neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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I really miss the x/y size of the bed (to change it in machine properties) . The supports on the preview look ok... Nice beta, but for my taste it still has a lot to go. The way the options are customized it's quite the opposite of what I would have design/use, too much scroll/scroll/scroll to change stuff.
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https://ultimaker.com/en/stories/view/16574-the-all-new-cura-with-all-new-features says:
"A dual extrusion feature with a completely new workflow."
Wasn't that going to be in 6months? Also, where it is? ^^?
NEVERMIND. It says future
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I found this video about nozzles/heads really illuminating.
It's long and the audio sucks but there are parts worth watching.-
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With one head you limit the kinds of materials to yust colors. With one head and two 'mouths' you hardly can control for one not to loose filament becuase the gravity. So with the tool head you just remove the problem from the scenario to use different materials and avoiding it leaking over the print area. Also weight. But if you just want multiple colors yeah that can work.
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When I printed abs on my first printer I used to (apart of brim that helps a lot) add a 'mickey' ears to the corners. Also if you can change the design adding holes helps a lot. The more plastic the more tension while cools down. Also using less bottom layers and less infill helps. But in my experience the best was to use bluetape with hotbed and hairspray applied on the blue tape. It's really hard to remove the final print but it's safer than doing it directly over the glass since with big objects with hairspray you risk that the tension it's too hard that can break the cristal. With the blue tape you are safer since it will tear of the tape before damaging your glass. So if everything fails as last resort you can bluetape-hairspray-brim-mickey_ears. But get ready to have patience to pop it out since it will be seriously stuck.
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I pointed you to s3d because it has the option you want. Ofc cura someday will have that too. But to have it 'now' it's your best chance. Also the lastest version added a lot of stuff (that looks like 'inspired' to say the least) that make's it even more cura-friendly. Anyway cura still it's my first choise to print&run. On s3d you must give him a very clean stl and learn how to use the options but when you do, it's worth the money. Specially if you want to do stuff that it's a bit less normal. Like multiprocess, scripting, getting a perfectly clear first layer without scraches. Etcetc
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It's a simple code you can add. If you want that by software buy Simplify3d
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Maybe you can add some gcode
You will need to set it in the start g code.
For example:
G1 Z(number here) // moves bed
G92 Z0 // set this position as 0 for z
Not tested but I think that should work?
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Maybe it needs more cooling? I mean the 5v fan of the um2 maybe uses less amps than the e3d fan? I have no idea :S
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Also is not hard to find at all...
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I got one from mouser, they sent it totally disassembled (it's a bit like a puzzle)
The names to find it are:
806-KPPX-4P
KPPX-4P
4P POWER PLUG
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If you need 230 because you plan to print really fast you need to adjust the first layer heat so it doesn't burn the pla. Since first layer goes slower (to stick) the pla it's staying too much time on the nozzle. You can use Tweak at Z to make the layer 2 go slower and raise the heat gradually. https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Tweak-At-Z-plugin
I use s3d that allows to place different C for each layer and to print 100mm/s at 0.2 I start at 210-215 and then on layer 2 I raise it 5C and so. This way you can have a good slow first layer and avoid pla burnings/brown.
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But fully configurable... Big difference
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You beat me to post that! Soo niceee
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Just a wild idea. Maybe the e3d head needs the air of the dissipated faster with no obstacles like the cables reflecting airflow?
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I would never connect it to the cloud. The first layer control. Removing the extruded filament that it's extruded to clean the nozzle start. It would need to be a different machine with more automated and psedorobotic features to be safely used remotely. And ofc I would not let anyone else but my control it. By gcode it self you can break stuff if you want to. I suppose that stuff could be 'controlled' but if you leave a machine open to others there's always the chance for them to ruin it even not intentionally. Also having an Ultimaker connected by usb it's no use since the usb print can have power fluctuations. So imo thanks but no thanks.
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Well, after almost 1 month the company that I use for the laser parts returned me the pieces because they where not able to 'bend' it. I also tried to find other companies that bend metal and they all say (15 different) that the piece it's too small to make the bends. So... I just did it by myself. Bough a mini anvil, a 1 kilo hammer and with some tricks (I had to use a metal from Ikea I had laying around for the inner zone) now I have 2 (and 5 spare metals to make more) for my 30x30x10 x4 fans setup. Now I need to design a middle part to connect it (piece of cake) and do a few drill holes.
Also, interesting. I had to take out one of the hotends because the peek was broken (it broke months ago when I had to take it out from the original aluminium holder) and two days ago it started leaking because the crack was too severe. But the interesting think it's that I had the chance to check if the hot from all this weeks printing did or didn't deform the pla. And as you can see on the photos it's flawless, not even a bit of heat deformation. So the basic design with the heatbreak film works like a charm.
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I would not expect any dual extrusion support in new cura this year.
From what i hear there will probably be quarterly releases, 1st one being functional but still missing stuff like, print one at a time, machine settings, separation of profiles & machine settings. I think there's plenty basic stuff open for the 2th release.
I've asked for a more public "road map" hopefully we'll get to see something like that soon. So it will be a bit of a wait if you want all features, but it looks to me that it will be worth it
No dual extrusion support for the new Cura is ashame. I modded my printer with the new E3D Chimera dual extruder hot end and it is extraordinarily easy to level the two heads and set the x, y offsets so parts come out clean and nothing gets knocked over on the bed. I was kinda hoping (new Cura) = (old Cura) squared both in terms of power and capability.
You really should share that mod
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Indeed it might. I thought it was just the first layer. Check this post. They talk about many thinks to check/do in that cases. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16428-printing-issue-under-extrusion?page=4#reply-110431
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Gr5 it would be nice to make your post as a sticker somewhere. I covers many many of the current post around the forum.
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Did you clean the glass with window cleaner product? It does make a big difference.
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Blue tape + heated bed does not stick. You can use blue tape with cold bed or bed at 60 with or without glue. Better with glue ofc. I print pla without bluetape at 60C and sticks well. Important to clean the bed after each print if you touch the bed.
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Sorry but to be able to answer we need details. What's that file? What configuration you use? Photos?
If you want to stick it to glass basic stuff about it and many other common stuff:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
Also search on this forum about that. There are many many post about tricks and ways to get a perfect first layer.
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nicee
How to set feedrates for different extruders.
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
It would be nice to also have 2 PIDs on marlin. The idea of both extruders/hotends to be a mirror limits the growth possibilities