kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Did you do a factory reset? That seems to have caused people troubles.
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I looked at this program many moons ago and rejected it because of its download size (419MB).
Yeah, the days of super large programs is here now.
I used a much-loved music program in a past life called C-Lab Creator which was 1MB (floppy) in size, ran on an Atari1040ST and was lightning fast...but it turned me into a sizephobe
.The Atari was a really hip machine. And, yeah, I remember when you could carry your programs AND files on one or two floppies.
17 years tutoring - you're a smart guy and a treasure for the folks here. (however I won't hold you to mythical perfection!)Yeah, I get corrected a lot here. But it is worth it to learn. Just yesterday I tried to remake a file for someone and made a goof on it. sigh........Dunno how smart I am though...I see guys here that just blow me away.
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3D Modeling can be a pain. Mainly because the language used by the makers of the software use sloppy language.
Example: Specularity can be called, gloss, shine, etc.
Example: Surface of Revolution can be called a lathe, revolve, etc.
Man did you ever hit the nail on the head with this one! You're not telepathic are you? I could not believe the looseness of the language used in some progs and tutorials - and the web generally
I'm just checking out your link, thank you kman.
I taught 3D for about 17 years at a university. It used to frustrate me about how confused people would get when they would get half assed info from the internet and then try to break the old habits and instill new, solid fundamental habits, along with proper language.
But, even so, it can get sloppy when speaking to people because we all tend to get used to speaking within one area of discipline. What we called texture is just materials/shaders in the usual virtual world. But texture in this industry is the actual detail relief of the mesh object. And, it can get a bit confusing.
Good luck with Designspark. I know several people here have used it and really speak to its abilities.
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3D Modeling can be a pain. Mainly because the language used by the makers of the software use sloppy language.
Example: Specularity can be called, gloss, shine, etc.
Example: Surface of Revolution can be called a lathe, revolve, etc.
Although they all use basically the same paradigms when in certain modes of operations. Nurbs will always be like nurbs, mesh will always have triangles, etc.
It is tough to recommend a package as each one can be the magic tool just because it suits a thought process of the individual who is using it. Person A can love program A but it is anathema to Program B and vice versa.
Have you tried doing any tutorials for the individual packages you have tried to learn? Some are better than others. But one that lays out solid fundamentals really solves a lot of troubles for you. That is the problem with most learning materials you can find: They tell you how to make something by way of step 1, step 2, etc, but they do not let you know the "how" of it working so that you can build on it.
Have you tried Design Spark Mechanical?
https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/our-software
I hear really good things about it and I did like the trial version of its high end cousin, "Spaceclaim."
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Try cutting back on your temperature. I have found that going back about 5°C has done wonders for my prints.
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Could be the model too.
What material are you using?
How deep is the text supposed to be?
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Hey, I appreciate it :)I will have to look at the netfabb thing that he posted to see how it turned out. That thing was a mess. Sadly, too many people do not know how to model.
That thing was a mess.
I did do a double check on it and cleaned it just a bit further if you want to re-up the file. The same link works as I just overwrote the previous file. It was a bit of guess work with jutting angles and corners.
http://www.kmanstudios.com/Nikon SB-600 Flash Color Filter Adapter (Vivitar 2800)_Fixed.STL
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I have only tried a tiny bit with Cheetah or Armadillo. And, nothing that small. But maybe if you cut the temp back a bit?
That would be my first try and then second would be to slow down the print speed.
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you are welcome
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I am not sure I understand....
These are PVA supports with no issues.
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If you are on Cura 2.3 or later (that is when I started using Cura), go to the configure Cura under the 'Preferences' drop down. In settings uncheck the "Automatically drop models to the build plate."
It may have been called something else in the past. But that will give you a lot of freedom to put in any value into the z field in the move type in box and it will hold that value.
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you could try last layer polish (I think that's what it is called in latest versions of Cura), if that does not fix it then you could try z hop with retraction - but it will lengthen print times
You may be referring to the 'ironing' in experimental features.
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Wow...the forum is really cranky today. It has eaten every one of my replies and just now would not display an inserted link properly.
Cannot get fixed fast enough!!
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Forum is really bad today...eating replies and now will not even display a link properly. Grrrrrrrrr
Wow, that was a sloppy file. I am surprised you could get anything out of it.
I went ahead and remade it by 'tracing' over the master file and snapping at its vertex points. I am not sure if it could have been fixed. I have no idea how anybody ever got anything printed off that.
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Damned forum ate my reply,......GRRRrrrrrrrrr *TWICE!!!* At least this time I copied it before posting.
OK, I went into a file I am actually using and created some examples of what I meant.
This is the setup file with actual measurements in mm.
This is the resulting slice and you can see it picks up all the pieces as needed. In this case, the really tiny bumps (0.107mm) are meant to be just bumps to act as a slide stop. Will I need it to be larger? I will find out. But, you can see that the slicer did pick up the detail at approximately 1/4 the nozzle size. And, the lettering is very sharp now because it is slightly larger than nozzle size. And, this is only at 0.2mm layer height.
