kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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3 hours ago, brandon_ums5 said:
Hi,
I've been having the same issue with my S5, my flow sensor cable has come loose as a result of trying to plug it back in with such a short wire! Could you please share the link to the replacement cable on fbrc8?
Thanks
Order a replacement wire. They lengthened it and now is spiffy as all get out. I did this and it was easy to replace. I can say this because there are deficiencies due to a minor stroke.
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Awesome modeling skills 🙂 Great print too!
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Cool! I look forward to seeing it. Follow up in this thread so I get a notification. 🙂
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57 minutes ago, Armatron said:
... so i did the 3dprint online thing.
Hahahahha, yeah, I did the same thing just to try and see the difference in 'at home' and a 'service' printing and came up with the same results. And, I did not even get to choose the layer depth, so, yeah, at home, time is your valuable asset here. When I want things to look good, I always go 0.06 layer height and be damned the time. The machine can work while I sleep.....
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This was a question posed by email and I would like to attempt to answer here for everybody to see:
" any tips on how i can get a nice quality look and maybe advice on acetone dipping on PLA+. "
@cloakfiend is the go to guy for Acetone dipping, and also for plating parts.
Now, a nice quality look is very different as it is subjective. At the layer height of 0.2mm will show layer lines. Going to 0.1 or even 0.06 would make a very good looking model, but your printing times go up very much. Some have no issue with minute layer lines and others want to have a smooth surface.
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OK...this is what I got. I left the tree supports on, turned on supports everywhere and printing time shows as just over 10 hours.
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And this is where my limitations since the stroke.....I got 9 hours, but cannot see any support structure in the slice. I am completely unfamiliar with anything but a UM S5 on the hardware end and know what to expect when it comes to supports and things like that.
Will continue to investigate. Supports are on but seems to not be generated. Will see what I can figure out, but.....
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22 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
@kmanstudios long time no hear from nonetheless.
How about if you pretend time is not an issue and give it a slice? I'm good at printing "angle iron brackets" so this is a bit out of my comfort zone. Mr. Buonarroti would be horrified if he saw what I would do to it.
Sure,
Edit: I am looking at the 3mf file....duhhhhh
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16 hours ago, GregValiant said:
@kmanstudios hasn't been around much lately
Believe it or not, I am here every day. I just do not have much to say. But, I am here every day. 🙂 It is part of my 'morning rounds.' And, I would be happy to take a look at models and such.
Going through the thread, it seems to not be a model issue, but a time issue. I am known for my two week prints. Seriously.....
So, for time, I may not be the guy to ask as my priority has been the quality of how it looks, not time.
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I have known @MariMakes for a while. Not closely, but primarily during the early S5 time. I cannot think of a better person to fill the space left by @SandervG.
Sharp, sharp person, indeed 🙂
Edit: @SandervG did you ever consider auditioning for voice overs? Think about it.....
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I just remembered, set your modeling program's to mm. That way it will stay in proper scale when the stl comes into the slicer.
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54 minutes ago, ndsugi said:
1. If the STL is scaled in the slicer, does it matter what size it is? Is scaling it in Cura degrading the original work? I can go back and use Scale plugin in zbrush is that's something I have overlooked.
absolutely....By working at print size, you are not guessing about thicknesses and such.
55 minutes ago, ndsugi said:2. Should I consider just mounting the mask onto a bust/head and reworking the model to be less front/back and more mostly the front. As in boolian/fuse the rear of the mask into a solid? I don't know how I could fill in the other voids, particularly in the feathery blooms. If the finer long pieces in the bottom portion of the mask are too thin, perhaps fusing it into a face for further work is my only option.
Edited 51 minutes ago by ndsugi
One thing to keep in mind is that unless you are really sold on that specific model, you will spend much more time fixing rather than just starting over with things being corrected whilst modeling. That is a really complex thing to dig into to find voids. Actually easier to remodel and learn rather than fight, and get frustrated, with a first model. Which by the way is a very nice looking piece. Your modeling will only improve as you look at things during construction phase. Also, you would be surprised at how thick you can make something and it still look 'thin'.
I printed a commercial model and had to spend a bit of time removing the voids in very long process....but the print came out a bit better since it did not have extra 'skins' and internal support material (I used PVA which is expensive) that never needed to be there. It also slowed down printing making all that extra stuff too.
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I was sent the STL File and I noticed a few things right off the bat.
