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  1. Just because the issue's root cause is bad adhesion, doesn't mean there aren't issues down the line. We're not talking about the obvious problem of bed adhesion and the obvious need to solve that. I am talking about the $375 UM3 head and how it can be brought to its knees with a clog; potentially ruining the head itself (see the picture attached). I have never had a clog on the UM2. And even if there were a clog like this that also occurred with the UM2, the assembly is much simpler and way cheaper to fix. This is where I derive my position that the UM3 head is poorly designed in this regard. I sense, based on the type of responses you've given so far, that you've decided I am wrong and are willing to go to great lengths to prove that. Respectfully, I will not be spending any more time responding to you here.
  2. The fact that this thread exists. The same thing has happened to me twice. Also, the fact that you could separate a super clogged heat block on the UM2 much easier/better. I should say it's designed poorly in comparison.
  3. The hotend on the UM3 is poorly designed. Period.
  4. Sounds good friends, I wont be in the office until Monday but I will definitely give this a shot. THANK YOU!!!
  5. No I mean if I level the bed manually, I am able to use the calibration card when it does its double check and everything seems fine. Then the next time I go to print, the bed moves up to start the print and it actually touches the nozzle. This makes me think something is wrong that the printer is not moving the bed up to the exact same height on the Z axis during a print as it does when its letting me level it. I didnt even try autoleveling as the last time I did it, the printer gave me the error that it couldnt reconcile the height difference between the print cores. That error started when I still have buildtak on it, but I have since taken that off so it shouldnt be affecting it anymore.
  6. Getting real tired of this piece of trash... It started because I tried using some buildtak to see if PVDF would stick to it. But once I leveled the plate with the buildtak on, the printer began to totally lose its mind and turn into a paperweight. THE PROBLEM: I took the buildtak off to reset everything. I Manually level the bed and it seems fine. Then when I go to begin a new print, the bed hits the nozzle..... Autolevel doesnt work either because the bed hits the nozzle too..... What the actual hell am I supposed to do about this?
  7. Any word on whether this was figured out? I put buildtak on my UM3 and it gets pissy about it too. It claims theres an unrealistic difference in height.
  8. My printer is doing this for the first time. Im trying to print something thats going to take 20+ hours so this is terribly annoying.
  9. Dude, what brand of PDVF are you using? I use Nile Polymers PVDF and can print at 240-260 C
  10. Thanks for the reply; I am sorry my lazy butt didn't read all of your original post! Lolol.
  11. I make LOTS of end use parts with Carbon Fiber PLA. I had to buy the Hardcore upgrades from 3D Solex. But even then you have to mess about in order to print with them. Lying to the machine and what not. This would be an amazing addition for me! I am very interested in these. The only question I have so far is if they will come in the range of nozzle sizes? .25 to .8 or so maybe?
  12. I think I just solved my own problem. I saved my materials to the SD card to see what they are doing. With the new version of Cura, when I change the nozzle size, there are corresponding settings in the materials that are in the printer for this. I am using a .8mm nozzle and when I look in the SD card in the materials.txt file, there are settings for .8 nozzle. The temp gets pushed to 240 if Cura saves a file that tells the printer its a .8mm nozzle I guess. So at least I know why its doing it. The trouble is figuring out why the print was worse after the first one was done perfectly.
  13. My printer is doing the same exact thing but at different times. I just upgraded my UM2 to a + and installed the firmware. I reloaded cura and am using Polypropylene. The first print I did came out perfectly, but then every time I went to print after that the machine kept using a nozzle temp of 240 instead of 220 which is did the first time. Not only that but even if I manually change the temp after the print starts, its still worse quality than the first print so I am assuming the printer is probably changing other settings too. But how am I supposed to know what its doing. Anyone else having this problem?
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