neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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After a week making stuff for a customer I finally was able to finish the calibration and print something interesting. Dual extruded skateboard with wheels working.
Done in Cura, without wipe or ooze shield. The walls did work perfectly but Cura uses a different hierarchy on the order, so on one extruder the order when super on the other didn't, anyway the walls did the job. I like s3d but I love how Cura prints.
Now I'm gonna change filaments and go with the final version on Colorfabb fluorescent and black.
Cheappla 16€/kilo 205C 1.75mm 55mm/s 0.2 layer
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Retract while combing for Cura fixes that thinks for me.
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On 15.04 you can print infill after shell. On expert mode advanced. For me that removed that effect.
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I fit everything so there's a 'less' than a milimiter of touching the aluminium (abit more) I fit it cold but without real force. Then when hot at 200 I hold the aluminium block and tight the nozzle (but not too much just a bit more). When I used the standard head I used to also hold the peek but that did over the change of 15 nozzles (4different ones a lot of times) I did end killing the alu block (so yeah don't over do it).
Btw did you try to atomic just in case? Just to remove the posibility...
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The curve that the bowden does even slightly it might be your problem. When you feed the filament by hand do you fell any tension before it goes out or it moves easy?
The S curve shows on the filament photo. It might be adding tension.
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My new nozzle is showing promising results to far.
Printing ABS based on Sabic MG94 (which prints really good), it appears to have potential of reaching surface- and overhang quality I have not seen before:
Next up is the same plastic, but with a fair amount of really nasty particles in it.
The nozzle is not made from tungsten carbide by the way, but of something which is equally hard
And I did not claim that "no filament can wear it out", I said claimed "no filament that I am aware of that you can buy" can wear it out.
My homemade filament is a different story, It should cause some wear, but hopefully not at the same rate as it eats brass
Any chance of doing 1.75mm filament versions? I want that nozzle for my umo+ badly
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15.04 let's you choose infill after shell.
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Infill must be understruding. Change infill speed or adjust emperature. Also 99% uses more filament than 100% (weird but true)
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Just a crazy idea. Are you sure that the bowden isn't inverted? I mean, the side that goes to the extruder has a different 'width' and it's a bit more open to allow easier filament load, but the side that goes to the hotend it's just plain 3mm.
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Can I suggest a crazy unrelared idea? How hot it's your room temperature? I had some z problems and weird stepper moves and was just because the room was at 28C + and now with the airconditioner on cooling this spanishsummer it's working just perfect.
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You could try something like this for um2, I just downloaded the step files, and it's easy to do. Like on my design since the wiper only uses x/y forces, you could clamp it on the front.
I do this in two parts and join it with screws, it holds very steady and it's easy place firmly at any z.
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The force it's easy to make it lower just using other material. Taking the metal from a metal brush. Also the wire I'm using it's 0.4mm. I wanted to teat how was the feedback and how easy/hard was to attach and remove. It's firm but it needs less strength on the wire or just using a 0.02 metal from a feeler gauge (it's easy to cut that with scissors). I will do more test with different materials.
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Filament wiper addon. I need to improve it so it's easier to remove without compromising how steady it is.
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Thanks!
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Back of the machine it's nice if you don't use bowden (or you move the extruders to sides/front). The preassure from the bowden on the back push the parked head and it's almost impossible to have it steady from the bowden and the 'shakes' when printing fast small areas. If you use direct drive it should be fine adjusting the hangar I think.
I did loose a lot of time trying to place them there and tryed almost everything (with bowden ofc).
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Yea on my setup, placing a bit of blue tape on the hangar let's you raise 1-2mm the nozzle so it don't hits the bed. I had problems going 3mm but 2mm works. I'm doing a wipe clip, on this photo I was using a wiper blade from a car (3€ on the store) but it's too bulky. Now I'm changing this to use 0.4 silver metal that I have on a roll (it's used to make earrings). But for now I have 'heat' problems on my UMO+ so I need to stop to make room for a fan on the mainboard :( (or maybe it's other think, but noone answered to my post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16256-weird-z-movements)
Anyhow, this it's the beta (bad print cos failed but enough to make a test).
I will try to use this metal:
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Hi,
I'll like someone else opinion. I just was printing some stuff and started to notice that the print was like 'crushed' down. I just printed something 40-50minutes ago and now was doing a larger print with some modifications. The think it's that after each 'z' movement I could hear a Z stepper sound, something I never heard before between layers and that sounds almost like if the Z was moving (I tryed looking very hard at the Z but didn't noticed anything).
My theory it's that the Heat it's doing something with the stepper. Mine it's a UMO+ (v2 board). And here are some photos of what the print was looking like.
This it's the heat that my thermal camera sees (and that's on the bottom of the printed, so that's how hot it's the bottom wood where the board it's.
The second print that failed was done with the same settings as the one before that went perfect.
But just in case here they are:
0.2 height, 65 speed, 50 for inner/outer shell. Infill 26%. PLA cheapblue, 210C. Also I print with 1.75mm filament (I could easily print at 200C) but I forgot to adjust that just because worked on the print before and this it's just a super easy flat think to print.
Should I start looking for some cooling for the lower bottom of my UMO+? I get that electronics get hot and here the room was at 28C so It's perfectly understandable if that's the problem. Maybe the heat it's making the Z motor failing ?