This is an actual prototype print I made, that is smaller in physical size than the images I am showing above. The print was only about 0.2 mm deep and that is why I did offset the type just over nozzle width in the newer, larger model.
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Do keep in mind that the minimum-sized features in 3D printing are not small - any texture applied would have to be fairly coarse to have details visible.
Define 'coarse.' It will always be limited in X & Y by way of nozzle size for wall thicknesses and in the Z by way of layer depth.
But a subtle inset can be achieved because it is an offset of the outer wall and not limited by nozzle size.
I may have to cobble up something that shows what I mean if this is not clear.
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Until the UM3 series can be modded up to withstand those temps, I am stuck in envy land. But I am watching this thread to learn for the future.
Thanks for sharing!
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Be adventurous young person.....dare to be wild!! Have fun
That made me laugh kman. You know the saying: Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups...I'll turn 76 next January
Did not know that saying, but I always lived by "Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained."
Pfffft, physical age has nothing to do with it until it is time to move. You are only about 9 years older than me, so I know you groan a bit when you have to bend over and squat and hear the pops and clicks, but the brain, it still thinks you are 18
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That is a good idea in my thinking.
But as a single printer user, let me 'splain my process that I have found good for me, at least:
- Slice prints
- Send to queue in the connect
- Each slice is something that will have a different colour or something that makes it stop until I override the settings
- Slice and send, slice and send, etc....
- At each pause, I will change glass plates, wipe with alcohol, brush on PVA slurry and then override the settings to let it print
- I adjusted the active level settings to always to make sure the active level corrects for changes in glassplate thickness.....yes, it can be that critical, especially if your glass plates come from different sources (lotso' reasons for that)
- Rinse and repeat as needed
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- Slice prints
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Echoing the above, start small and work your way up, you will find a lot of things to print, that you need to print to test the machine.
- Overhang tests
- Cubes...yes cubes to practice with different things and easy to check reliability
- Things that need PVA and things that do not
If you start out like I did, you will burn through a lot of plastic just making the basic things to get adjusted to the process, like what you see in your slicer (an approximation of what it will print) and what will actually print, difference between layer height qualities for certain objects (Steep curves vs. Shallow curves), different infills and different wall thicknesses.
It may seem crazy, but a lot of 30 minute prints beat the heck out of hours or even day long prints for fine tuning your process. Also, you have to figure in failed prints, which will happen from time to time. It lessens as you gain experience, but, it is tech. And, tech will fail at the weirdest times. "Murphy's Law" was named for a reason.
Also, above, you can see that filaments are just like anything else: People will have varying favourites. But, starting with Ultimaker filaments are not a bad place to start and check a different brand every now and then.
The Ultimaker filaments are what is coded for in the base Cura Setups and much easier to mess with when learning.
But, I have used Faberdashery and ColorFabb.
I like Faberdashery, but the fact that it is not on a spool really sucks for me. I also prefer the Colorfabb PLA/PHA stuff as it seems the most consistent from spool to spool and colour to colour.
Do not be afraid of off brands like Matterhackers. They are not too bad and I use the heck out of their PVA.
You will also start out with one idea and it will morph over time into different things as you gain experience. For instance, I started out with the idea that colour made no difference. That is because I started out using a model making sensibility: Piece it, glue it, sand it, paint it, finish it. But as soon as I discovered how to make translucent objects to use in lighting, I gots boatloads of colours in the transparents and translucents, and in PLA, PETG and whatnot to see which ones work well.
And, finally, have a ball!! Have fun!! And, stick around...there is so much to learn and I keep learning just by reading almost everything in every thread to find and draw parallels. Even though I am on a UM3E, I find great info from any printer and response as it is still all the same basic philosophy.
- Overhang tests
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Nothing to worry about.....just find the proper opening and you will see that you actually have a working T.A.R.D.I.S.
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I appreciate your input kman! I'll fiddle with support and see what happens.
Be adventurous young person.....dare to be wild!! Have fun
And keep us posted. I would love to know your results.
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kman - what has me baffled is if the mask is printed vertically, how to go about supporting it on the print bed. I have one nozzle for PLA and that's it.
How would I specify the type of supports needed for this type of vertical model? What do such supports look like? I've read a bit about supports but until I do it it won't make sense. I need to learn this or I'm holding myself back from being more adventurous
I have to admit that I am greatly spoiled by the UM3E and its two nozzles. I wish I could give a better answer to you.
I am hoping someone with better understanding of single nozzle support systems could explain how it would be applied.
But, just for kicks and giggles, try to use the default support settings in Cura for a single extruder. What have you got to lose other than some plastic and gaining more experience so that when you get an answer, it can make more sense.
It will require some cleaning, but it may not be that bad.
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Sure kman, here you go
As I have seen that model on another site, a lot of the issues you speak of can be cleaned out if you can print the mask vertically and not laying face down on the plate. It has to do with the 'resolution' of the layering and curvature. It is really no different than a low res bitmapped image that you can see the stair steps in. That is why it looks like a topo map.
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Printing problems since you update the UM3 firmware to 4.0.1.20171023
in Firmware
Posted
Dim3nsioneer said it properly. Welcome to when my communication skills go kaflooey.
Thanks for getting that straight.