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If anyone encounter this problem I found that the heater element wire was touching the back of the metal shroud for the fans. It burnt through the nylon wrapping and was shorting on the shroud. If you are luck not much damage will come to your wires and they will still be insulated. I bent the shroud back so it wasn't touching and now it works fine again. I guess next thing to look at it how to keep the shroud from getting hot/ touching the nozzle.

Okay weird problem here, I removed my olsson heater tip and when I turned my UM2 on to heat it and put the tip back in the lights start flickering and the machine suddenly shuts off then restarts and sits at the home screen. If I try to heat up the nozzle at all it flickers and dies. I can heat up the buildplate no problem but if I set the nozzle even one degree up it flickers and dies. So is the problem most likely a short in the heater element or thermistor?

So at work I am baffled by a problem to bend a flat plate (3mm thick max) using string where the string is encased in the plate. So naturally I 3d printed some plates and attached a string but found as suspected that the plate would only bend when the string had some angle > than a few degrees getting progressively easier to bend approaching normal. This led me to researching how other similar designs accomplish this and ultimately my question. I have seen many pictures but not a very good write up on how the fingers bend in the 3D printed prosthetic, when the string bending them is parallel with the surface. It appears that most of the designs do it this way so the strings aren't all over the place which makes sense. The only way that I can think of is that the fingers are already bent and the string pulls them erect but it appears to work the opposite. So if anyone could shed some light on this I would be grateful.

Okay so I am working on a new print (Yayyy) and for this print I am using PetG which so far is some pretty interesting stuff. It is quite sticky and layer adhesion is bonkers but so far support material is basically apart of the part because of this. So anyway back to the issue I am having, this part has an overhang directly off the bed by about a quarter of an inch and is about the size of a quarter. I have never had any problems with cura support before but it doesn't seem to want to do this very well at all. The back is very rough I managed to see it when it was trying to print this part and it seemed like the print head would go over the area and there wouldn't be enough material going down to really make a line over the support material. Instead it kinda puts some down and its a bit thin, after awhile it will build up enough material and the face looks good but the first 4 or 5 layers are super rough. Which is no good when the piece is only like 8 layers deep for example. So it seems like I would want more flow over the support structure? Is there anyway to do this? I tried slowing the speed down from 50 to 15 to see how that would change anything, it printed a little better but still very rough. I even tried printing supports from the standard 15 to 50% that also helped a little but no cigar. Too bad it won't let me upload the stl on here if anyone wants to try to see if they get a better print just drop your email. Also I am using cura 15.04.5, I dont have simplify3d do you think that would result in better support/ printer commands for more flow or something? I also tried this with ABS for the same result. Print settings: 2 speeds : 50mm/s, 15mm/s Petg 245C 90C 100% infil 100% fan

Well it failed again here I aborted it and took a picture of the top, I think you may be right about the z axis. Also roughly same place as last time.

So I upped the temperature to 240 and that seemed to do the trick for that part, a temporary fix for sure since this abs is supposed to be easily printable at 230. Strangely enough most abs I see now days has moved over to the 230C instead of the 260C. Not sure what is different about it but it works a charm. Anyway I got that part to print out so I started on the second part and curiously enough there was 2 underextruded layers close to where the other parts failed. I added some grease to all the axis and printing out now at 240 hopefully I can finish these parts up before needing the new teflon. Also no errors in X-ray

They aren't shifted layers that was an example of how the layers fall off during the print I just threw it back on top, sorry for the confusion and thanks for the tip.

I am trying to print a fairly long print and it prints beautifully for about a quarter of the way and around the same spot not the same one exactly but within a decent range the print just seems to stop sticking to itself and a layer falls off and starts printing in the air. The model stays on the print bed but a little section will come loose and fall away. I am pretty stumped here. I am assuming this would be most likely due to underextrusion? It is weird though because no other part of the print is underextruded at all. Any ideas? I am using ic3d abs (pretty great stuff) and slurry. (0.1mm z) and 230*C I checked the teflon coupler and it was looking pretty bad, I didn't have a spare (not sure where I can even buy them) so I chopped off part of the end and sanded it flat and it seems to be fine

I have been using Cura for awhile now and I have always had to open Cura and then load in my prints, I tried figuring out how to get the file association to work with .stl but it doesn't seem to like it very much. I just reinstalled Cura to select the associate stl file types but still no dice. Anyone have any tips?

Hey I mainly print in ABS, this is the most annoying problem ever. ABS slurry is a really easy but messy option that works amazing. You just take some scrap pieces and mix it with some acetone(if you don't have acetone, get some and try out smoothing it is awesome!). There are plenty of guides on youtube so no need to go too in depth here. Also you can invest in different build plates, I've read about build plates that are really awesome and can sanded so that they can be reused a lot. Check it out here, http://printinz.com/printer-plates/ Personally I use BuildTak, it is a black sticker you lay down on top of your glass build plate that helps adhesion a ton. If you dont mixing slurry and having a bunch of little flakes of abs and crap all around I would start with that, since the only reason I use the buildtak is that it is easy and mess free, makes it like printing with PLA. You just print with a brim and relevel your bed and it will stick everytime. It wont last forever but it lasts for a good bit I think. It comes with 3 sheets for $40 and they say the sheet should last for atleast 60 prints, which is a lot. I'll try to follow this up with a video. The bed is 9"by 10" btw.

I think it would be easier just to paint it?

Let me know how loud your fan is and if you have any under extrusion issues, a great way to test your printer is this test http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

You shouldn't post links that lead to your referral on here.

My bed is pretty much perfect, never had a problem with adhesion and everything seems to be very flat. I reprinted Marvin at 50% speed, had a lot of trouble bridging this slow you can see it in the hole on the top, printed around 205c. I use the filament that came with the um2, tried temps from 205 to 230, all give random under extrusion or other problems.