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Everything posted by RayvenMaker

  1. Good tip! I'm going to be a little more cautious about using it now...
  2. Sorry that I didn't get back to you sooner... I've been busy. I'll see what happens after I blowtorch it... But I think I might just want to buy a new BB core. Right now, I'm working with fbrc8 to get this straightened out—I only got this in November. Also, I'm probably not going to use my BB very much, so it doesn't really make sense for me to make it really versatile. But actually, I'm looking into the upgrade for one of my AA cores—I loved being able to change nozzle sizes and hardnesses back with my UM2 (with Olsson block). CF filament has always been on my 3DP wishlist... Make On! RayvenMaker
  3. Ok, just reassembled the print core. I put it back in the printer, and tried to run some cleaning filament through it... all that came out was this coarse, orange, fragile powder that no one could call proper extrusion. Tried the atomic method—it seemed like it couldn't get a good grip. Someone had to drill (or CNC) that 0.4mm hole in the nozzle (unless it was injection molded with some serious black magic), so there's probably a 0.4mm mill bit out there, right? Where could I find one... if that's a good idea. What about replacing just the nozzle? I think I saw one on @gr5's store—would that fit in my existing heater block? @SyntaxTerror, I've tried blowtorching before, back with my Ultimaker 2... ended up warping the nozzle. But there was a lot of filament jammed in there, and I probably got it too far into the red-hot spectrum... there isn't much left in this nozzle, so I think I'll give it a shot, last resort. Make On! RayvenMaker
  4. Ok, just took apart the print core... here are some photos of the parts with the PVA. Yeah, it's really stuck. I'm letting the two parts soak in water, and I'll see if that helps. If it doesn't get that caramelized part out, I'm going pro and drilling it out. Thanks for all the help! I couldn't have done it without you guys. Make On! RayvenMaker
  5. Hey @tomnagel, @ultiarjan, Thanks for the suggestions! I did contact the reseller... they thought I should just get a new print core. I'll try your second suggestion, @tomnagel, but it's really stuck in there. Last resort has already been passed: except at max temp. Nothing came out except smoke. I tried the wirebrush method... there isn't even any filament in the heated nozzle. As far as I can tell, the filament's tip was hot, and it somehow might've cooled down in the section of the print core with the heat sink. I'm not sure.
  6. I'm about to buy another BB core... but before I do, what can I do to get that piece of filament out? I really don't want to have to buy one.
  7. Thanks for the idea! Unfortunately, the piece is jammed, and even when I pressed on it with a screwdriver, it wouldn't extrude.
  8. Hey guys! I'm looking for the best way to get this out. The filament jammed, broke off inside the core. I used that screwdriver to measure how far down it was, and it seemed to break off right where the heatsink starts. What do you think I could do to get this out? I've already tried hot/cold pulling it, with no luck. It's PVA, so I'm considering dissolving it, but that already sounds like a bad idea. What about drilling it? Thanks. Make On! Reagan
  9. I know they probably do... I just want to make sure.
  10. Thanks for the mention! Direct modeling looks really cool! Yeah, I do cringe when I have to change complex geometries... But guess what? I found direct modeling in Fusion! https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/video/youtube/watch-v-zbEZlny7OH8.html It's definitely not as established as Keycreator's direct modeling (Fusion is parametric by nature) but hey, it's there.
  11. I tried that at first... PVA still prints inside the brim if I do that when I'm printing support. What about a raft of the first material? Or, what about this—what if there was a setting where everything on the first layer was a certain material (e.g. ABS), and then everything else after that would proceed as normal. Then, if you had a glass build plate, you could print the first layer in entirely PVA to make sure it sticks, then print whatever else you want after that. SandervG, what do you think?
  12. Thanks, tomnagel! Let the experimenting begin, then. I'll post results here.
  13. Thanks for the info! I didn't know that! Well, I do have some CPE as well... will that work better with PVA?
  14. Autodesk's Fusion 360 should do all of that! Screenshots below: I just used the loft command here, with two circles above each other. Line command in sketch mode. Extruded the sketch. Move command. It's more of a relative coord system, though. Shell command... although, this always deletes 1 or more faces. So you'll have a cone with an open top. This is making it entirely closed off and hollow: I used a second loft inside of the cone. I wish it had that. But hey, Fusion's free. I hope this helps! Make On! RayvenMaker
  15. Thanks for the reply! I'm using ABS with the PVA, not PLA. The ABS wouldn't stick to plain glass, or glue, so I switched to what worked for me before—BuildTak. But PVA doesn't seem to stick to it, so I'm pretty much stuck. Either the ABS or PVA won't stick, either way... unless we can find out what's wrong.
