Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks again @calinb That is a shame about your howtos, to be honest until now I've been perfectly happy with the quality of prints so have been in the "if it aint broke, don't try and fix it" world, so if I can still get nozzles to fit then I will probably end up leaving it as is for another few years until it's completey obsolete. I did see someone say that the E3D nozzles fit so I blindly ordered one and the one that arrived was a nozzle for ants. Is it the cyclops that are compatible?
  2. Thankyou @calinb I love to tinker but my issue here is with the time I currently have to tinker on this. I'm in the middle of developing something and needed to do a load of test prints (so this is obviously when it gave up) so I think I'm going to have to just get those 4 replacement nozzles, keeping in mind that I need to devote some time to upgrade and tinker with it if I want it to carry on being as good as it was out of the box. I've been very lucky in the fact that I've lasted this long on my first nozzle! Have you documented all the chang
  3. Thank you for responding I seem to be stuck between a rock and a hard place atm. I can only find one place that sells the original nozzles (but I have to buy 4) or I have to buy the whole hot end kit. Neither of which I want to do as it seems I need to upgrade it now to future proof it before it becomes useless. Nor do I want to shell out for a nozzle that may or may not fit and print. All upgrades I've seen involve printing parts which at the moment I can't do... Maybe I should bite the bullet and order 4 of those nozzles and sell 3 of them on e
  4. Ah, does it mean the base of the nozzel shouldn't be flush with the block and that the 2 threaded parts should be tightened to meet each other inside the block to create a seal?
  5. OK, so looking at the Olsson Ruby 2.85mm / 0.4mm compatibility list it says it's compatible with Ultimaker Original+ *1 *2 *1 = You will need to adjust the fan shroud since the nozzle is shorter than the original nozzle. *2 = You will need to mount it with the nozzle not placed against the front face of the heater block but against the heat break/isolator tube to create a seal. 1, I presume is as simple as printing this fan shorud or just chopping bits off of my one but I'm not sure what 2 means. Anyone done this?
  6. I have an UMO+ that I have had for 4/5 years now and I think my nozzle has finally had it after printing a load of Carbonfill. So over the last half a decade there seems to be a lot of changes so I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea of my best option. I wanted to get a hardened steel nozzle but it seems that they don't make them for the UMO+? So how much of the hot end do I need to swap out to use more up to date nozzles? I can't actually tell if the replacement hot end kits I've seen are just a replacement that puts me back where I starte
  7. Thanks Where did you get your board from in the end? Looks like the Ultimaker Original+ that I have uses the Ultimaker 2 board too
  8. And other days things don't. I realise I'm having a conversation with myself here but maybe it will help others and possibly me again in the future. So it seems that my extruder port is also dead. The motor is fine if I move it to another port but now I have 2 dead ports and only 1 spare so I now also have 2 faulty boards! FML
  9. Can someone help me understand the pin outs in the pins.h file? (Marlin) They don't seem to match up. I'm pretty sure I am looking at the correct section of the file (* Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment) as I have swapped my Z axis port to the E2 port (E1 in the file) and it worked. But the pin numbers on the base of my board (from and Ultimaker Original+) don't match. For example, in the pins.h file #define X_STEP_PIN 25 #define X_DIR_PIN 23 #define X_STOP_PIN 22 #define X_ENABLE_PIN 27 but printed on the board they are
  10. Some days things just work out. So if anyone is actually interested, I moved the Z control over to the E2 port. Managed to work out what I did so many years back and did the same for this port. Brief summary Used a Marlin version of the firmware Swapped pins in pins.h //Original /* #define Z_STEP_PIN35 #define Z_DIR_PIN 36 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 34 */ //New #define Z_STEP_PIN 49 #define Z_DIR_PIN 47 #define Z_STOP_PIN 29 #define Z_ENABLE_PIN 48 //Original /* #define E1_STE
  11. Gave up a while back but I really want to get this up and running again. My PC running Windows 10 can see the board, it shows up as Arduino Mega 2560 under com ports Cura just doesn't see it at all. Now rocking version 4.0.0 Can I upgrade the firmware via the Arduino IDE? Every search I have tried brings me back to the "use Cura" instructions.
  12. I can connect using Arduino IDE fine but not Cura... 😕
  • Create New...