neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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Also very intersting for umo+ users so with that heater it might be posible to use 2 heaters withou getting a new power supply...
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Woa also cheaper than the one from ultimaker and better than china options (since it comes with the connector). Very nice!
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I just bough it. I been using the beta for 6 months and I'm quite happy with it. Also better now cheaper than latter x3 price (when they finally add the plugging, etc etc). I just love this software.
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Before giving up on bamboo I tryed 0.8 with 0.23 layers and 50-60mm/s (that's a lot of mm3) with no retraction. I can print wood coconut and even laywood with no problem but bamboo it's something that I have give up. Maybe oiling the filament a-la-oldtimes?
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Vas a tener que dar más pistas. Imagen de cura al menos. Has rotado el atl dentro de cura? Etcetc
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To improve overhangs if you need more speed print on cold plate with bluetape. Or focus an airconditioner with a tube to the fans (I did this for a weird print job it worked but it was too much the trouble).
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When I cleaned mine after my bamboo experience, I used the wire of a metal brush to go in from outside while pushing some clean pla through the bowden. It took a good 5 mins to clean it and after that I did a few atomics and all went back to normal. I also tried with a 0.8mm nozzle (no retractions, highspeed etc) and the block was equally nasty. Probably (at least on my umo+) the peek need a good fan cooling it to make that filament work. I did print woodfill fine and coconut formfutura without any problem, but bamboo it's weird.
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Printing marks? You mean the lines from the head moving? If so use Retract while combing pluging or move to $implify3d...
Also if you mean the marks from the head moving, you might need to check if you have combing 'all' so cura hides as best as he can the marks or use z-hop that will remove that but might add another kind of mark from the head moving up. You must choose what's the best/worse you can use.
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I personally love my UMO+. It prints nicely. I bough it specially for 3 reasons:
- Price (I bough it assembled and still was cheaper)
- I changed my head so it could work with 1.75mm filament
- I bough a different power supply and changed it so I could power 2 hot ends.
And finally
- I upgraded it to two extruders and designed a magnetic head changer based on foehnsturm idea (Link to the post)
This protect has also a version for UM2 by @ultiarjan (Link to his post)
So yeah, even on UM2 you can custom stuff. Both print great (I only can speak about my UMO+) and they have their ins and outs. For example on UMO+ you can use almost any e3dz nozzle from the box but on um2 you need to buy the olsson block (designed by @anders-olsson and sold at 3dsolex.com)
So if you wan't to print great and save some bucks go UMO/UMO+. If you wan't an extra touch of finesse and you can afford it then go UM2.
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Ok another weird theory. It's the room hot? Maybe your machine board steppers are overheating?
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If the settings change doesn't help. Try checking the feeder tension (I think it should be able to pull 2 pounds), clean the feeder with a metal brush to remove any prior filaments (less slippery) and check the bowden. Also try to feed the hotend manually from the feeder to fell the bowden tension. It should 'fell' not hard to push. Better to remove any weird possible think before disassembling stuff.
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Whell that looks like understrusion. There are some thinks you can check. The ptfe coupler, the extruder (cleanning the extruder always helps) but for that speed/pla quality/etc. I would bet on the ptfe coupler.
A) extruder tension not enough
B) ptfe coupler burn and making it hard for filament to go.
There's also more posibilities. @gr5 he might point you to a post about this and he it's an expert on um2.
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I used bottle of air to push the leaked filament with the head hot. But for safety reasons this is something you shouldn't do. But it worked for me. But don't do it
After that it was just a matter of atomic pull and tight the nozzle properly. (Don't overdo or the bozzle/heater block) can suffer.
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What speed are you adjusting? Maybe you ain't on advanced mode. You need to change infill speed to match that speed. Maybe that's the issue.
Also 26 not 25 will make a different pattern in cura. More solid but that's not your issue. It's clearly underextruding. Check that speed.
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Umm just a crazy idea. What if instead of changing the head we could change the bowden. Retract. Load other tube with magnets 3kilo force should be enough for a tight fix. This way the 1 head moves to the bowden clamp it and extrude to clean. Ofc it's a lot of wasted material... Just thinking out loud.