If anyone has the answer, thanks!
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Wow great work!
Cant wait to get a 3rd UM and put it together...
Z offset per nozzle could be done in a plugin. Just watch for T1 changes and insert G92 Z0.01 if you want a 0.01 offset. Then on the next T0 insert a G92 Z0.0 and your back to default height. Or at least it should be something similar to this.
If you use different nozzle size you'll need to change the slicer if that is not yet supported.
The problem it's physically the nozzles will hit the borosilicate/template glass.
Ideally a new glass on top could make a higher Z to have 4mm of margin but I have no idea about how good the heat will go through 2 glasses. Easyer would be to place a different glass but the metal clamps of the bed only give 1cm of margin to make it smaller from the sides. That might work but for real use it might need to remove the metal clamps and use the reprap kind with a smaller glass. Even so that's only 4mm z gain.
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Now I can trully say that I have this fully working. It might be summer but Winter is coming.
Printed at 65mm/s 0.15 layer with supercheap pla. 4h print. Zero errors. Sliced with Cura.
I need to align x/y a bit better but today finally had time to watch it print a long 4h. Totally unattended until the prime tower fells. But even so the print didn't fail.
Printed design:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/robot-ice-winter-is-coming
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I think this might be a good idea. Since when using 2 heads the area where they 'print' it's smaller we could place something to raise the bed (easy Z change) and create 2 wipes attached to the sides of the machine (I think this could be easier on UMO+ since the panel it's open.)
This way also could help to use 2 different nozzles, different Z controlled by software (Simplify3D has a easy Z gcode offset) and might open the way for the original idea of using different tools.
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I would leave travel speed at 150mm. Also 0.6 thickness for 0.04 layer it's a bit overkill. The printing speed it's quite low 20-30 so I suspect that you want the best quality posible. I think the filament marks that you say are the ones when moving from inside the geometry and that it's something you can fix with the plugging retract while combing.
Also 0.06 it's quite good quality and a time saver. A video of the movements that you say will help locate the settings that you can adjust.
Hi! Just to rule out any miscommunication, when I suggested to reduce the speed I referred to the printing speed, not travel speed. Printing speed is the speed your printhead moves at while extruding, traveling speed is the speed it travels at when, for example, crossing a gap (not extruding).
Travel speed at 150mm/s is ok.
@mfknjohn, could you also upload a picture of the model you are trying to print?
Indeed. I mentioned it because on his screenshoot he has lower travel speed to 50mm, and that at that layer height will leave a lot of filament scratch while printing the flat surfaces, specially without the retract while combing pluging.
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I would leave travel speed at 150mm. Also 0.6 thickness for 0.04 layer it's a bit overkill. The printing speed it's quite low 20-30 so I suspect that you want the best quality posible. I think the filament marks that you say are the ones when moving from inside the geometry and that it's something you can fix with the plugging retract while combing.
Also 0.06 it's quite good quality and a time saver. A video of the movements that you say will help locate the settings that you can adjust.
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Well when I broke my transistors they answered in almost 2 weeks and they offered the board v2 for 240-250€ I think. But in 1 day I had the problem located by the kind users of this forum and in 4 days I found a company that soldered new transistors for 40€. My UMO+ have been working non stop since then. I think the speed and spare parts of Ultimaker it's a department that could improve but the best imo about Ultimaker isn't just that the printer but the amazing knowledge and kindness of the users of this forum. That's the best area.
I'm sure you will have a good experience with your new machine but UMO+ (at least I see it that way) let's you have room for improvements and future upgrades that on machines without the source files and the big amount of documentation available would not be possible.
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E ) Spare weird x displacements during printing.
I've seen that before. Looks like a wire crosstalking issue. No real solution yet.
Long ago in page 10 you listed this X displacements. I have this. Until latter today I can't test new things, but how did you solve it? My theory it's that when getting the heads from a lateral move need's a movement that don't really 'hits' the hangar so it's the head the one that move's to the clamp, and when parking the X/Y need's to be really precise so there's no distortion on the clamp and it don't suffers from alignment. Maybe also a mix of speed to lower this ?
Thanks!
A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer
in Third party products & modifications
Posted · Edited by Guest
That's exactly why I have stop using s3d for dual for now. With complex designs since it's working with 2 process each process does not know that an objects exists on the other process. They don't know each other existence so they can't communicate where the holes are or where they touch. Cura understands the objects as a whole not 2 process with different ideas. The 2 process think it's cool, but sometimes it isn't.
I just finished understanding what makes Cura print one or other object first after each tool change. Was so easy with the gcode preview of s3d. Each extruder stl must have it's cleaning tower positioned on a x/y lower than where the object it's. Also the prime-wipe tower must be bolean as one object.
Like this. The s3d preview print animated shows it's printing first the wall/prime before going to do the real print, on all the 250 layers (more or less I don't remember now XD).
Btw the new cura has the dual extrusion removed :(why? Now that I finally have it! @daid please pretty pretty please, super pretty pretty pleassse, add it pleaseee. Btw just saw the cool supports on 15.06! nice beta! Please? Pretty pretty please?... I don't need it improved, just as it it's right now...