changedsoul

Thanks guy. seems the hollow out object works...sort of. The supports seems to want to start in mid air, lol. No worries, I will do the meshmixer way and add some internal supports manually.

Thats a great Idea, thanks for the video.

Ahhh I see. Yes I set infill to zero. Didn't even dawn on my that its solid, lol. I just seen it as a pumpkin that it hollow. I will try some of these experimental options. Do you know what they might be called?

That is odd, it should have generated internal supports. Maybe a bug in Cura or an issue with the stl file. Is the stl file available somewhere to download and examine? Like thingiverse...? Yes it is in fact available. Here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1042654 I scaled it up quite a bit...perhaps thats causing the issues?

Yes I tried "everywhere", the image I posted was with that setting, and nothing inside was generated.

Has anyone come up with a solution? Its not on Cura 2.7, and I still dont see a internal support option. I am trying to print this here pumpkin as hollow as I can, but the top will always fail because nothing is inside. A nice centered column would be great for the top layers to stick to. Anyone have any thoughts?

If you open a project file, you should get a question if you want to open it as a project, or if you want to import the models. If you don't, please check the "Opening and savinf files" section in the General settings. The only problem with importing the models instead of opening as a project, it doesn't retain the object placements. I arranged my models to sit on top others (had to disable the auto drop to build plate). When I open a project as a project, it loads all models as they were (stacked up), when I import just the models from the project, it doesn't retain the object placements. It has for me on 2.6.2...has it been broken in 2.7? I don't know if its broke or not, but it doesn't work for me in 2.7 Beta or in 2.6.2

If you open a project file, you should get a question if you want to open it as a project, or if you want to import the models. If you don't, please check the "Opening and savinf files" section in the General settings. The only problem with importing the models instead of opening as a project, it doesn't retain the object placements. I arranged my models to sit on top others (had to disable the auto drop to build plate). When I open a project as a project, it loads all models as they were (stacked up), when I import just the models from the project, it doesn't retain the object placements.

If its not to late, I would like to make a feature request. When importing projects, for me, I just use it for print parameters, and object placements. I only have one printer, and I have custom G-code for beginning and ending. When I import a project from a while ago, its possible I made a few changes to my printer by then, and some of the custom settings have been tweaked. Well when the import happens, I have an option to update current printer, or create a new one. Well I dont really want a new one because new printers stack up as Printer #1, #2, #3, etc....and I dont really want to update my current one because its been tweaked a bit since the last time I created this old project. Instead, an option to possibly "Ignore" printer settings in the project file, and just load object placement and other non printer specific settings?

Worked well, Thanks.

The whole folder ey? Ok, Ill give that a shot. Thanks.

So I had a catastrophic failure on my computer and had to reload. I reinstalled Cura, and I would like to reload config files from backup to get my cura back the way it was before the crash. I went digging around in AppData. I see some Cura folders, but it seems like the configuration files for printers, etc are just scattered across many files? I tried reloading some but every time I start cura, my old settings are still gone. Looks like what ever I restored is not working. Does cura store its info in the registry? Does anyone know which files need to be reloaded to get cura back the way it was?

I have spent some time playing with my coworkers printer trying to work out the kinks because he was getting similar results as you. His is not direct drive though, and even though it is not direct drive, I believe the problems are the same, his just needed a larger retract value. First thing I noticed is his retract speed was very very slow (12mm/s). What I seen was the printer actually pauses while its retracting causing the nozzle to melt the area for a but until it reaches its retract amount and rapid to the next position. You mentioned you tried increasing your speed but it never went any faster than the previous speed You may have to change the firmware settings for your max speed and or acceleration. My Coworkers was also very slow (was set at 8.3mm/s) I did some print testing with a program Sliced from Cura, but running in Reptier Host(so I could issue commands). I Issued an M203 X20000 Y20000(setting Max Speed to 333mm/s) and M201 X3000 Y3000(setting max acceleration ). Now his is a small light printer and can go pretty fast, so you will have to play with the settings and see how fast you can get yours to move. I got his going as fast as it will go without the steppers skipping steps, and I am still getting a bit of stringing, but its much better than before. So basically what I did to His printer was this: Increased his max speed so it can rapid faster, because like yours, it seemed to be clamped pretty slow. I increased his Retract speed from (12mm/s to 200mm/s) (again, test yours for best speeds) Adjusted His flowrate based on measuring the wall thickness (its now at 91%) Everything else was just playing with the retract values finding the best one. Start by changing your Z seam location to User defiened, and pick a corner of the print, maybe X0Y0, and look and see if you got something similar to this: See how at the bottom its got them holes? Thats because the Retract Extra Prime amount is set at zero, and I need to increase it until its all filled in. So far I have been moving in .5mm changes and at what looks to be about .25, its almost all filled in. If the value is set to high, then when the layer starts, you will see the wall thickness is drastically thicker than further down the layer path. Thats how you know its to high. To High it will be to thick at the start, to low it will be full of holes at the start. Unfortunately I was not able to remove all the stringing because to remove them I had to drop the temp a bit which made it look nice, but the layer adhesion was very poor. I tried slowing the print down giving the hot filament more time to try and stick, but nothing worked. I had to bump it back up to around 210C, which gave good strength, I had fine strings like the first pic. So I hope this helps you. Sorry its so long winded, and took so long to get back. I am no expert, I can only pass along what I have learned that worked for me. I hope these help you. If not, maybe you have Hot end issues. I have seen people comment on Hot end issues simply saying "Maybe you have hot end issues" but I have never seen a good example of what a hot end issue actually is. So I dont really know how to advise of there is actually an issue with your hotend.

