BrayChristopher

My final set up. More of a "draft guard" than an enclosure. I took an extra large oven bag and cut it open along one edge. I wrapped it around the front, sides and top then used binder clips to hold it in place. The entire back side is open. The electronics underneath can breathe because of the tall feet.

I used the settings that you guys recommended. I tried printing straight on the glass, but that didn't work. For the second attempt I used blue tape. Success! I covered the printer with an extra large oven bag. I cut it open along one edge and binder clipped it to the frame. It is pretty open at the top of the back where the bowden tube is. This stuff did give me a headache. I moved the printer out of the office for the second attempt. I've been spoiled by PLA and XT.

I like that idea. I might have to print some little corners in XT and give it a try.

PLA from 3D Universe 36 hour print with no problems. The color varies a little bit through out the part. It is nice and opaque (which is what I like).

Maybe a magnetic mount?

I wonder how close they can skirt those laws. What if it was designed in such a way that it was just stupidly simple to add on an after market enclosure. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of good enclosure designs out there for the UM2. Moving the motors to the outside or giving them breathing holes. Extending the height of the walls so that you can simply put a piece of plexi on top and on the front. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5663-troublemaker-3d-printer-ultimaker-original-derivative That sort of thing. Don't enclose it, just make it REALLY easy for the user finish the job.

I have some XT now and I have a question about the part cooling fans. Should the cooling fans be ON or OFF...... or somewhere in between. I found this site but it is a little ambiguous about the cooling fans. http://learn.colorfabb.com/print-_xt/ Thanks.

Too true! I wonder if they could fix this with a firmware change. What if the highlighted file name scrolled horizontally if it was too long to fit on the screen? This at least would help with the current generation hardware.

@Labern, one more question. Should the fans be off for the first layer and then turn on to 50% for layers 2+ ? Or Should the fans be on at 50% the whole time?

I guess I should update my firmware. I'm surprised by the fans. I thought it was a no-fan material like ABS. Thanks.

Does anyone know what the recommended settings are for printing Ultimaker brand CPE filament on an ULtimaker 2?

Ok, so I am thinking about trying some materials other than PLA. Specifically I am going to try CPE and XT. It is my understanding that these materials (like ABS) benefit from warmer ambient temps during the print. And no drafts. Also, slow even cooling after the print is done. My plan is to get a BIG plastic bag and just drop it over the entire UM2E. http://flashgamer.com/hardware/comments/heated-build-chamber-on-the-cheap http://www.walmart.com/ip/Ziploc-Heavy-Duty-XL-Big-Bags-4-ct/14089250 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0159D8I38?psc=1 http://www.webstaurantstore.com/24-x-30-kenylon-plastic-oven-bag-10-pack/999PB2430.html I do NOT plan on adding a heater. I am hoping that the heat from the build plate and nozzle will be enough. Now for the questions. Does this plan make any sense? Do I need to be worried about over heating the motors? I really don't want to hack the unit and move the motors to the outside. Should I poke some holes in the top of the bag to let it "breathe" a little. I have the UM2E up on tall feet and I will prop up the bag so that it does enclose the electronics underneath. Thanks in advance for your advice.

@tinkergnome was your out door part doing anything mechanical? or was it just sitting there? Thanks.

http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-filament These guys have free shipping (USA) on orders over $75 http://shop3duniverse.com/ These guys have free shipping (USA) on orders over $100

Done and Done. Thanks so much!

I emailed Ultimaker support and their response was: "I checked in with Ultimaker's materials specialist and he does not recommend CPE for extensive outdoors use. He says that it is fairly UV sensitive. I've attached the MSDS sheets for ABS and PLA. It looks like ABS specifically should not be exposed to sunlight for long periods, so you may have better luck with PLA. PLA is more sensitive to temperature than ABS is, but it looks like it may be less UV reactive." I don't know how to attach PDF's. Anyway I guess I will have to order some XT.

That sucks. I have two more suggestions. Have you taken about the print head to look at the condition of your PTFE coupler? Have you cleaned off the outside surface of the nozzle? I felt like the MakerGeek filament was sticking to the outside of the nozzle more... I assume you are doing Atomic Pulls to clean out the nozzle. Good luck

Acetal? What? I didn't even know that was an option for 3D printing! Looks like I need to build a chamber! And some kind of vent.....hmm....that might be a challenge. Have you used this Acetal filament? I am always worried about filament that says 3mm.

Ok, shifting gears a little bit here. What coupler set up do you recommend for CPE? Should I use the IPM coupler? What about XT?

I need to make a "functional" out door part. Unfortunately the part needs to be black. Because of the heat sensitivity, I am assuming that PLA is out. Does anyone have first hand experience with these materials being used (kept) outdoors year round? ABS CPE XT I am not a fan of changing out PTFE couplers, but at least the CPE filament from FBRC8 comes with a spare coupler. Thanks in advance for the advice.

I need to make a "functional" out door part. I was going to buy some black ABS, but it is out of stock. Do any of you know how the XT stuff performs out doors? Hot, cold, wet, dry, the works. Thanks.

Yay. My 9 hour was successful! The 3D Universe silver is darker than the Ultimaker silver and it is not as shiny. I'm not complaining. These are just random machine components. I will try to post any major successes or failures here.

The MakerGeek PLA needs to print at slightly higher temps. I cranked it up to 220c. I have had a bunch of failed prints with the Maker Geek PLA, but I have also had some good prints. Blah. At some point in the future I might get itchy and try them again. Here is my rant on the subject. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17005-makergeek-filament-versus-ultimaker-brand-filament After the hassles with the MakerGeek filament, I went back to Ultimaker brand filament. After two spools of successful printing...... I was feeling a bit itchy for a deal again, so I am currently trying the PLA filament from 3D Universe. I have made two small prints with the red color and they look great. They are completely opaque. I am in the middle of a 9 hour long print using the silver color. Fingers crossed. I hooked the UM2 up to my PC at work and set up the webcam so I could monitor it and kill it if need be..... too bad I forgot to turn the LED's on. Wamp. On a side note, one of the reasons I am looking for other filament vendors is just larger spools sizes. With larger spools you will have fewer end-of-spool-dead-ends.

OK, lets talk about Retraction versus Vertical Lift. I am using Simplify 3D and it gives me the option to do a Vertical Lift while retracting. You guys mentioned that the I2K insulator helps prevent damage to the PTFE Coupler from direct contact with the Hot End Isolator. But during retraction, hot plastic can be pulled up past the I2K and contact the PTFE Coupler directly. Retraction is used to help prevent stringing and ozzing, right? Especially when crossing open areas, right? So.... Would it be to best to turn off retraction for closed, single body objects? Does retraction have any benefit in these situations? When there are voids to cross, would it make sense to set the retraction distance short and add a vertical lift? I think by default the retraction is set to 4mm. I am learning a lot. Thank you everyone.

Thanks everyone. I will definitely be ordering these parts now. One last question for Swordriff. Why not make the whole coupler out Vespel / Tecasint? Would it be too cost prohibitive? Or is difficlut to manufacture that material into the shape needed. Just curious. Ok I lied, I have another question. It looks like there is also a IPM Coupler that better suited for printing ABS. Do you guys use the I2K chip with the IPM Coupler or do you use the IPM coupler by itself? I would be totally cool with having to change out the couplers when printing different materials.....IF changing out the coupler wasn't a pain. Has anybody tried do design a printer head housing that makes changing out the coupler easier? I looked but I couldn't find one. I know that the Olsson design makes changing the tip easier but I don't think it does anything for the coupler? Is this correct?