neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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- FINAL DESIGN -
(well at least the first working version) There's room for improvement on the software side and it might need accessories bla bla bla
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-original-plus-dual-extrusion-magnetic-head-changer
There's a PDF with 8 pages of instructions and stuff for starting gcode, toolchange, etc etc. Enjoy !
Link to the PDF https://www.youmagine.com/documents/25718/download
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I changed my sequence to fix the movements and it works so seeet. It really never tocuhes the hangar and relies on the magnets doing the job. Also when going to pick the heads instead of a straight movemnt now it's a bit in diagonal so it avoid the margin of error of the parked head. Now I get why foehnsturm used a small metal to push the parked head when moving to the hangar.
I'll focus now on making a clamp for a brush (the ones have metal hairs) so the head gets a nice clean before it goes to the priming box. Also I want to test using a 0.7/0.4 metal cable so the head never push a big blop to the printing area.
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V3 unfinished version uploaded. Also I placed Rhino 4 versions for v2 and v3.
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The trick does work perfectly.
Testing priming boxes. Works fine. Just had a small problem because Simplify3D doesn't take in account that the other process does exists, so it did drop some filament because he though that the area was 'empty'. Dual extruder really needs more intelligent slicers.
This to be really clean just need to change 2 thinks on the configuration.
- Remove the wiping boxes that go in last order
- Remove the tall brim/skirt because when going from skirt-to-skirt Simplify3D does not retract and it almost ruins the print (no biggie).
- I need to make a better X/Y sequence, there's one of the positons that isn't perfect and I had 1 layer that was displaced, but it was fixed with the homming I do between changes, only 1 fail on 67 layers, but that's just means that I need better X/Y sequence.
Enjoy the video and hopefully on sunday I'll upload everything.
Btw this was printed on 0.1 layer at 80-70mm/s (except the first layers ofc) PLA green and blue from formfutura (blue leaks more than green). Also there's a tiny little bit of understrusion on the first layer blue just because the priming boxes where waaaaay too small.
Edit: Printed this model and scaled it 0.5 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/stargate-dual-color-print
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Just before you check any other think. Get the extruder metal prt cleaned with a brush. Sometimes it's just that. There are also chances that the filament it's bigger than 3mm. Or just the tension spring etcetc.
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On pla the v2 design didnt had problems. But it will deform if you use E3D nozzles. I used a bit of blue tape to push a bit the fan holder when it curved. The v3 design (I need to upload it) will deform for sure without xt or a bit of heat insulator film. If you print with it with bed higher than 70C it will probably will deform a lot on the first layers. But so far I only print pla so I didnt test it. Anyway just my 2 cents. Any fan on the standar umo+ head will fail a bit since the head and fan ain't align. On my umo+ magnet head I solved that since I redesigned everything and the air flows in perfect alignment from both sides (but it needs a part of aluminium laser cutted and also since it's for dual head you loss a bit of printing area.
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This is what I mean by using the X s3d hierarchy to use it so it always do a wipe box before touching the print area. Check the image.
Tested with 3 different objects and the gcode preview says it works. I'll pm you the fff file
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Omg mobile version needs a 'edit' button...
One think. My fans only start at 175 (I need to touch them so they start moving). If you fans do this (can happen) just change your gcode so the fans start with a big 210 and then lower it to 175 (or anything you need). At 255 my fans do a lot of air and they start without help at 195.
Oh edit button shows if I rotate the iphone... Ok..
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Omg ffffff lost the entire answer. Thanks new forum... Ok umm
350mAmps it's a lot for a fan. Most fans use 80mA. I'm using now x4 40x40 24v fans to the fan pwm and works nice. But each fan uses 60mAmps. The transistor has a maximum load of 500mA (I know this because I broke mine using a crossflow fan). But I still think that it was a semifaul from the board aince I was well underspecs and the led pwm also had problems from the start. Anyway that's other history.