OK, I see the M204 commands in the code. Maybe they are being applied in the wrong locations? I see M204 for both values of Print and Travel acceleration. Seems Marlin has indeed changed their use of M204. I will wait for later releases of Cura to see if these updates are applied. Thanks for the help.

...UH, ok well it seems you guys have completely missed my original question. Ignoring why I was adjusting the Print and Travel Acceleration completely, I just like to play with settings(this will by my new reason ok?). Adjusting Travel Acceleration has no effect while printing. When rapiding to a location, Cura still uses the Print Acceleration Setting.

I appreciate the comment, but this is not what I was asking. I wanted to know why the Travel Acceleration seems to have no effect.

Its my understanding Travel Speed is the speed at which the printer moves from one point to the other while not print. I would only assume then, the Travel Acceleration would be tied to the Travel Speed, and the Print Acceleration would be tied to Print Speed. I deliberately turned down my Print acceleration to control ringing and ghosting. I still want it to rapid quite fast when not printing though. When seems to be happening though is Cura ignores the Travel Acceleration value and uses the Print Acceleration for both Print and acceleration. Can someone verify this is so? Possibly a code error that can be fixed in the next release?

I just use this to adjust where my Z Zero is. A G92 Z(value) will set the Z coordinate at that value. For example, for me its hard to move my limit switch, so if I am say .5mm to far over the table when I home out Z, I add a G92Z.5 right after I reach my limit switch. That way when I home out my Z Axis, and the software Zeroes me there, I so ahhh no no no, I am really .5mm to high, so I add the G92Z.5. The issues with not slicing the inner stuff could be the model, at least thats what I have been told by others. When I contacted 3dlabs they assured me the models are fine and its the slicer and I should buy S3D(ahhh not going to happen). I dont know what the setting is in the older curas, but in 2.6, and probably 2.4/5, its in the Mesh Fixes section(hidden by default). I enabled all to be seen in the workspace, and then unchecked all the boxes, and set "Merged Meshes Overlap" to 0mm. This caused those models that would not slice internals for me to slice just fine. I dont know which setting it was that worked. I could have been just one, or all, or any combo of them, but having them all unchecked and zeroed, I was able to slice all of them. Then there was the problem of slicing when there were multiple models on the workspace. This I could not fix, and had some slice correct, and some slice hollow. This was always with the ailerons. So to fix this, the ones that sliced hollow I removed, and the ones that sliced correctly I mirrored. The way I understand it, you want just enough to remove the back pressure on the filament between the extruder gear and the print nozle. Any more is useless and only causes more problems such as under extrusion on layer starts, or filament getting jammed in the tube, etc. I am fortunate to be able to rapid to pos pretty quick which helps a lot for my stringing. I still get some, but the faster I can get from point A to point B the less time the filament has to ooze out. Z seam is where the layer starts. These may be hidden by default too, so you may need to show them in your cura version. I dont know if version 15 has it, but 2.6 does. You basically tell cura to start each layer at the same location. You set it to "User Specified" and pick an X and Y coordinate. When I forced my layers to start in the same spot, I seen why I had holes all over my prints in the past and never knew why or how to get rid of them. It was caused from under extrusion when the layer first starts, caused by oozing during the time it took to go from the previous layers last pos, to the next layers start pos. If I still had a print showing it I would post it but I dont. Anyways, by modifying the "Retraction Extra Prime Amount"(again in cura 2.6), I was able to eliminate all the holes. I have a coworker that tried to print one of the wing parts, and they seemed to get similar results as the original poster. Maybe I can borrow their printer and see if I can figure out the correct settings and what is causing the stringing and holes and report back here.

