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RonanB

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    Medicine
  1. Hi, I see that you don't have bottom layer too. If I'm not wrong you tryed to print the body of a robot, the left object reight ? I think you change the bottom layer thickness to 0. It might change the top one too. In cura 2.1 I can select it separetly. What version of cura are you using ?
  2. Hi ! I tryed this one too. I also tryed Layfomm and gellay. Those one were very soft but layer adhesion is not that good. In fact, there are flexible only when wet. There is some PVA and another plastic in those filament. When you print it, it is not soft at all. After that, you have to rinse it to remove the pva and it become soft. The layer adhesion is very week when it is wet and if you make a closed volume with infill, it is hard to remove the water inside. The pression can break the object while you deform it (if water inside) and if you tryed to extended on the z axe (because of la
  3. Hi, I think 30mm/sec travel speed is very slow (was it 300 mm/sec ?). You may try to increase it a lot. I almost print with 200 mm/sec travel speed, it reduce the print time a lot if the head have to travel a lot during the print and also I hear it helps with stringing. If the head move slowly, the material have more time to flow with the gravity, increasing stinging. You can do some stuff with retractation (i don't use it very often so i don't know what is optimal for it). I might be wrong, but you can give it a try on a smaller model. Good luck !
  4. You don't really need to be a software engineer to report a bug, just a user. It is true that cura 2.1 is much slower than previous version. I found that if i upload a model and i am in the slice view, it take a long time to slice. If I go to normal view and then go back to slice view while cura is slowly slicing the model, it become faster. I don't know if it a cura bug or if it's because of my computer, but i am just a user I don't think there is any configuration fix for your problem. You have to wait for optimisation and fix I guess. I don't find the 2.1 is that slow, ok i have to wai
  5. Ok ! merci beaucoup. Un problème que je risque de rencontrer c'est pour fixer la tige représentant la trajectoire. Si le projectile ne traverse pas l'objet, ça risque d'être compliqué de fixé une tige avec un seul shell (de 0.4 certainement) sans infill d'ou ma question sur l'infill. Comment se comporte ces matériaux avec quelque % d'infill ? Le but est de voir l'intérieure, par forcément à travers. Les objet seront des cranes, pas forcement un volumes fermé, je ne sais pas encore. Du coup je pense que le mod spiralize peut marcher. A cause de cette limite de 1 shell pour que ce soit vraime
  6. Salut, Merci de ta réponse ! Pour donner plus de détail, le but n'est pas de fabriquer des objets et de tirer dessus (en plastique... meh), mais d'imprimer des modèles 3D d'objet endommager par une balle, avec la trajectoire et la position de la(es) balle(s) dans l'objet si elle sont restées. La question que je me pose c'est de savoir si par exemple les tiges représentant les trajectoires sont rouge et les balles vertes quelle serait le meilleur filament transparent pour voir ces objet coloré à l'intérieur "relativement clairement". J'ai du silicone translucide donc je pourrais faire un
  7. Bonjour, Suite à un nouveau projet, j'ai besoin d'obtenir des pièces relativement volumineuses transparentes. Il faudrait que le matériau soit suffisamment transparent pour que l'on puisse voir d'autre pièce à l’intérieure. En gros j'ai besoin de voir des trajectoires (balistiques) à l'intérieure d'objets, vu de l'extérieure. Le volume fait environ la taille d'un crane. Je sais qu'il existe différents filaments transparents et j'ai vu que certain d'entre vous les ont essayé mais c'était il y a un certain temps. Quelle filament serait bien adapté pour ce genre d'application ? J'ai vu le t
  8. Hello ! I am only using cura since I start printing stuff and on all the different version I tried, Cura always start extruding filament before printing. I don't think this is actualy a bug. Normaly, it extrude on the front left corner of the printer and after few centimeters extruded, it start printing. If your nozzle is very clean, the filament extruded should go smoothly on the build plate and form a kind of small circle. If you start printing the object just after that (without skirt or brim) the filament can sometimes srcew a part of the first layer. It happens to me on very big first
  9. Hi, the red part on the X-ray view tell that you have an error on your 3D model. I am not an expert but i think it can happen because of holes in the mesh, wrong normal ect... You can check if your model is correct until someone with more experience come here. Can you show us a picture of the model if possible ? ps : you may have already solve your problem... haven't see the date -.-
  10. Hi guys! I have an issue with cura. It is maybe just a checkbox parameter somewhere but i can't find it... So, i'm trying to print some molds, but when cura slice it, the flat surface which is in contact with the other part of the mold is not a full layer (i get a half layer most of the time). There is a gap of 0.2 mm on a large part of the mold. The mold works but i really want to know why cura is doing that. Here some pictures : The object is touching the buildplate everywhere, so i don't think it is a problem of angle. Also with a 1° angle, i may not have those lines (in
  11. hi ! I got the same result... with ABS ! It is weird that PLA warp that much. Do you use a heated bed ? You can use 60°C for buildplate and gluestick. It is far enought for regular PLA. Also What is your fan setting, nozzle temp, temperaure of the room... ? What is your printer ? On my UM2E, I can print PLA without gluestick and no heated bed. I would say it come from the material but you use different one... Warping maybe (I'm not an expert) come from the difference of temperature betwen your piece and the environment. Are you sure you are printing PLA ? I got white Ultimaker ABS and pie
  12. I used a glue stick for bed adhesion. My print bed was, ofc, 100 °C. I forgot to mention it. ^^' Can you post some of your wire print if possible ? I would like to know if it's worst it to loose time trying printing it because it is not that important in my project. My goal is to print a liver with maybe a tumor inside. With wire printing, the surgeon will see where is the tumor but this is not the real purpose of the project, this is just a "plus". I'll buy some acetone tomorrow. Is that easier with PLA ? edit : the fan was off... It might affect a lot this kind of print
  13. Hello ! I tryed to print an object with wire printing enable in cura 2.1. I checked all the "layers" with http://chilipeppr.com/tinyg and it looks "OK". I have no idea what kind of setting choose for ultimaker white ABS.... I was pritting slowly (20mm/sec) at 255°C with a .4 mm nozzle. The bed adhesion was very low so I get nothing. Did one of you achieve to print an object with wire printing? please let me know
  14. C'est aussi ce que je fais d'habitude mais cette fois-ci, en démontant la buse j'ai vu un morceau d'abs coincé dedans. je n'ai pas pu nettoyer le nozzle parce que pas d'acétone... Quand j'utilisais la méthode atomic, le filament inséré ne fondait pas (j'ai essayé avec abs et pla aussi). Je pense que le bout d'abs dedans est cassé sur un bonne hauteur ce qui empêche la méthode atomic (si le filament fond pas, pas de remplissage de la buse :/) Quand j'essayer d'extruder a la main et via "move material" un petit peu de matériau sortait mais je devait appuyer vraiment fort et j'avait peur endomm
  15. Salut, j'ai eu le même type de problème la semaine dernière est j'ai mis 1 jours à le résoudre. Dans mon cas il semblait qu'un morceau d'abs était cassé dans la buse, trop haut pour que le filament insérer pour la méthode atomic fonde et pour q'une bonne extrusion du matériaux fonctionne. J'ai essayé de l'extruder avec "move material" : aucun resultat. J'ai essayé de l'extruder "à la main" : aucun résultat. Désespéré, j'ai essayé de faire une méthode atomic avec un fil de cuivre (dénudé entièrement au préalable). Bien sur il ne faut pas l'enfoncer jusqu'au bout et ça à marcher. J'ai mon
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