I bough a connector with cable ready to solder from a portugal electronics shop (via internet). I did plan to save the original one but because the amps etc ain't listed on github or even on the fan sticker (but they didn't forgot to place the ultimaker logo
) I wanted to be safe and got x2 new fans. And yes you just solder them in parallel. UM2 uses x2 12v in 'series' for their fans but that's something a bit unsafe (according to the many posts I saw about this). -
I didn't downloaded it yet. I didn't wanted add in the miz new settings to my config. I'll pass you mine when I get back.
What I did was place the prime box on a far x. S3d seems to make the order in a 'scan' way. First the items on the far x and then it scans down to x 0. It hard to explain for my in english buy I think yoy get the idea. I'll msg you latter with the file
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@ultiarjan I just found this, and on the gcode screen seems to work nice.
Just make 1 process print your part + 1 wipebox and the other process the other part + other wipebox.
I wasn't able to make it print first the box, but it's just so easy it's silly. Solution, place the boxes on a X bigger than the position of the object.
It's so silly I don't know why they don't document this on their web...
I need to test different objects, but it just seems to work. I have 'Optimize start points for fastest printing speed' and Print Islands sequentially without optimization.
I should play more with the stuff but I need to sleep. Try placing the wiping boxes there to see if works for you too.
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Yay it's working! Woohooooo SOOO happpyyyy
I had a bit of x/y problem, I think the movement I catch Extruder 2 (on the left) sometimes the X it's a bit off when going from the side (maybe it's the magnets that move to the clamp and make a 'hit' because when getting it from upside it's just soo smooth).
Anyhow I solved this forever with a simple G28 X / G28 Y when I know that the X/Y it's near, so it's almost no time lost and works like a charm. In the long term (I just finished this today) I need to make a better X when going to pick extruder 2.
I'm going to dance a bit
!Btw, I have almost zero underextrusion from the extruder waiting, finally my 1.75 mod it's paying off, took a lot of time to make 1.75 mod work perfect but omg im sooo happpyyy lalalalalala
Thinks to do:
- Make S3D do the cleaning prime box first (yea that think I said before does not work) I think the only way for now it's to code the priming box, and that can be a pain in the.
- Make a spring holder so the extruders get a good wipe before going to print.
Hopefully this sunday I'll be able to sit down and short the stls + small tutorial to assemble it.
This is my toolchange sequence so far:
{IF NEWTOOL=0}T0 ; FORCE T0 so the it uses X0/Y0 as offsets{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10000 X4.8{IF NEWTOOL=0}G28 X0{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10000 X4.8 Y50 ; Prepare to Park 1 on Left Hangar{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10000 X4.8 Y0 ; Park 0 on Left hangar{IF NEWTOOL=0}G28 Y0{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10000 X177.2 Y0 ; Go Kiss Extruder 0 on Right Hangar{IF NEWTOOL=0}G0 F10000 X177.2 Y50 ; Extruder 0 ready{IF NEWTOOL=1}T0 ; FORCE T0 so the it uses X0/Y0 as offsets{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10000 X177.2 Y50 ; Prepare to park 0 on Right{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10000 X177.2 Y0 ; So long a thanks for all the fish.{IF NEWTOOL=1}G28 Y0{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10000 X4.8 Y0 ; Searching Extruder 1 on Left Hangar{IF NEWTOOL=1}G0 F10000 X4.8 Y50 ; Extruder 1 ready{IF NEWTOOL=1}G28 X0 -
I'll try that too, so far the T0 before the tool code works.
Also I think that this works to make the prime tower to extruder first. Just assign 'Choose start point closest to specific location' and make that x/y point to an area close to the prime tower. I'm gonna be testing stuff all day and tomorrow.
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@ultiarjan Hi.
Calibration;You need to set the XY offset in the slicer you use. Start with a rough estimate, then print calibration pieces to refine.
I started with the D shape at 0.3 layers, and then went to the other one at 0.15 layers.
My curent ofset is: X 44,3 Y-0,9
Where do you set this?
