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  1. Thanks Where did you get your board from in the end? Looks like the Ultimaker Original+ that I have uses the Ultimaker 2 board too
  2. And other days things don't. I realise I'm having a conversation with myself here but maybe it will help others and possibly me again in the future. So it seems that my extruder port is also dead. The motor is fine if I move it to another port but now I have 2 dead ports and only 1 spare so I now also have 2 faulty boards! FML
  3. Perfect! Thanks for your help.
  4. Can someone help me understand the pin outs in the pins.h file? (Marlin) They don't seem to match up. I'm pretty sure I am looking at the correct section of the file (* Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment) as I have swapped my Z axis port to the E2 port (E1 in the file) and it worked. But the pin numbers on the base of my board (from and Ultimaker Original+) don't match. For example, in the pins.h file #define X_STEP_PIN 25 #define X_DIR_PIN 23 #define X_STOP_PIN 22 #define X_ENABLE_PIN 27 but printed on the board they are pins TP46 - TP49 What am I missing?
  5. Some days things just work out. So if anyone is actually interested, I moved the Z control over to the E2 port. Managed to work out what I did so many years back and did the same for this port. Brief summary Used a Marlin version of the firmware Swapped pins in pins.h //Original /* #define Z_STEP_PIN35 #define Z_DIR_PIN 36 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 34 */ //New #define Z_STEP_PIN 49 #define Z_DIR_PIN 47 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 48 //Original /* #define E1_STEP_PIN 49 #define E1_DIR_PIN 47 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 48 */ //New #define E1_STEP_PIN 35 #define E1_DIR_PIN 36 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 34 Compiled and it failed because of an old bug / typo where "fpos_t" should have been "filepos_t" Just did a search and replace for all, compile, find more in other dependent files, repeat until it compiled OK. Uploaded, worked!
  6. Gave up a while back but I really want to get this up and running again. My PC running Windows 10 can see the board, it shows up as Arduino Mega 2560 under com ports Cura just doesn't see it at all. Now rocking version 4.0.0 Can I upgrade the firmware via the Arduino IDE? Every search I have tried brings me back to the "use Cura" instructions.
  7. I can connect using Arduino IDE fine but not Cura... 😕
  8. A little back story. Three and a half years ago, I received my Ultimamer Original+ and the motherboard had a dead E1 port, thanks to the support from people in this thread I managed to get a version of the firmware to move over to E2 and all was well. I received a replacement board from Ultimaker which I never actually swapped over as I had just got the damaged one working. Fast forward to today and I have a weird issue with the Y axis taking leaps every now and then and it's not due to slipping. As some have mentioned it could be a board issue, I've decided to install that replacement board. The Z port is dead! WTF, were these boards known for being flakey? I've moved my Z motor over to the X port and an autohome moves the motor fine so I'm pretty sure we are talking about another dead port. So, now I find myself in the past and trying to edit the firmware but this time to move the control of the Z port to the E2 port. I imagine this too is possible but it might be more editing of the config than before due to different set functionality of the port. If anyone has any comments, suggestions or has done this before then please let me know. I'm not sure if I should start off editing the same file as before from here (although this has been updated also) or to look at a new version of firmware to edit. I've not updated the firmware in the last few years as if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it and also I would have had to edit it every time. TL;DR Ultimaker Original+ Z port dead on motherboard, want to edit firmware to move it to E2.
  9. Can you actually do this? I've had this unit for a few years now and can't remember if I ever connected over USB, but right now I can't I just so happen to have a spare motherboard so have tried this with 2 motherboards, 2 USB cables, 2 PCs (both Windows 10) and 2 versions of Cura (3.5 and 3.6) The boards show up in Device manager, I've deleted the driver and pointed to the Cura folder and it finds a driver but Cura never sees the printer. I actually only want to do a firmware update so could go another route if it is possible? but why can't I connect to them?!
  10. @neo-ninja Did you resolve this? I seem to have the same issue. Thanks
  11. Thanks, that's what I have been but they always seem to spanner just as I leave the room! Got some fantastic prints now using HD Glass... Not sure I need to go down the Nylon route for now.
  12. Yep, a temp drop really nailed the HD Glass print. I think I'm starting to get a better understanding of how the temperature effects the print. Will look at that when I next do a Nylon print too. I'll add to this post when I do. Thanks
  13. I've dropped the material for now. Worryingly I decided to try something else (I got some samples) but it's done something similar... HD Glass with the temp down to 218. Again, it starts off fine but around the same height as my first Nylon prints it's become a dribble twister!
  14. Thanks for replies. I'm using Nylon 6 NYL-BLA 3mm Maybe I should get some bridge as although I don't mind experimenting to get good results, I'm getting bored of printing failed test prints... Sounds like I deffinitely do need to dry it out as it's been out of the packet and on my spool for a few days. I'm not actually getting a lot of popping though, one or two here and there but not a lot at all. The reason I went with turning the fan on was that it just wasn't setting, could that be a moisture thing? I have managed to get better prints by slowing the print down and increasing the extrusion amount (just a little) but I feel I am putting a sticky plaster on a broken leg. My best effort so far of printing a vertical cylinder! Fail
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