avogra
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Posts posted by avogra
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In addition to shrinking, you have another effect when printing holes: the hot PLA has a somewhat rubbery consistency. On the inside of a hole, it will slightly contract while still molten. on the outside this isn't possible, because usually there is already an inner perimeter in place.
Is it tight over the entire length of the tube? The first layers usually get squished onto the glas and therefore the PLA might build what is called an elephants foot.
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The Ultimaker Firmware is based on Marlin, which is derived from GRBL like most of the sub-10'000$ 3D printers out there. GRBL doesn't support circular motion because it is highly optimized to run fast on 8bit Atmel Microcontrollers.
At the same time, the widely used STL format contains only triangles. That means there are no curved surfaces that could be translated into G2/G3 instructions.
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im not at home, think the parameter is called initial layer height on the advanced tab
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to me it looks like still a bit too much distance, but its hard to see. i usually use 0.2mm first layer, which gives a little nicer bottom surface compared to 0.3mm if leveling is good. Apart from that it looks much nicer than my stock UM2
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Maybe it is slightly underextruding. Have you checked that the filament diameter matches the diameter dialed into the UM? A micrometer gauge is great to check this.
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Hey @nallath, can you bring clarification into my speculations 2 posts above yours? That would give some rest to my confused mind
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@yellowshark, I understand that USB printing does not transfer the gcode once and then starts printing, but it has to continuously provide the next instructions as soon as the UM2 has executed the previous ones. The microcontroller has only a small internal buffer of maybe 200 instructions onboard.
But I get the feeling, that might be a misunderstanding on my side
Another issue: Once when I removed the USB cord from the running UM2 after a firmware update, it did a complete reset. That seems to be a known flaw of the electronics board but can be avoided easily.
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I don't see that printing over usb has a relevant benefit. on the other hand, a single hiccup wrong keypress can ruin a print.
How can a "keypress" ruin a print? Where would you press the key?
(oh, I left out the "or" between hiccup and wrong keypress.) I thought of all those things that can block your pc for a short moment. Maybe you start something that demands admin rights and the UAC dialog blocks your system. I have an AV receiver and a beamer connected to my pc. Whenever I turn the beamer on, the PC blacks out for a moment as it detects the beamer as a new monitor. I didn't try, but I could imagine, those events might interrupt the transmission for a moment and then the print is ruined.
I have to admit, I never tried it and might be completely wrong.
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I don't see that printing over usb has a relevant benefit. on the other hand, a single hiccup wrong keypress can ruin a print, rendering hours and meters of filament useless. so in my opinion sdcard is a musthave, usb might be convient for some.
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What the others said and:
- super silent ( UM2 more than UMO), important if you want to sleep in the same appartment while printing
- up to now, ultimaker has always provided upgrade kits for all older machines to be at the latest technology -> future proof (without guarantee)
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is the bronzefill abrasive? i heard for pla based filament, a brass nozzle is the best choice, due to friction.
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Ich war gestern auf der Make Munich 2016 und fands ganz nett. Die haben nen 1 Kubikmeter Drucker mit dem sie nen ganzen Beistelltisch gedruckt haben. War für mich auch mal die erste Gelegenheit ein paar andere Drucker live zu sehen. Die Hexas haben schon einen ganz eigenen Charm. Und wo ich echt etwas schlucken musste waren die Craftbot plus aus Ungarn. Die haben da live einen Voronoi-Teddy gedruckt, den bekomm ich mit meinem Stock-UM2 so garantiert nicht hin, und das für 1000€ :( Sehr spannend fand ich auch das Filament von 3dk.berlin, die haben echt superschöne Farben (über 80) und auch auf kleineren Rollen.
War sonst noch jemand da?
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Bis jetzt hält sich das Interesse ja in Grenzen, schade :(
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Seit ich die Alu-Platte von der Sammelbestellung aus einem anderen Thread habe, hätte ich so gut wie keine Probleme mehr mit dem Haften. Drucke fast nur colorfabb XT.