I did set M218 at the start of the gcode
M218 T0 X0 Y0
M218 T1 X-34.83 Y0.15
And the first layer goes super (need's some tunning on the decimals) but.. When it parks extruder 1, it changes the X-Y so I can't reach the parking, because the 0 has change... Maybe I need to force a Toolchange before going to the park... ummm.
EDIT: Solved, just added T0 on the Simplify3D toolchange sequence so the X/Y stay the same for the movements and it's working
Now I need to make a prime tower and get a much better clamp x/y because after 6 layers it's making errors because it hits just a tinny bit. But works
now just needs some software tunning and better alignment. -
The problem with mechanical limit switches is, you can't travel beyond the switches anyways - you'd run into the switch.
Well I though about that but on my ulticontrol if I go to Prepare - Move Z, there I can move the Z passing the endstop, that's why I though this might be done. Also it's just a small 0.17 difference. I'm having a problem with the pen-springs I used because I had to cut them in half the cutted area tends to go though the washer/wood. Yesterday I ordered 4,4mm springs, (also more strong) hopefully this ones will work, I suppose I'll have to tune the springs so the cutted part stay flat against the washers.
Another problem I run into it's that because I have assembled and unassembled this like 15-20 times, the m3 holes on the aluminum peek holder have lost the 'screw' so I need to put a nut to fix the tension. I have 2 spare ones but it takes a good amount of time to prepare them (clean, use a file to clean the inner 11,1mm circle for the peek and then use a M3 tap to make the 2.5mm holes into a m3 screw).
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Since I already placed a few questions on marlin and noone answered I'll try here...
Anyone knows if there's a way to temporally disable the z endstop? I googled and reprap marlins allow the command but isn't listed on ultimaker marlin. Without that I can't fix the z offset (doing relative positioning everytime the head changes it's easy to add this on the tool hange of s3d) but without disabling the endstop it won't be posible to do this without a full layer (raft or alike) at 0.2 at least with the lower extruder... so there's room to adjust the z. The springs well they work but I would really preffer a software fix. Atm I have 0.17 z difference from one to the other.
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So far seems everything works nicely. No need for now for the fff file @ultiarjan Also my profile it's quite different since I'm using 1.75 and my retractions are 2.5mm. Also btw, don't use the extra compensation. Sometimes that (-) by default can make under extrusion because if there's too much retraction on the same area (and S3D love's retraction by default) because it's pulling more than what it's pushing.
Finally I measured the printing area for my mod and it's X 184mm Y 194mm for 1 head. And the area for Dual extrusion will be ... I'm not sure yet XD
The Metal Fans Cap I adapted from the UM2 design for my head (using 30mmx30mm 24v fans it's gonna cost a 30 GBP each (in orders of 4) and they are making it in stainless steel 0.5mm, just like the UM2 original (hopefully it will be a decent quality).
Also I posted some questions on Marlin subforum, noone answered but it seems that internally Marlin allows for M218 Z but with some tweaking, I'm not the best code editor but if I get some free time I'll try to edit some of that code to see if I can make Marlin apply a Z offset for the second extruder. Even now that the springs are working nicely (the laser cut wood fixes a lot of the problems of alignment) but I don't really like to have a spring there since it need's a bit more oversight that it should, and for better quality it should be better a Firmware Z offset than a manual adjustment that can (if not done properly) result on filament leakage.
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I think I remember that once @anders-olsson showed a photo of his um2 box and was just a brilliant cheap plastic box (the ones used to save winter clothes). But I can't seem to find the post...
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Well. It really seems to be z banding. Try cleaning the z rod and put grease. But clean first.
@dim3nsioneer explains the process really nicely on this other post:
https://ultimaker.com/en/troubleshooting/view/15973-z-axis-banding-again
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I connected the fan to the fan pwm. Just connect it in parallel. I bough x2 fans because when I did it I didn't knew that the stock fan was 24v but github says it is so I suppose that you could just get 1 24v. Sorry I didn't upload it yet I'm quinda busy with the magnet head changer.