Hey, I just finished printing 2 P47's from 3d labs using Cura 2.6. I can confirm their supplied settings will work with a few speed and retract settings. What I did first, and it helped a lot, was I nailed the "First Layer Height". I printed a 1 line skirt, stopped the print, measured it, and adjusted a G92 Z in my printer config to establish a perfect First Layer Height. Next, I printed a one walled test box, about 50mm square, maybe 10mm high. Measured the wall thickness and adjusted my extruder percentage. Currently I am actually at 89% even though I calibrated my extruder steps perfectly. Not sure why its so low, but it produces awesome results. Once this is done, I printed my main parts, Fuselage and Ailerons using, 67C Built Plate, 220C Print Temp First Layer, 210C everything else. .15 - .25mm Layer Height (I am currently printing at .15, but had great results at .25 too) .4mm Wall Thickness, 0% Infill, No Top or Bottom layers. Print Speed ("Wall Speed") around 30mm/s, Travel Speed - 200mm/s Initial Layer Speed - 17mm/s Now looking at your pick, I am guessing you have an oozing problem from possible poor retract, or moving to slow from point to point to point. This is why I jacked my travel up to 200mm/s. I also have a direct drive extruder, so if yo got a bowden style, you may have to greatly increase your retract settings, but for reference if you want to try, here are mine: Enable Retraction -Yes, Retract Distance - .8mm Retraction Speed - 25mm/s Retraction Extra Prime Amount - .16mm^3 Minimum Retraction Travel - .8mm I will get back to Retraction Extra Prime in a sec. Now I was getting strange issues like you had, and I was also getting blotches all over the print, so I changed my Z seam to be aligned into the same location on the model. When I found when I did this, was every time I went to start a new layer, my nozzle would ooze a tad and when it went to start the next layer, I had a bit of an under extrusion right at the start. Very hard to see this if the Z seam is scattered all over the place randomly. Once I aligned the seam, I could clearly see the under extrusion, and so I adjusted the "Extra Prime" amount. I had to play with it a bit, but I got a good value that works pretty well. Good luck, enjoy. This was a blast trying to print these models. I wasted a whole spool of filament trying to dial it in before I printed my real one.

That looks like it gives the same results as shorting out that resistor to ground.

Thats a long time printing, lol. Just curious, for those who have printed that boat, how long were the print times usually? I have Cura set at 50mm/s Main Print speed, all else left calculated, .25mm Layer Height, 5% line infill, and Cura is calculating an Hour to print this thing. Does that sound normal? Im just getting into printing, and I have yet to grasp the size of the object/ print time relation ship. Some of the items I put on the bed, Cura calculates 12Hours to print. I never print it because it takes to long. What are some print times you guys get with this boat? Also this discussion was very informative, and I also suffer from this Automatic Mixed decay issue.

Wow thats a long thread. Yes it seems this is what I am experiencing. I have a RAMPs board that I stupidly fried the arduino and have yet to replace it, but looking at the steppers on it, they have that mixed decay enabled on them. Currently I am using a MKS cheapo board from an old budget printer(my first starter), and looking that them, they do not have that setting enabled. So it seems I will be performing the resistor short and see how it performs. Also in that post I came across the SilentStepStick :https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo?page=1 Oh man I like the way that sounds!! I may get my Ramps back up and running and drop them drivers in. Anyways, thanks for the link to that post, it was most informative.

Can anyone shed some light as to what is causing these diagonal lines that are going Top to Bottom, Right to Left?(more visible on the left half of the image) This has zero infill, so its not infill bleeding thru. I suspect its possibly just the stepper resolution when traveling around the arcs? You cant feel them. Any thoughts? This is PLA

Thanks for the detailed explanations, this answers my question quite well.

Right, but so for your case, the 60-70mm/s, is that all moves? For example, infill, top/bottom layers, external/internal walls, etc. Is everything set at a flat 60-70mm/s? Or is that a generic speed, and all sub items (walls, infill, top/bottoms) printing at a calculated different speeds.