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Shipbrook

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  1. Shipbrook

    Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Beta

    Oh, hey, nifty. Didn't realize that was an option.
  2. Shipbrook

    Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Beta

    I don't object to the clicking and overlapping (though obviously not as convenient as it would be to just click on a surface to mark the whole thing in a single go) - it's when the area I want to block support for is significantly smaller than the blocking cube, and stuff that I don't want blocked gets caught up in it too.
  3. Shipbrook

    Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Beta

    I love the idea of a support blocker, but unless I'm missing something, there doesn't seem to be a way to change the size or shape of the area being blocked, which can be a little inconvenient in some cases. Would it be possible to have a blocking mode that lets you click on specific overhangs that you don't want supported?
  4. Shipbrook

    Significant overextrusion with Cura 3.0.3

    Ahhh - thanks! It's been so long since I set up Cura 15 for OctoPrint that I'd forgotten I switched the gcode flavor.
  5. Decided to give Cura 3 a try, and discovered that my multipart model wasn't fitting together properly (and didn't look as nice as when sliced by Cura 15.04.6). So I printed some calibration cubes (1cm cube with 1mm walls, open at the top) and this is what I got: The left one was sliced with Cura 15.04.6, using settings I've arrived at over time that give good results with my printer. Center one was sliced with Cura 3.0.3, with my best attempt at matching the settings from the first one. Right one was sliced with Cura 3.0.3 using the standard "Extra Fine" profile, but with the layer height doubled to 0.12mm (and the flow rate reduced in OctoPrint to 75%, since printing it at 100% flow got the nozzle encased in PLA, which dragged the print free of the build plate before it was finished). I'm not an expert at reading gcode, but it looks like Cura 3's telling the printer to extrude way more material than Cura 15 is. The material profile I'm using has the right filament diameter (and I verified the actual diameter with a micrometer in several places; it's nicely circular and within ±0.01mm of 2.85mm throughout). What's causing this, and how can I fix it? I'd really like to use some of the nifty new features of Cura 3. Gcode for all three, if that'll help to diagnose the issue: Testcube1.gcode (15.04.6 Custom settings) - https://pastebin.com/CVwMnUdF Testcube2.gcode (3.0.3 Custom settings) - https://pastebin.com/jeVhShJ8 Testcube3.gcode (3.0.3 Extra Fine-ish) - https://pastebin.com/AuvDdJF2
  6. I enjoy making reproductions of sci-fi props. This one is the "Global Link" smartphone from the TV show Earth: Final Conflict (which aired a decade before the first iPhone). With convenient belt clip! The show had a few versions of the prop (opened to various degrees, closed, and a "hero" version which used an accordion arm and something like a miniature window roller shade to show the screen extruding from a case apparently too small to contain it). Still sourcing the parts for a hero version, but I could at least make the static versions. Modeled in Blender, based on screenshots from episodes throughout the first season.
  7. Version 1.0

    875 downloads

    A reproduction of the "Global Link" smartphone prop from the TV show Earth: Final Conflict. Modeled in Blender, based on screenshots from first season episodes.
  8. Thanks! Fast work on the fixes, great job!
  9. Hope this is the right subforum for this; I didn't see any specifically for YouMagine. I was looking at one of my models on YouMagine, and discovered that, while the assembled model view looked correct, the thumbnails and 3D previews of the individual components were all wrong. (See screenshots below.) I downloaded the STL for one of the "wrong" components, and it was the correct file, so it looks like the website's just getting some of its wires crossed when displaying STL files (the plain images all seem to be okay). So I looked around a bit, and found some models that are showing the same problem, but others aren't. And I don't know if it's related or not, but attempting to sort search results by "Newest" isn't working either. It gives the same results as "Relevant" (and in fact changes the dropdown to "Relevant" instead of "Newest").
  10. Apparently this is a well-known weathering technique amongst the scale modeling community, but I only recently learned of it and gave it a try (and it worked pretty well), so I figured I'd pass it along for anyone else who'd never heard of it either. With salt masking, you start off by painting your object a rusty color (varying the tone for best results) and letting it dry. Then, using a paintbrush, you moisten areas that you want to have rust on them. After moistening each spot, sprinkle coarse salt on it (it should stick). For heavy rust, cover it completely; for small rust flakes, sprinkle the salt lightly. Allow the model to completely dry. Then airbrush your intended colors over the model, painting salt and plastic alike. Once the final coat is dry, simply brush off the salt. Everywhere the salt was covering the surface (and therefore preventing the paint from reaching it), the "rust" will show through: A similar effect can be used to simulate metal showing through flaking paint; just use a metallic paint as the base coat, rather than rust colors. (Stimpack model printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2.)
  11. Shipbrook

    Fallout 4 Stimpack

    Version 1.0

    2,500 downloads

    A Stimpack from the game Fallout 4, modeled in Blender and printed on an Ultimaker 2, then sanded and painted. See the YouMagine link ("Get 3D model") for full finishing details. Note: While I was in the finishing process, my backordered extrusion upgrade kit arrived. So I reprinted the gauge needle with the 0.25mm nozzle, at a layer height of 0.04mm. (All the rest was printed with the stock UM2 0.4mm nozzle, at a layer height of 0.12mm.)
  12. Shipbrook

    YouMagine - Order of images / documents

    Even when you explicitly upload them in the order you want them displayed, it ignores that order and displays them the way it feels like. I just uploaded something one file at a time, and although the order of the model parts was changed to alphanumeric, the images aren't in any discernable order that I can tell, other than being displayed before the model parts. And it doesn't appear there's any way to prevent the page from displaying the assembled model first, regardless of how long it takes to display a complex or higher-poly model. It'd be nice if it displayed the selected cover image first, and assembled the model in the background to give the end user a more responsive experience.
  13. Version 1.0

    1,395 downloads

    These are "midgrade" prop replicas (detailed enough to be seen in relative close-up, but no moving parts or electric bits). Printed in ColorFabb Black PLA/PHA and Ultimaker Metallic Silver PLA, then they were sanded and painted. There are a couple of non-printed parts on one of them (a chunk of clear acrylic rod, and a watch crown), but apart from those they were printed on an Ultimaker 2. The model files (and more detailed information on the finishing process) are available on YouMagine and Thingiverse.
  14. Shipbrook

    M300 gcode?

    Thanks. That's actually one of the the sources I used when trying to get sounds into my custom control scripts - but it's not working for me.
  15. Shipbrook

    M300 gcode?

    Maybe they took that capability out of the firmware, then. Pity. I suppose I could make noise by moving the build platform up and down a couple of times instead.
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