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40-50 on um2 should work very nice. A photo with light outside might show better if the banding it's real or an artifact of the shell. From the photos the corners seems aligned but it's hard to tell without focus on that area. Make a close up of the edges if you can and one with light outside of the surface.
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My first guess are:
- Z Banding. Z threaded rod might need's cleaning + grease
- Shell thickness isn't a multiplier of the nozzle (unless you use a 0.375 nozzle...)
- Also don't use simple speed setup in Cura. The speed you set only apply to supports and not to each kind of inner-out print layer. Advanced it's the way to go to fine-tuning.
The Z banding might be just because Cura can't do a real shell thickness of a number that isn't a multiplier of the nozzle size. Check the gcode preview to see if the quality it's suffering because of that. Also on advanced you can print perimeters slower, to refine the quality.
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Hi,
Another question for Marlin experts.
I was wondering how to change the Z offset by firmware for my dual extruder bla bla bla.
After googling and reading everywhere, Marlin on Ultimaker offset adjustment only says X & Y as posible adjustments. But after opening the Marlin_main.cpp to check what the M218 code actually does and as far as I can read-code it seems to be ready to use Z offset changes.
#if EXTRUDERS > 1 case 218: // M218 - set hotend offset (in mm), T X Y { if(setTargetedHotend(21){ break; } if(code_seen('X')) { extruder_offset[X_AXIS][tmp_extruder] = code_value(); } if(code_seen('Y')) { extruder_offset[Y_AXIS][tmp_extruder] = code_value(); } #ifdef DUAL_X_CARRIAGE if(code_seen('Z')) { extruder_offset[Z_AXIS][tmp_extruder] = code_value(); } #endifDoes that really means that I could do a M218 T1 Z0.3 (for example) and it should work? I mean, if only 'kick in' if there's DUAL_X_CARRIAGE, but I assume that if I kill that 'if' check, it should just allow it, or there will be more dual_x_carriage checks for this to kickin?
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Hi,
I want to change the 'home' button on prepare on my UMO+ to have a safe home button for my Dual Extrusion Magnet Head Changer setup (DEMHC
! ) I will like to ask to someone with marlin knowledge if the area I need to rewrite on the firmware it's this:
Ultracld.cpp
static void lcd_home(){ enquecommand_P(PSTR("G28")); enquecommand_P(PSTR("M84 X0 Y0"));}I assume I can add as much 'enquecommand_P....' to place my home gcode as I want?. Thanks!
A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer
in Third party products & modifications
Posted · Edited by Guest
Mine yesterday when I was adjusting the load/unload sequence got a magnet loose on the clamp (exactly the one I forgot to scratch...). Until today I can't touch the printer
But before that I had one really weird error. I was printing just fine for 30 layers +/- and then the extruder 1 X shifted 2-3mm, the weird think it's that even with the homing sequence it did keep shifting the layer, the extruder 2 didn't shifted but the other did. So what I'll try to check it's if introducing the homing between changes adds an error (it shouldn't..) or if it's just better to remove the homing and use a gcode x/y alignment and not the M218. Because even when the X shifted for Tool 0, the movements to clamp the head didn't changed... It was really weird.
I been thinking about how to add a 'wipe' for this setup, but the options are a limited. If the head size it's 5mm smaller then the head could pass the cristal of the hotbed and reach the aluminum 'hole' in the end of the machine, there might be a nice place to insert a wipe and the drips would fall on a non printable area. But I don't think I have strength to change all again. The second option could be to change the fancap so they are 'higher' so a small wipe it's placed on the same area (attached to the wood not to the bed ofc), I'm thinking of this because it's easier to change the fan design than the full head. The third option it's a easier mix of the 2. Place a wipe (with the height adjustable to align it with the bed first layers) and move the Z to make the wipe 'reach-able'. But this means that there should be a small portion of the bed unusable, so to avoid this the best should be to place 2 wipes on the end of the machine, attached to the wood and with a height adjustable mechanism, this way the wipes would be on the area that the 2 don't collide so the 2 extruder print area should be intact... Just brainstorming...