  16. Thanks, Waternut! No, I haven't. Can't find the feature... I'm using Cura 2.3.1. Should I go ahead and mess with the g-code? Or can I just adjust the Initial Layer Height?
  17. Just posting a new topic here. Ok, I got the BuildTak, and the nozzle doesn't melt through it. score The only thing is, I can't seem to get PVA to stick. I haven't tried to put glue on the BuildTak (that just seems wrong), so I'm coming here for advice. What should I do? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks. Make On! RayvenMaker
  18. Ok, I got the BuildTak, and the nozzle doesn't melt through it. score The only thing is, I can't seem to get PVA to stick. I haven't tried to put glue on the BuildTak (that just seems wrong), so I'm coming here for advice. What should I do? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.
  19. Thanks for the tip! I'm pretty sure I have a good one, but I want to find as many faults (if they're even there) as I can before the warranty runs out. I checked the LED's wires, they're fine. Definitely—the Ultimakers are one of the best designed printers on the market: and that's coming from someone who works with SLS. I take a lot of inspiration from Ultimaker.
  20. Just got my UM3 under a week ago, and it prints like a charm—the active leveling is just what this printer needed, and the dual extrusion is better than most (more like all) of the machines I've used. I love the new UI—it's minimalist, beautiful, and well-thought out. Quality of prints absolutely blows my mind. But I spotted the same problem as Krasnoyask—the wire rubbing against the belt. It's practically a ticking time-bomb—it'll probably print great for a couple of months or so, like nothing is wrong at all... then bang, the belt starts to wear down. Give it another two months, and you'd probably lose all accuracy on the Y-axis. All outside of the warranty. :/ So, I was just curious, and I looked at the files for the UM2, and guess what I found? It has this wire rubbing issue. (just measured this: the clearance from the wall to the belt on the UM3 is 4.5mm, and 3.5mm on the UM2) Now this is weird: I had my UM2 for two years, and nothing happened with the Y belt or the Y limit switch. And the design says that the tolerance is closer on the UM2 than the UM3. Now, I don't have access to the source files of the UM3, so some of the moderators might be able to check for this, but could this be a issue with the design? Or like with Krasnoyask, could this be more quality control issues? Is there a way to fix this, other than taping the wire to the wall? Thanks guys. Here's a screenshot of the UM2's design:
  21. Ok, that sounds good then. I'll go ahead and get some BuildTak and just see what happens. Just a question though: in your tests, does the nozzle melt through the BuildTak so it can touch the glass for auto-leveling? Or does it just touch the surface? Thanks for the info on the Ultimaker ABS—once I get through my 2+ kilos of ABS from Matterhackers, I'll switch to the Ultimaker filament. I never thought ABS could be so enthusiastic about adhesion.
  22. Thanks for the tip, Erin. I tried it out last night, and it worked great... for the PVA and PLA (if I'm ever printing in those materials, your tip will be a lifesaver). ABS was a different matter—the parts would get about 12 layers in, and then pop off the buildplate. :/ Is there any way to make the brim bond better to the print? Or just a way to make the ABS stick better? And if there isn't, then how could you get the Buildtak to work? IRobertI, any ideas?
  23. Hey Ultimaker! I just got my UM3 4 days ago after having a UM2 for 2 years, and printed out the Ultimaker Robot with no problem. After that though, nothing I could do would predictably stick prints (ABS or PLA) to the glass buildplate—not even PVA will stick. I've tried the glue that was included, wider brims, fully PVA first layers, and even the dreaded raft. Nothing will stick... unless I get lucky. Sometimes, the print will randomly stick like a charm to the plain glass buildplate. And nothing I do can replicate these lucky strikes. What happened? And what should I do? That brings me to my next question: Can you use Buildtak with the new active leveling in place? I don't want to start leveling manually again (one of the main reasons I bought it), and flipping the buildplate over every time it levels seems a bit convoluted. (yes, I read this thread... I wanted to start a new one.) I know that with the Printrbot Simple, you can adjust the offset from the buildplate in Pronterface... is there a similar feature with the UM3? If not, what would be a good work-around for this? Thanks guys. Make On! RayvenMaker
  24. Is there any way to adjust the auto-leveling's sensitivity (or offset) to compensate for the BuildTak?
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