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  1. No, I never found the setting to change that and couldn't find an article that plainly said where and or how to change that. The material I am using is eSun PLA and that wasn't listed as an option so I have to use generic PLA in the material section. So I fixed the problem by using Cure 15.06.03. Went into settings and changed the bed temp to 75 and everything is printing just fine. 75 is way out of spec for the filament too but it got chilly here and the bed probably had a tougher time maintaining real temp. Also every filament has its own quirks and issues. If I use a red and sometimes yello
  2. "This setting has been hidden by the active machine" is next to the setting I need to change. Should I just go back to an old version of Cura that let me change things? I mean the print quality of Cura 2 is identical to the print quality of Cura 4.7.1.
  3. I also have this problem with an ultimaker 2+ using Cura 4.7.1. I have checked every box but I still can't change it and more than one print has failed because the filament is just falling off the bed. I saw someone said to change the Flavor of the slicing software to marlin but I can't find where to do that either. Hint if you look up Flavor, nothing pops up so please use technical terms the software can understand and is searchable. Thanks
  4. I went through all of these problems too and I've come to some conclusions based solely on my experience. PLA manufacturer and filament color matter, Hatchbox technical support actually said their filament is not compatible with the Ultimaker line. I've had the same brand of filament act differently, black was very viscous and sticky, printed wonderfully and stuck to the bed, then red wouldn't. I tried glue, no glue, tape, and weights on the brim all to get it to stick. Different brands and colors leave behind variable amounts of residue after a print. So when I have a fail like your descri
  5. Every print has had some problem. This happens to me when the bed is oily from a fingerprint or other contaminate. My Ultimaker can't print two times in a row on the same spot, the filament leaves a residue that keeps the next print from sticking. I have to take out the build plate between every print and wash it with dish soap. Then reinsert it and run the bed leveling procedure.
  6. I love the salt idea, right now I've been squeaking by with a raft and glue smeared everywhere. I started with the thin film of glue like in the instructions, that wasn't enough. I just had a print fail today because the raft didn't stick to the glass.
  7. I'm working on a model of a building and all the parts keep warping. I have tried cleaning the bed which didn't work, I put on a new glass bed, it made it better for three prints and now it is just as bad as the last bed. I have releveled the bed every time I changed the bed. I rotated the model to have less surface touching the build plate, I changed the layer thickness thinking that a thicker layer would adhere better, then I tried glue and the glue print failed faster than all the others. I have tried Hatchbox, Ultimaker, Lulzbot, and Gizmo Dorks filament. I assume everybody is thinking th
  8. OK, I am trying to build a rocket to show the physics classes, started with a simple cylinder and did a .8mm offset, extruded to 65mm tall. Added a .4mm ring to the top of the design to keep the motor from sliding through. The printer should just lay down two lines of filament in a circle, done! Unfortunately no matter how many times I level the build plate it is not starting close enough to the glass to get the filament to stick, and it is completely ignoring the brim I told it to do. It just runs in a circle extruding plastic into smushed circles, never getting any taller until it separates
  9. Okay, this all took a new direction. I followed some of the wonderful advice given above and changed settings, I even did a factory reset. Nothing worked, just failed print after failed print until I finally got one to work. How did I do it, I changed filament from gray to black. It was the Ultimaker filament the whole time. The Gray is so brittle it was shattering in the Bowden tube and little bits were jamming the hot end and the pusher motor. It would be pushing filament up the tube then crack off a piece and wedge it just above the grinder wheel and that would be the end. So I took every
  10. GR5 I used the image gallery and all the pics are still in dropbox and Google drive, I didn't move a thing. I'll try it again. I also discovered all kinds of problems that I didn't know I even had. I lost one of the Bowden tube clips and could not figure out where it went, and in trying to solve this problem I discovered it has slid down to the teflon coupler and was sometimes impeding the Bowden tube from seating in the coupler. Then when I took off the fans I noticed discoloration in the shape of the block on the shroud. When I installed the block I cranked it down so hard I though I wa
  11. Well I tried to add an image gallery and include images through shared dropbox links and nothing looks like it works so I'll try to share with Googlehttps://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B6Qt_aaNkZ8kbDV3YnBJVUIwSlE&usp=sharing Advanced Settings.tiff
  12. Here are screen captures of the settings used, but I can't get the little robot sample to print without the flow stopping midway through the print. Yes there is grind and yes I break it off and start fresh because the filament won't move past that point. I also have tightened and loosened that adjustment from as loose as it can go to as tight as it can go with no significant change in frustration or outcome. The printer worked for the first three weeks and nothing but failure since. Here are all the settings I know to find, I hope someone can shed some light on why we can't shove hot plastic t
  13. I have had two long prints fail, one late and the second almost immediately, each time I removed the bowden tube pulled the filament out and I could see that it was melted at the end but flat. I reinserted the filament and just applied pressure until filament extruded. So why couldn't the Ultimaker do this? After the first fail I restarted the print and it failed again in about 60 minutes. Do I need to do some cleaning on the nozzle? This is only the third print through the nozzle and the first one worked perfectly. So far I have adjusted the tension on the feeder and that didn't change anythi
  14. I'm just starting out and I've made a few things successfully and now I was trying to see if I could make something big. So I did this complicated design in SketchUp and I thought it might be a good idea to try a 1/4 scale print just to make sure it was good and it literally printed a gray ball of fluff. So I backed up to the basic shape I started with and found Solidworks2. Checked the mesh for holes and it printed it out (see picture, shape on the right). Then I went to the next step and added a couple shapes and ran it through Solidworks2 again. When it printed it went back to a giant blob
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