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Tomhe

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Tomhe last won the day on December 7 2017

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About Tomhe

  • Birthday 09/13/1990

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  1. The Ultimaker 3 should only be used up to 280°C, we don't support higher temperatures. Going above 280°C will degrade your silicone flaps really quickly, reducing the reliability of your printhead. The emissions of the printing process also tend to quickly rise when increasing the nozzle temperature, so watch out for VOCs and Ultrafine particles! Especially with PVDF, which should melt at lower temperatures. Printing outside of the printcore specifications could also reduce the lifetime of your printcore. The errors showing up are probably because you are working at the edge of what the heater can handle.
  2. Tomhe

    Cura 3.0 Time Estimate Not Accurate

    The STL file and the gcode are not for the same model, but I do see that both models have high resolutions in the rounded corners. The curaprofile file is not really clear, as you have made your own materials (material = empty_material). In dual extrusion we spend a lot of time making the heatup/cooldown of the idle nozzle happen while the other nozzle was printing. A small change (in standby temperature, heatup speed, cooldown speed, etc) could disrupt this. That would cause the printer to wait between layers, untill the nozzle is heated. This waiting time is (of course) not included in the Cura estimation, as it assumes that the values are tuned so it doesn't have to wait. Back to the rounded corners: using the Cura 3.3 beta and the latest firmware, the estimation may be a lot better (less slowdown on high resolution parts).
  3. Sorry for the very late answer, I've been a bit busy lately. First of all: please watch out with placing non-food objects in your microwave. Your microwave works by heating water, but if there is not enough water in the microwave, it can overheat. It is often recommended to place a glass of water in the corner of the microwave to absorb energy. I know this because I've spend some time microwaving stuff for my graduation research (making Graphene) and just for fun . I believe PLA can become brittle because of multiple reasons. - Polymers have relaxed into a certain state, and alignment (crystallinity) makes it stay in that state. Changing the shape of the filament will break these alignments, reducing the stability. It will take a lot of time for PLA to relax again, as this is a very slow crystallizing material. A higher temperature leads to faster relaxation, which is why annealing (hot water, oven, microwave, etc) changes how the material behaves. - Degradation leads to brittleness. I don't think a measurable amount of hydrolysis will happen at normal storing conditions, but UV damage can make a polymer brittle. Degradation is irreversible damage. This damage is mostly happening on the surface of the material, exactly where you will have the most stresses. - Changing of composition will also lead to changes in the behaviour. But for PLA, I believe the only change will be that some water is absorbed. Absorbing water could make the material slightly softer at first, but it could also be a 'seed' for crystallization, increasing brittleness...
  4. Tomhe

    Ultimaker Cura 3.1 | Stable

    I think this could easily be fixed by changing the temperatures in the slicing settings: make the standby temperature and the initial and final printing temperature the same as the printing temperature. Do this for each extruder, otherwise it will still fail (I often forget this...).
  5. Tomhe

    October 18th 4:30pm (CEST). CURA AMA!

    Heey Cura team! ~ How many people outside of Ultimaker are working on Cura? And how do you decide which contributions from outside Ultimaker are used and which aren't?
  6. Tomhe

    Welcome to Ultimaker Cura 3.0

    I've been playing with this feature already! It was a bit unstable in the beta, kept crashing my Cura. But I like the results now, especially for parts with many holes in the top or bottom surface.
  7. I really need Cura to know if I'm going to print single or dual extrusion on the UM3, Interesting, I would have thought bridge detection and speed/cooling settings for bridging. That would be great, but printing a bottom layer/bridge on top of PVA should be done differently than printing one in the air/on normal supports. We could maybe do this with resolve functions, but it would be great to have a 'smarter' system.
  8. Thanks for the opportunity to do this AMA, I enjoyed it! This will be the last question I answer in this thread, I will be leaving for holidays (but you'll find me back on the forum in around two weeks). I would be interested in an AMA with a member of the Cura Software team, for questions like : - How many people outside of Ultimaker are working on Cura? - How do you decide which contributions from outside Ultimaker are used and which aren't? - Are there any new infill patterns that you would like to create/add? - Are you already getting tired of me breaking your software?
  9. PP, PE, PVC, PS and PET are by far the most used plastics at the moment. So the big focus for recycling plastics is mainly on these materials (although PVC is messy). These are not typical 3D printing materials... And on top of that, 3D printing materials often have additives like pigments, which make recycling even harder. You could recycle plastics yourself by using a filament extruder, but these are expensive. In the Netherlands we have a bag for recyclables that get's picked up or can be dropped off for recycling. I would put PETG and PP prints in the bag, but I know that it's very expensive to recycle plastics and most likely they will be burned for electricity anyway. I think the 3D printing material market has to grow a lot before recycling materials becomes interesting, especially if you compare it to the use of plastics for packaging.
  10. PC can be hard to print well, especially with big overhangs and organic shapes. I like to print mechanical/engineering parts at 0.15mm layer height, because you get details and less warping and cracking. Enclosing the printer and preheating the bed to 110C helps as well. Bridging is hard with PC... Maybe you can increase top/bottom speed a bit and use support interface? Depends a bit on the model shape what would work best (which is the annoying part of making profiles...).
  11. It seems to bond best to Nylon and TPU’s, but with Cura 2.6 bonding to PLA is much more reliable for me as well. CPE is possible as well now we have the Cura 2.6 new features. For me it works best if I first clean the nozzles (outside part), and do a good bed levelling and XY calibration before I do a long/challenging print. What about ASA, my currently favorite material? I haven't looked into ASA yet, but I do know that the lack of of Butadiene makes it more UV stable. From what I understood, it's like ABS but more rigid. Why is it your favorite material? ABS often sticks to PVA while printing the model, and PVA can stick to ABS. But after dissolving the parts often started warping for me. And if the part had a really bad tendency to warp, it warped off the PVA during the print. I think ASA could stick better to PVA due to the chemistry, but I don't know how much it warps.
  12. We want to do this, but we want to implement this in a nice way. Like a toggle in the ‘Recommended’ mode of Cura that just turns the fan lower, the printing temperature up and evens out the speeds. For dimensional accuracy we would also try to compensate using the horizontal expansion, but this is different per material. I’m worried that it would be a lot more work to also do this for dual extrusion... But that would just require to the user to use UM tag materials (UM could tun basic tests). The problem I see, is that low jerk/accel tricks to make all beautiful can/and do, make external errors on curves to compensate the ringing and heavier head of the um3 system. Our profiles are made with our materials, but some of the behavior is specific to the polymer type used. The profiles can be used as a starting point if you want to tune your own materials. The jerk could be increased, as ringing isn't as much as an issue, while you want your curves and corners to be printed precisely.
  13. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:356037 I printed this over half a year before the UM3 was released, finally showing off the capabilities of PVA. The model has really big tolerances (probably because it was designed for another printer), but it still works and has great details in the middle of the ‘ball’. The first and second time I’ve printed it, the print got stolen (I did see one in a picture from our US office), so these two will stay behind a lock:
  14. I've played with PVA on the UM2 with special nozzles, but the feeder has a hard time feeding the material. Olsson block nozzles can easily print PVA, so I recommend doing it on a UM2+ (or at least change out the nozzle). Students at TU Delft already played with this concept:
  15. We want to do this, but we want to implement this in a nice way. Like a toggle in the ‘Recommended’ mode of Cura that just turns the fan lower, the printing temperature up and evens out the speeds. For dimensional accuracy we would also try to compensate using the horizontal expansion, but this is different per material. I’m worried that it would be a lot more work to also do this for dual extrusion...
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