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MTG

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Everything posted by MTG

  1. Where did you get the PBI? In Germany, it seems very hard to get this. Also I just want a small pice for testing because it seems really expensive.. I would need Ø20mm x 0,5-1m...
  2. Hi KevinMakes, this looks like an interesting design. But I dont think you can machine this part in one piece. The holes where the filament goes trough can't be drilled as they are not straight. The nozzle and the ollsson block are made of brass, it might be CuZn36Pb3 as that is really good to machine. It might be CuZn28, if its without lead. It's not that good to machine as CuZn36P3, but its easier to polish and it might be harder and more resistant to abrasion. I don't know if you are able to notice differences in thermal conductivity as long it is brass, but i don't think so. I don't know when the heater error drops for the hotend, but I know on the heated bed it's at ca. 200°C. There is a Tinkergnome firmware for dual extrusion, that sould work for you.
  3. Hi Sid, just use the Buttons: Blue for uploading, red for linking an external image
  4. Dear Community, I have an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and I wanted to buy an additional Feeder (the geared plus version). My german reseller Igo3d told me, he has not the permission from Ultimaker to sell the feeder, only when I send in a broken one. Is that correct? And why?
  5. That looks really good, it seems like it can handle retractions better than the original printhead? How long is the pbi-part and which outter-diameter did you choose? Do you feel like it can be made shorter without the loss of functionality?
  6. Hi Community, has someone tried out avistron PLA (or other stuff)? http://www.avistron.de/ It comes in a bucket with a 1kg spool and is a bit cheaper than innofill, hope that the quality is good. Will order PLA white this week.
  7. Hi DidierKlein, thank you for your feedback. Atm, the nozzle is lifted 3mm and the nozzle cover has a thickness of 2mm, so there is an offset of 1mm. I did also think of the extra weight of the stepper, even if it's just a small NEMA 8, it will probalbly decrease the maximum accelleration. You might tbe right with the mechanical solution be the better one, it would require less components, modding and also cost less than with stepper+electronics.. The lifting of the nozzles and the turning of the nozzle cover is already one mechanism, it requires just one shaft turned to do both of these actions, so one lever for that will work for that. A retraction is needed in any way, the cover should just prevent the small amount of material coming out after the retraction.
  8. Dear Community, the release of the Ultimaker 3 caused mixed feelings in the forum. On one side, there are a lot of members with much experience who turned out to be like beta testers which say the Ultimaker 3 is so good and on the other side there are a lot of people which feel a bit betrayed from Ultimaker, because they bought an Ultimaker 2 oder 2+ lately, not knowing that there was a new one coming or not knowing if there was ever dual extrsuion coming for ultimaker 2. I did buy the Ultimaker 2+, I did think there will be an update for dual extrusion. A lot of people are saying things like "there never was dual extrusion promised" etc., but when you don't have an Ultimaker, you are not on this forum and in my opinion it was a bit confusing and unclear when you are new and considering to buy the ultimaker 2 or not. But also, I have to say, you really can't blame Ultimaker for that, you can't say that this was intended by them. They also have a business to run and bills to pay, if they announced a Ultimaker 3 in January coming in October, the sales numbers for the last 10 month would have decreased a lot and it would not have been an good descision. To make a point here, the situation is like it is, you can't blame the costumers neither Ultimaker, and we have get the best out of that sitiuation. I think the Ultimaker 2+ is a really good machine. We could afford an Ultimaker 3 too, but I already customized the 2+. I have build an enclosure and I did install an Raspberry running Astroprint with Camera etc, but we defenetily want dual extrusion now. I just made a design in my spare time which might work. We have two possibilities now. We could sell our machine and buy the Ultimaker 3 or we could try to build that design I made. For making that descision I want to show you the Idea and hope you will give me feedback about it. We are able to manufacture the prototype, we have a CNC lathe and a 3 axis CNC milling machine. So if it works some day, I can offer you a kit. Maybe I will release it as open source, too, because in my opinion thats what an upgrade for an open source machine should be. Lets come to the design: My toughts were: prevent oozing, thermally seperate the heating blocks, take as few as possible of the build space and make the change as quick as possible. The idea is that there is a nozzle lift system. When the nozzle is not used, it will be lifted and the ooze cover will be turned 90° under the nozzle and seal it, that no more material is coming out of it. In the same time the other nozzle will be opened and lowered. The lift system is something like a "camshaft". The 90° turning mechanism turns the nozzle cover and the camshaft that lifts the nozzle. The advantages that I see in this: It takes almost no build space. The X/Y-Size of the printhead is not changed, only the size in Z is slightly bigger. It's fast. You don't have to cool down the nozzles to prevent it from oozing. You might have to cool it a little to prevent it from clogging. You don't have to waste material, time and space for a wipe tower that might come unstuck during the print. Where the problems might be: Heat transfer to the head might be too high, we could try making the isolator part out of PBI I don't know if the nozzles might clog, but as you can cool it down a bit I guess that souldn't happen Get the nozzles on the same height. Theoretically, my parts can be made precise enough. Maybe the mounting system from Ultimaker can be problematic. A workaround could be in the software, we could add different offsets to the nozzle. Maybe we have to build a mechanical height calibration for one nozzle. Calibrating would be the usual heat bed calibration and after that a calibration of the right nozzle with the paper trick. For moving the machanism I have planned a NEMA 8 stepper motor. It should be contolled by an Arduino. The tool-change signal can be transferred via free PIN on the Ultimaker board and the M42 command in gcode. An other solution might be like an mechanical one, like the solution of the Ultimaker 3. we could build something like a lever and place something like a lever hard stop on the frame. But that is going to take some build space. I don't know if you get me at this point, it's hard for me to explain that in english. Aditionally, when we have an arduino in use, we could attach a sensor and some indicator for automatic bed levelling. It's not an easy project and I can't make it on my own. I might need help especially on software side, because i'm more the hardware guy. The tinkergnome firmware should theoretically work, we just have to create a tool change script. That's my idea so far. Please give me feedback about it, if a prototype will be made depends on your opinion about all of that. If you have questions or i have explained something poorly, please let me know. Maybe I can make a video, but it has been a time since I used the Inventor rendering thing.
