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  1. I can connect using Arduino IDE fine but not Cura... 😕
  2. A little back story. Three and a half years ago, I received my Ultimamer Original+ and the motherboard had a dead E1 port, thanks to the support from people in this thread I managed to get a version of the firmware to move over to E2 and all was well. I received a replacement board from Ultimaker which I never actually swapped over as I had just got the damaged one working. Fast forward to today and I have a weird issue with the Y axis taking leaps every now and then and it's not due to slipping. As some have mentioned it could be a board issue, I've decided to install that replacement board. The Z port is dead! WTF, were these boards known for being flakey? I've moved my Z motor over to the X port and an autohome moves the motor fine so I'm pretty sure we are talking about another dead port. So, now I find myself in the past and trying to edit the firmware but this time to move the control of the Z port to the E2 port. I imagine this too is possible but it might be more editing of the config than before due to different set functionality of the port. If anyone has any comments, suggestions or has done this before then please let me know. I'm not sure if I should start off editing the same file as before from here (although this has been updated also) or to look at a new version of firmware to edit. I've not updated the firmware in the last few years as if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it and also I would have had to edit it every time. TL;DR Ultimaker Original+ Z port dead on motherboard, want to edit firmware to move it to E2.
  3. Can you actually do this? I've had this unit for a few years now and can't remember if I ever connected over USB, but right now I can't I just so happen to have a spare motherboard so have tried this with 2 motherboards, 2 USB cables, 2 PCs (both Windows 10) and 2 versions of Cura (3.5 and 3.6) The boards show up in Device manager, I've deleted the driver and pointed to the Cura folder and it finds a driver but Cura never sees the printer. I actually only want to do a firmware update so could go another route if it is possible? but why can't I connect to them?!
  4. @neo-ninja Did you resolve this? I seem to have the same issue. Thanks
  5. Thanks, that's what I have been but they always seem to spanner just as I leave the room! Got some fantastic prints now using HD Glass... Not sure I need to go down the Nylon route for now.
  6. Yep, a temp drop really nailed the HD Glass print. I think I'm starting to get a better understanding of how the temperature effects the print. Will look at that when I next do a Nylon print too. I'll add to this post when I do. Thanks
  7. I've dropped the material for now. Worryingly I decided to try something else (I got some samples) but it's done something similar... HD Glass with the temp down to 218. Again, it starts off fine but around the same height as my first Nylon prints it's become a dribble twister!
  8. Thanks for replies. I'm using Nylon 6 NYL-BLA 3mm Maybe I should get some bridge as although I don't mind experimenting to get good results, I'm getting bored of printing failed test prints... Sounds like I deffinitely do need to dry it out as it's been out of the packet and on my spool for a few days. I'm not actually getting a lot of popping though, one or two here and there but not a lot at all. The reason I went with turning the fan on was that it just wasn't setting, could that be a moisture thing? I have managed to get better prints by slowing the print down and increasing the extrusion amount (just a little) but I feel I am putting a sticky plaster on a broken leg. My best effort so far of printing a vertical cylinder! Fail
  9. Hi, Still a noob. I recently got a sample of Nylon to try out. I've been printing with PLA no problems but the Mrs hates the smell. I found a few settings that people have used for Nylon and none of them seem to give me a good result. Everyone seems to recommend turning the fan off but I've found that if the fan is off then my print ends up being a bubbling molten mess. If I turn the fan on then it starts to print perfectly until it gets to about 8mm high (I'm just printing a test vertical cylinder) and then it seems to just stop extruding. So if the print is fine for, approx 10 mins, what could cause the element to stop? Is it under-extruding a small amount and it's gradually getting to the point where it runs out? Or under-extruding so the heat gradually works it's way upwards creating too much gunk in the head? My rubberduck debugging seems to be leading me to under-extrusion.....
  10. I had a little success with this today. I used the J22 connectors to connect a 232 cable to my processor (Crestron) I had to edit Configuration.h slightly #define SERIAL_PORT 2 \\was #define SERIAL_PORT 0 and #define BAUDRATE 115200 \\was #define BAUDRATE 250000 I only had to change the baud rate as my processor doesn't support 250000 When I power up the board I get a reasuring barrage of start up data... start echo:Marlin1.0.0 echo: Last Updated: Oct 20 2015 17:12:59 | Author: (David Braam) Compiled: Oct 20 2015 echo: Free Memory: 3840 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X78.74 Y78.74 Z200.00 E836.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z30.00 E25.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S4000.00 T3000.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00 echo:Home offset (mm): echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 Using tool 0. echo:SD card ok This tells me that I am definitely connected, the tx and rx are the right way round and the baud rates match on both devices. Once this happens I then get echo:Unknown command: "" every few seconds. It seems like it is monitoring for commands and if it gets nothing then it gets upset. I'm not too bothered about that yet, what I really need to work out is why it doesn't respond when I do send commands. I'm also not sure yet what commands I can send to get information I need or to control the printer. (have tried some G and M codes but none of them seem to work) I think I may have to enable serial 2 to accept and handle control commands somehow... But serial communication is a good start.
  11. Perfect, thanks. Might not be able to have a bash at this for a couple of days but will update with anything I manage to do.
  12. Certainly will. Serial 3 looks like my ticket, 2, 3 + 4 is all that's needed. Can you post the full image for me, can't seem to find it...
  13. I would like to attach a comms cable (232) to my UMO+ so that I can monitor it's status and maybe trigger commands. This (I believe) is essentially the same as the USB connection, but I am wondering if some of the spare pins on the motherboard can be used as a Tx and Rx... Has anyone done this or have any idea if it's possible?
  14. Ah, maybe not... I have an Original + I'm a noob to this so not sure what the differences are or even if the pin outs are the same...
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