BrayChristopher

That thing is really small. First, I would rotate it so that all of the support material in on the least important side. Then I would raise it off the bed so that the entire part is suspended in the air. Let it ride on the support material. I will try printing this tonight. You might need to print 2 or three at a time to make sure that the top doesn't over heat.

I hope the new parts are reverse compatible.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16752-filament-database http://3dfilaprint.com/...remium_filaments.htm http://www.3dsettings.net/fr/ http://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17528-cpe One tip for keeping your bed level is to be PATIENT. Don't wrench parts off the build plate or use a "chisel". Just wait. Aim a desk fan at it. Go do something else. When it is ready to come off, it will pop off with the slightest touch.

As with everything, it depends. My understanding is that if you are printing below a certain temp, it will last indefinitely. But if you go above a certain point it starts to degrade. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/12805-lifetime-of-your-ptfe-coupler-poll#featured https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17587-dont-throw-away-your-old-um2-ptfe-coupler https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17279-i2k-insulator-duptef-couplers Read through these.

If you are going tear it down anyway, you might want to think about doing upgrades/maintenance while you have it apart. Check the PTFE Coupler, it might need to be replaced. I had a nozzle clog once that wasn't a nozzle clog. The filament was jammed in the worn out PTFE coupler. https://ultimaker.com/en/support/250-disassembly Look into buying an I2K Insulator. This should make the PTFE coupler last longer. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17279-i2k-insulator-duptef-couplers Look into upgrading to the Olsson heater block. This will make clearing nozzle clogs easier, but it won't help with PTFE coupler clogs. Be careful overheating PLA. It might "caramelize" it and make it worse.

It is a pain in the butt. be prepared. Definitely use the blue tape to hold the housing together. Look into buying an I2K Insulator. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17279-i2k-insulator-duptef-couplers

I also use PLA from 3D Universe. I run it at 210C. I have had pretty great success with it. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17420-looking-for-a-reliable-low-cost-filament-supplier?page=2#reply-120349 My understanding that that you do NOT want to cover the printer when printing PLA. PLA does not require the elevated temps to prevent warping. Also, I have read that enclosing the chamber can make the feeder motor get hot. This heat then travels through the shaft to the knurled thing that grabs the filament. This can cause problems because PLA has a lower melt temp, so it might start to soften the PLA.

My UM2E has the same "black dust" on the motors. I also assume it is from the timing belts slowly wearing. The machine has about 1000 hours of print time on it so far.

Have you checked the PTFE isolator coupler yet? If it is deformed and brown it could be squeezing the filament too tight. Do you hear clicking from the feeder motor when it prints?

Same here. My problem is waiting that long.... I am so impatient! I should have bought a second glass build plate when I bought the UM2. Also, taking the glass off and on still requires me to "wobble" the build platform more than I would like. I am afraid that it will come out of level. I might actually use the dreaded binder clips to make swapping the glass easier.

Do you pull the part off the glass while it is still warm?

So I am probably going to need to order a replacement glass build plate soon. Little chunks are starting to come out of it. I didn't even know glass could do that. I think it is mainly from being too impatient and removing prints too early. Anyway, has anybody had extensive experience with other build plate materials? I don't have any real issues with the glass bed, but sooner or later it is going to break. For the most part I have printed directly on the glass. I use helper disks to keep corners down, I used a little glue stick when printing XT. And I did use blue tape when printing IGUS. (I have no real desire to ever print ABS). Here are all of the options I could find: - Heated Glass - PEI Tape - Zebra Plate - Build Tak - Blue Tape - Gecko Tek - Flex 3D What ever I do next, I plan to get two of them so that I can quick-swap the build plate.

I was dumb enough to try it in the office and it gave me a raging headache.

I get some ugly stringing between towers/islands. What retraction settings do you use for XT? (I am using S3D) - Retraction - Wipe - Vertical Lift Thanks.

Yeah. I've got my eye on these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fanmount-blizzard-6718ce34-c069-4204-875f-dc0f15989b53 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fan-mount-um2-olsson-block https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-shroud https://www.youmagine.com/designs/support-ventilo-pour-olsson-block-nouvelle-piece-centrale My criteria: - The fan mount should print well without support material. - It should not be any bigger than the original fan mount. Some of the designs out there are larger and require further modifications to make sure that they don't "crash" when approaching the extreme edges of the build area. - It needs to "cover" the heater block to prevent temperature errors due to airflow on the heater block. - It needs to have strong mounting tabs. I printed one a while ago and the tabs snapped off before I had a chance to install it. Any other suggestions?

What is everyone's preferred fan-mount?

This will be great for new customers. Just being able to easily clean nozzles will be great.

For reference. I measure 9mm in the back and 7mm on the side.

The rear fan duct by Jamezracer closes off the small opening in the bottom of the head assembly where the wires exit. - Jamezracer made little notches in the bottom plastic part of the bearing housing to let the wires out. - Izzy made a new version of the bottom plastic part with access ports for the wires to I'm trying to find a slightly less invasive option. I like the idea of the rear fan duct, but if it is going to get too involved, I can live with out it.

How bad of an idea would it be to run all the wiring "outside" of the head? I am thinking of making a little guide part that hangs on the two rear thumb screws. Our UM2E is a work machine, so I am hesitant to "hack" it too much. I think I will try to queue up several "head" upgrades (Rear Fan Duct, Rear Cable Guide, Olsson Block, Side Fan Ducts), and do them all at once.

What kind of filament are you using? I highly recommend getting yourself a free-spinning spool holder. A lot of my extruder problems went away after that. There are a TON of designs on Youmagine and Thingiverse. Also I recommend putting the spool "below" the UM2 if possible. A $10 lazy-susan on the table or floor is another alternative. I would put some kind of weight on the spool so that it rotates instead of being pulled off the lazy-suzan. As for the other 39 here are some of the top things I have had personal frustrations with. - Make sure the nozzle is nice and clean. Cold pulls or atomic pulls. - Check the PTFE coupler. Warning, it is a pain. - Check your filament diameters - If you are using something other than Ultimaker filament, try going back to Ultimaker filament and see if you are having the same issues. All filaments act a bit different. Some are not worth the pain. - I would say, double check your print settings, but if something there was off, your whole print would probably be junk. - What slicer are you using? Can you preview by layer. Might want to double check and make sure these artifacts aren't a slicer glitch.

28 hour XT print. My camera is crap, but any idea why the honeycomb infill looks more like circles? When I print PLA the honeycomb pattern is usually pretty crisp. My first guess was that the speed was set too high, but I had it set to 50mm/sec like the Colorfabb website recommends.

http://gr5.org/store/index.php/um/bowden-tube.html Yes please! Two of them. One in front of the feeder and one behind the feeder. It is redundant, but one will tell you if you filament has run out (or is about to) and the other would catch weird breaks/jams in the bowden line. Ok, maybe just one.

I did almost the same thing. My UM2 sits on a cart. I made a spool holder (with bearings) that attaches to the side of the cart, so the spool holder is below the UM2. Feeder problems gone. I think it is a combination of a lot of things. Straight line from the spool to the feeder. Free spinning bearings. Fewer newby mistakes on my part. Good reliable filament. I had the Robert Feeder all printed out and ready to install, but I haven't had the need to since I move the spool holder. Nice report.

Have you checked/replaced the PTFE coupler? That caused me some jams that were hard to diagnose.