kmanstudios
-
Posts
4,052 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
119
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by kmanstudios
-
-
I can appreciate your point of view. But I also would miss your input on many things as I have found them to be illuminating and cool ideas.
Even if you left as a Mod, I would hope that you stick around to offer your experiences as insight.
Guys like you are light years ahead of me and I appreciate all of you helping us out that are new.
-
1
-
-
Just out of curiosity: I always thought that you needed a primer color that was identical or very close to the final color, so that defects or scratches would be almost invisible. Then why would you use black as background for gold? Or does that give any special effect? Similar to the "red wine metallic on gold" that is sometimes used in special car paintings for a deeper gloss in the red metallic?
I have never had an issue with primers having radically different colours from final colours. If you layer your paints properly, you can get a thin, opaque colour cover. I have always treated primer colours as something that should expose flaws based on the colour of the substrate it is covering. Grey primer does not really show up as coverage on grey plastics. Neither does white. But black can be sanded and you can readily see where things even out or you start to sand into the plastic and not just evening out the surface.
For doing things like the black backing is for using thin layers that start out very transparent and build to the opacity you desire. This allows the light to pass through and make for richer colours on many cases. Say a black background base with a red on top can go from a very deep cherry colour to a vibrant, bright scarlet red.
It also lends towards a 'deeper' look as you described.
-
1
-
-
The tags only contain a material identifier, the actual data about the material is contained with the material database (in Cura and on the printer). So you cannot suddenly add ninjaflex without those being in the database.
But what if you could clone the TPU and *Name* it as NinjaFlex. Same with cloning say a CPE+ or nylon but naming it PETG.
In a way, that is what we are doing now....choose a profile in Cura that matches closely to what we want to start with and then choose the generic variant on the machine.
Although not a technically elegant solution, it could save a few steps for users and prevent the need to remember which variant you are starting from.
-
You would have to ask Monty Python
-
I agree with the images or the model to have a better chance of evaluation, but have you tried the support horizontal expansion? It defaults to 3mm and I routinely turn it down to 0.25mm, sometimes a value of 0.5mm and even 0mm sometimes. saves a lot on PVA too.
-
I am going to buy a hygrometer to measure the percentage of humidity. We are in the south of China, but it's quite good status in the north of China. Is it really so sensitive to humidity?
I have been to Hong Kong, Shenzhen and Guangzhou and if your humidity is anything like that, then yep, I am surprised it did not turn to near liquid. And, yes, PVA, any PVA, is that sensitive to moisture in the air.
-
I use a degreasing soap to clean. I was having the same issue and it was needing a real thorough cleaning. Even though I could squeak my fingers across the glass when cleaning, I still had to use the degreaser and really hot water.
Even then, I wipe with isopropyl alcohol (99% is best) on the buildplate and then apply my stick-um stuff to the glass while heating it up.
Another thing: It seems the UM series of buildplate glass is made so that one side is more able to hold things than the other side. I forget if it is sticker side up or down.
-
There are food safe filaments, but the act of printing will not let it be food safe unless you have a science level clean room to print and seal it with. The sealant would have to be food safe as well. All materials would have to be contained and handled in a sterilized way and area.
Once that container is open, it is fair game to airborne pathogens and sneeze stuff, etc as well as what is floating around inside the build area.
So, even if the hotend cooks out the organisms, then there is a lot of secondary ways of being contaminated.
Also, most food safe filaments do not really stand up to the cleaning temps needed to keep it clean without softening.
-
I have noticed that curling on edges with some filaments will create this issue.
In addition to gr5's suggestions, which the starting point, try to cut back on the print temperature and slow down the printing. This will make the heat differential less of an issue and let the fans sit on the part longer.
-
1
-
-
My computer is rendering out an animation right now and cannot start Cura, but there is a plugin called (Something like this) Change at Z.
Another option is to make the cylinder separate from the sphere. Place them in proper orientation and make sure the picot points are the same location.
Bring both objects into Cura and then use per object settings to set speed independently for each object and then go to Edit: Merge Models.
Then each part will have its own speed.
-
There is nothing wrong with moving to a larger base for many jobs. I just wonder why they are trampling on the businesses that did do well and remain small. Kinda think there should be a way to do both in some way or another.
Again, the ratings system should weed out the wheat from the chaff and provide a guide without tossing the well performing small guys.
-
I have not followed this thing but 3dhubs posted an answer here:
Still a bit on the iffy side. Whether the user in question was trying to move customers away still does not alleviate the issues mentioned below the answer. The system is not listing all printers, many printer orders drying up.
I have no idea of whether these printers complaining made money off lacking business practices, but that is what a rating system is for. Also, a business that used to get say 10%, then dropping top 4% then virtually nothing when the system is implemented points to an issue with the new system.
Though the OP did say 3D Hubs is dead (maybe philosophically?), it has changed and maybe not for the better for those who depended on them.
-
Thanks guy. seems the hollow out object works...sort of. The supports seems to want to start in mid air, lol. No worries, I will do the meshmixer way and add some internal supports manually.
that would depend on your internal support structure. If you use gradual infill, it will replace that with PVA and do as you say.
-
That looks like the filament that is extruded before starting the print. That is why it is on one side only and in the same place; where the printing is started from. Maybe try lowering your temp and speed a bit.
-
Also, which print core(s) are clogging? Pics would help too.
-
Wow....that is not good. Really sad to think of building a brand off of independents and then tossing them aside.
-
If you are not allowed to operate the printer yourself (like in schools where students have to submit their designs to an operator), your best bet would be to kindly educate the operator. He may not be aware of bed leveling methods or bonding methods. Don't blame him or her, but offer help and give facts: that is easier accepted.
Really depends on the area of the college it is located in. One college with different campuses I worked at were diametrically opposite. One was run with a closed off/fiefdom type of attitude and would not share information or take suggestions.
The other was more open to information, but could still be a bit testy about 'help from the students/lowerlings.' "I know what I am doing, I have a degree" really is getting to be a problem. At least in America in my experience.
-
All filaments marked as being susceptible to moisture are such. They all need to be kept in a dry box or sealed bag with desiccant. There is not false info in those warnings. Too many people ignore them and then blame the printer or software.
-
Perhaps there is an open source STL validator that could be integrated into Cura?
If there is an open source STL validation program/utility, does it really need to be inside Cura? Seems better as a standalone and not clutter up Cura. Folding something like that in could be an issue.
-
Without direct access to the plate itself, I do not think Cura can overcome the possible physical issues with the plate. Things like:
Not cleaned completely
Not primed with glue, salt or some other adhesive issues
Not perfectly level for some reason
Any other physical issue that may occur with the axis armatures or nozzles.
-
You can also just click on "Hollow out objects" in the experimental section. It allows for the printing of supports. But you cannot have your infill set to zero. It takes that infill number and applies it to a PVA support system inside the object.
-
I have had to use an airbrush needle sometimes to get the main clog out and then use a bit of a 'pumping or plunging' action on the cleaning filament to get to break stuff loose.
Be careful sticking something in there as you can flare out the nozzle ends if you are not careful or scratch the interior making it grab the plastics much more later on.
-
I was wondering if he meant pillowing.....did not occur to me to think of 'hairy'.
-
Try the "print thin walls" option in the hidden tabs. You can open preferences and unhide a ton of settings I see you still have hidden.
YouMagine covered in spam
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
You forgot one, cleverly disguised
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/3d-rendering-services-interior-rendering
Nawwww, those are Three Dee printed people!!