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Ultimaker 4 by foehnsturm! Great potential there
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I use just 3 but I forgot to explain that I use 26% infill. At that infill the pattern changes and the top layers sit nice and clean.
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And to remove the 'scratches' from the nozzle moving on the layer use retract while combing pluging.
For most of the problems you can also read the fantastic guide at:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
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You need more top/bottom layers. Minimum 2. So if you print at 0.1 you need 0.2 top/bottom. For 0.2 use 0.4. For 0.15 use 0.30. With one layer it's almost impossible to get a clean top/bottom
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@neotko so basically the options are (please add or comment);
Cura;
- manual replacing the tool change into the Gcode , basically just 2x a find & replace.
- no options to use different settings for the parts of the print item, let alone for the towers.
- fixed position for primetowers close to X0 Y0 not very logical in our setup.
+ free & opensource
S3D;
+ Easy workflow with toolchange code in the scripting option
+ Separate process/settings for the parts, not for the towers
+ Specific retraction settings for the tool change and per material (different speed for flex)
+ freedom to place primetowers where you want as you can set the "start close to" coordinates for every process
- issue with to less overlap (not on horizontal, only on vertical connections; can be solved in CAD with own design, and maybe by over extruding the outer shell in some cases.
+ Superior layer viewer with tool movement simulation.
For sure I fully trust Cura will get better in the end, and the "toolchange G-code insert" should be a fairly simple plugin but I think i'll be using S3D mostly for now. Basically cura will need to be able to assign processes to different parts of the print and I have no clue if this is currently on the roadmap .. (is there any roadmap ??)
I also tried the New Cura (version june 3) and it looks promising but it also looks like there is still a huge amount of work to do .. the whole GUI is still rudimentary, i'm very curious to see the developers presentation on Monday.
I totally agree with you. The two main thinks I like of cura for this it's that he process the object as one object not 2 separate thinks. This if one print needs big 'brims' can be a bit frustrating, or if the object has too mane open areas with no circular form. Also the Cura ooze wipe works quite nice. Also sometimes with the first layer s3d tries to print it as each object in the stl is, not as a block. Other think I like of cura vs s3d it's that you can feed it with almost any fast stl without worrying much about objects intersecting. S3d it's really far on the stl fix department. For me cura would work just perfectly if the stupid wipe tower would be 2 towers, not just 1 with mixed materials that even with glue it always falls down.
So my main points (btw I totally agree with your points)
Cura:
Good:
- Fast stl process since you can make the stl with almost no need to think about objects intersecting.
- Merge the stls as one object and process it as an object.
- Dual extrusion overlap
- Easyer to think on speed/mm3/s so one can adjust the temperatures with some numbers base (this S3D does it very poorly)
Bad:
- Bad first layer with lines. Retraction while combing it's a must to make quality first layer and even with that sometimes isn't enough.
S3D:
Good:
Everything you said
- Superb quality on first layers.
Bad:
- Also on first layers sometimes the way it prints the brim/skirt can ruin them if you don't use glue.
- Crappy stl repair, very very crappy. Netfabb cloud it's a must when doing fast stl.
- It's a mess to 'move' one dual extrusion object, even worse to align it, when scaling 2 parts sometimes it changes the central point and you need to start over.
- The way to input the print speed and first layer height it's really crap. It need's a pure dimensions input, % isn't good at all. At least for me
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This is the print finished, the one from the cura preview.
Colorfabb leaks more than my cheappla, I need to adjust a bit the retractions, but so far so good, the shield did the job and the whipetower worked flawlessly layer after layer, this time 2h print I left it totally unattended (except the first 5mins to remove the blops of filament from the head and be sure that everything was going ok). Really happy to fell that I can leave the printer 2h without touching it.
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After each tool change, Cura try to prints first the object that's more close to the x/y 0, that's why I use on the screen above that strange walls.
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thanks @dim3nsioneer btw some stuff on the beta look soo neat. great job #curadevelopers
Printing Issue - Under-extrusion
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Usual suspects since at that mm3 you should be able to print that infill speed use to be:
- Ptfe coupler. Check deformations
- Used abs before. Atomic pulls
- Feeder. Check force, spring
- Bowden. Check it's ok, not moving, well inserted.