  9. Sorry that I disturb the discussion of the descisionmaking of the ultimaker company, but can someone just answer that question?
  10. Do the cores need to wipe before nozzle change? Or is the low/high temperature reached fast enough?
  11. According to the teaser, it clearly has dual extrusion. But the printed part looks a bit warped, so I guess it has no enclosure.
  12. Are these the unused pins that are controllable by the M42-Command? Sorry that I can't figure it out by myself, but im really not good at reding these circuit diagrams.. Edit: So what are the Pins that are 5V?
  13. The geckotek looks good, too. What do you think it is made of? First I thought it was brushed aluminium, but since it is magnetic, it could be a brushed stainless steel, but with ferromagnetic characteristics.
  14. Hi Community, has anyone tried one of these? http://www.fleks3d.com/ Seems like an good alternative to gluestick, if the adhesion is good enough. They don't tell the material its made of, but i think it might be frostet PMMA, because PMMA is more scratch- and heat-resistant than other plastics..
  15. Since I can't even find that part in the main assemlby, you might be right that I dont't need it. I want to mount the second feeder box on the first one, flipping the second stepper outside, like, I think Ulticreatr did that? I don't want to modify the case atm. Does anyone know about that glass fiber sensor? Is is compatibe withthe old 25W heater? I think I already have one glass fiber, because i have the + version? So I would just need one..
  16. Hi, I'm currently working on a new approach on dual extrusion. The design in CAD is almost finished, firmware problem is theoretically solved. I plan to machine the parts for the prototype in the course of the next weeks. When everything works as planned, the design will prevent oozing without seperatly heating and cooling the nozzles. A wipe tower will not be needed. I plan to use two 25W Heaters because of the power supply. That should work atm, I don't think we will need more for ABS and PLA because they don't have to cool down when they are not in use. I decided to go with tho olsson blocks or the moment. I want to use the feeder of the 2+ version, but the heaters of the 2 (bc they are 25 W). What kind of temp sensor should I use? I guess the glass fiber one is better? I made a list of things I need from Ultimaker as spare parts for this project (Info: I have the 2+ version). olsson nozzle 0.40 - 2313 - 2pcs PT 100BB sensor glassfiber - 2288 - 1 pcs (or better pt.no. 1185?) Heater Cartridge 24V 25W - 1268 - 2 pcs Grip Axis - 1960 - 1 pcs Idler Spring - 1961 - 1 pcs Tension Indicator - 1962 - 1pcs Feeder casing Part A-left - 1963 - 1pcs Feeder casing Part B-left - 1965 - 1pcs Feeder lever part A - 1967 - 1pcs Feeder lever part B - 1968 - 1pcs spur gear 1M 11T - 1969 - 1pcs spur gear 1M 36T - 1970 - 1pcs Threaded standoff - 1971 - 2pcs idler wheel - 1972 - 1pcs bearing idler wheel - 1973 - 1pcs bearing feeder axis - 1974 - 2pcs Filament Guide Insert - 1976 - 1pcs Feeder Motor - 1977 - pcs Bowden tube - 1266 - 1pcs Tube Coupling Collet - 1069 - 2pcs Clamp Clip - 1071 - 2pcs Feeder Ring - 1279 - 1pcs Did I forget anything? After a few tests I will give you more info about the design. I don't want to release anything if it doesn't work properly.
  17. Can someone help me find an unused 5V pin? I'm not very good at reading circuit diagrams. Would like to give a signal to an arduino. LED pwm might work, but i would prefer a 5V pin. As far as I know I can control any pin with the M42 command? Is that right?
  18. Tank you, found it. That's the point, the extra motor will be used for the second extruder, so I need to find a way for an third (extra extra) stepper motor. Is there any way to get a signal from any unused pins or connectors? I can connect the small stepper by using extra electronics, but is there something on the mainboard which i could use to get a signal to the extra electronics?
  19. Dear Ultimaker Community, im new to this forum and i'm planning to try some modifications on our half year old Ultimaker 2+ Extended. I'm an engineering student, searching a project for bachelor thesis, and maybe an Ultimaker modification will be suitable. My special field is production technology. Parallel to my study, I have been working in our family business for a couple of years now. We are developing and manufacturing medical devices and medical supply units, so I have access to machinery like cnc milling and turning machines. I'm specially interested in making an enclosure (which shouln't be that hard) and a new approach on dual extrusion. Right now, I'm having hard times to get some information about the ultimaker. I found the 3d-models on Github, but I can't find an electrical documentation. I have these questions by the moment: Where to connect a second stepper/temp-sensor/heater for dual extrusion? Is there an official firmware which supports dual extrusion? Is there really a problem with the power supply? I read that you get trouble when using two 35W heaters, but two 25W are fine. What is the Ultimaker standard? 25W? Is there the possibility to connect an small stepper motor (just for tool change)? Can I get this kind of information at any place? I don't want to burden the community with every small question i have. Thank you for any help, I hope I can return it someday. Regards, Alex
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