XT? Das hier ist der nGen Thread.
Hat jemand Interesse an 1 eingeschweißter und/oder 1 fast voller nGen 2.2Kg Rolle?
Ich gehe zurück zu PLA/PHA. Es funktioniert zwar aber für mich nicht so zuverlässig wie das PLA/PHA, mit dem ich vorher die ganzen Jahre gearbeitet und Erfahrungen gesammelt habe.
Ich würds zumindest gern mal ausprobiern, es gibt ja noch keine samples von colorfabb oder? Wir könnten die Rolle(n) aufteilen. Wenn genug interesse besteht würd ich mich drum kümmern. Ist jemand dabei? Und welche Farben hast du?
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also mein UM2 hat von Anfang an ganz wunderbar gedruckt. Schichtdicke habe noch nie kleiner 0.06 probiert. Für den ersten Test schließe ich mich an die 0.1mm an
Eine zu kleine Schichtdicke kann besonders bei kleinen Teilen sehr wohl Probleme verursachen, da dann evtl. der Kunststoff nicht mehr ausreichend abkühlen kann und wenn dann kaum neuer Kunststoff aufgetragen wird, werden die dieselben Schichten immer wieder verflüssigt.Auf dem Screenshot sieht man leider nicht viel, spannender wäre eine der mittleren Schichten.
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I browse forums almost exclusively on my ipad and use the "open in new tab" a lot. Lets me close the tab after reading and be back where I started from with one click and without reload.
I find I can not do that on this forum. No matter what I do, following a link will open that page in the same tab. Is there a setting somewhere that allows me to use the "open in new tab" function without changing the page in the original tab? (I hope you can figure out what I'm trying to describe.)
have the same problem in different browsers on an ipad. what i do as a workaround: hold your finger until the context menu opens. now instead of lifting your finger, first move a bit up or down. it will scroll the page and if you now lift your finger, nothing loads unintentionally.
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Thank you, @SandervG! The web is actually to ensure safety at work. This was the first thing the two of them took care of, when they entered the printer.
most time went into the design of the aviator glasses :PI had a lot of fun making up something! Count me in next time
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ahhhh! sorry for the flag!! not intended and i cant remove it on my mobile!
/edit
oh, seems to be gone now. sorry anyway, @Labern!
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I think 95% of my visits at the forum are for checking, if there is something new I'm interested in. Especially in the morning in the sub, i open the latest threads on the mobile like others read a newspaper. so my way through the forum is: topic-overview -> interesting topics -> close. Nothing else intended.
Another use case is serching for specific info like: what settings did others use for nylon? When I have that info, I'm pleased and leave.
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Think of your boiler, hairdrier (/hot gun), soldering irons which are almost like a nozzle or electric radiators which are almost like a heated bed...
All those devices have to comply with a bunch of regulations. Those regulations are extra strict, if there are metal parts that could be touched. The devices you mentioned are all equipped with ground connections of metal parts, extra isolation and more.
One can certainly modify the heated bed and/or the extruder to meet those regulation. But that means a lot of extra weight, cost in development and compliance testing and quite some production cost. For example, you might have to completely isolate the aluminum heating plate from accidental touching and you have to make sure, that even if this isolation brakes you still can't get shocked. That means a lot of extra material and engineering.
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@Titus, you are supercrazy
love the stretch-bot-mummy-zombie! great stuff! -
hmm :( no idea, my first commit on youmagine, but i guess you do it faster yourself
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i will upload stl and gcode in youmagine, just a second
/edit:
oh, the gcode is for um2, or doesn't that matter?
love the stretch-bot-mummy-zombie! great stuff!
nozzle clears away the printed parts at times while moving
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I have tried most of the colorfabb colors as samples and i think they all print quite nice except for white. some look a bit better, e.g. the transparent ones because you see the lines less than with solid colors. but surface was all the same by the touch.