-beta
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If you read the info from ultiarjan or my pdf about how to insert the tool change I think you can get the picture of how to do it.
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You can always get the laser cut files and do your own by using one of the many laser cut services online. You could save a lot but if you want it fast that guys ultiarjan said do custom stuff. I asked them for a door for my umo+ and they quoted fast. But isn't cheap
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I can't fully answer this since I have the same. But I almost solved by:
- Aligning the head with a 0.05 gauge feeler.
- Changing the first layer height. For my 0.2 prints I use 0.2 and 120% material. Also 80% material worked
- Slowing down the first layer speed
- Using high quality filament helps
Ofc the easiest sollution it's to use glue/hairspray/etc.
Last week I found one of my shafts woobles so right now I'm not sure if that's the problem (now I have to deal with imakr customer service to get a sollution/replacement/wherever). Anyhow speed and calibration make this better and at least my first layer it's close to perfect without glue on the heated bed (pla).
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On simplify3d there's an option to compensate the material fluctuations. You print with the settings a cube. Meassure and input the difference. Then when you print with that settings you can compensate the output. Ofc it changes with each material/heat/etc. so you need to do it with each material/settings if you want to keep getting accurate prints. But the nozzle and layer height also affect the holes etc. So for your sollution propably it's better to use a drill...
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Faberdashery calls it 3mm but they sell 2.85mm very good quality.
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I think the navigation patterns have change. It's horrible to check forum sections (3 clicks a lots of scrolling on movile) it's something I just don't bother. I just check last posts and because when you enter a post you don't see what section it is... New stuff I can see and read. If it goes beyond that page I will never ever see it.
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The support from polymaker sounds interesting. But until there's a seller in europe I'll wait.
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Ok just another wild idea. Check the extruder and make sure it's thight and clean it with a wire brush. I mean this metal part.
not super but just good enough
Does hardware determine filament size?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Btw tou are on usa. You could even buy it by amazon