Caveat:
I do not have the same printer so my slicing results will be slightly different. To make sure that someone who evaluates slicing issues receive the Project files as it will save all the printer info as well as the model.
OK, first thing, Work at scale you will print at (Print size or 1:1). Or at least close to it. This was the size the raw stl file when I imported it.
This makes it very difficult to figure the next part if you are not at print size in design.
Second thing: Your planes are too thin for the slicer at 0.1. The grey area is where the slicer cannot slice.
The third thing is that is filled with voids. A lot of this could have been made solid. When you stack objects to make details, modeling programs cannot automatically fill voids.
There were (most of the object) were stacked objects that formed voids like the one on the left side.
If you made an object like the crappy cross section above, The void is wasted everything: Wasted material and time. Just make sure if you have a real undercut that needs to be preserved, you would make the object like the right image.
This should get you started. Post again if you have questions.
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5 hours ago, GregValiant said:
You know I hate having to explain...
Oreo cookies are the best in this arm of the galaxy.
Here is the proper way to eat an Oreo.
Oatmeal cookies are second best (IF they have nuts and raisins).
Animal Crackers may be called crackers but they are actually cookies.
And welcome back.
Toll House and Snickerdoodles for me. Especially with a chocolate kiss inserted right after leaving the oven. 😄
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I am lost on the reference...duhhhhhhh
Edit: I saw that there was no upload of a file and no resolution as to any potential issues.
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On 8/4/2022 at 6:45 AM, GregValiant said:
In regards to errors in models: There are serious errors like "not watertight" that can confuse a slicer and keep it from slicing, and there are lessor errors that allow a model to slice but cause it to slice incorrectly. Those are the kind that are difficult to figure out when a model is highly complex. The third kind are errors that don't matter. The model slices correctly in spite of them.
You don't have the first type of error but the second type requires a close eye on the preview to insure that the model will print as it should. If it does look as it should then the error is of the third type which just don't matter.
@kmanstudios and @cloakfiend do a lot more "fine" work than I do. Maybe they would have a suggestion on how to print something like this successfully, and what pitfalls to watch out for.
Sorry for the delay in replying. I literally took all this time to figure what I had messed up after clearing a bunch of cookies.
But, yeah, I can look at models if the OP wants.
Now to read the rest of the thread. LOL
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Storage container?
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11 hours ago, GregValiant said:
Now quit fooling around and get back to work.
I had the S5 up and operating within an hour (took my time....) and it is currently on a long print...got 8 days and 22 hours left....not gonna make shipping in time for the holidays, but it is printing nicely!
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i got a replacement cable from FBC8 (awesome service!) and once replaced, it works like it should now. So, I managed to not fry the system when I butchered the feeder wires. Also, the new cable is a bit longer and that will prevent me from crunching the wire in the future...now I can get my fingers in there easily 🙂
Thanks for the input folk!!!
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25 minutes ago, Torgeir said:
Forgot one thing..
I'm assuming (🤔) that the firmware detect "a loss" of this sensor, -and will not continue printing before the error is fixed..
So, even if you deselect it, there is still an error preventing the printer to work.
I wonder if the logs I posted say anything about that?
6 minutes ago, GregValiant said:That isn't my favorite Loki though...
My daughter in law is a huge Tom Hiddleston fan, so the model is just so spot on in the face. Back in the day when I could model from scratch (kinda blown out by a mini stroke in the planning dept. and have a hard time following things in my head) that would have been a bit of a struggle to make that so well. Fortunately I have no real impairments like other stroke victims.
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16 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
Just to remind you sir...you can't fix a short by lengthening it.
Oh crap!! I just got the joke!!
I am so sloooowwww these days LOL
😂
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9 minutes ago, GregValiant said:
Just to remind you sir...you can't fix a short by lengthening it.
Yup, And, thanks for the reminder. I will be doing any work with power off and unplugged. Short splicing with a shrink wrapper to remove all chances of wire contact and really frying the system.
Fbrc8 has responded (like there was any doubt 🙂 ), the connector is inexpensive and will be getting one as soon as I get a link to the proper connector.
Fortunately, I have a UM3E that is printing the last pieces of a model I purchased for two of my children.
This is the model and I printed it at 150% which makes it big.
https://www.gambody.com/3d-models/hela-throne
One is printed and ready to paint.
And my Loki is printed completely and waiting for painting as well. This is the model.
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1 hour ago, GregValiant said:
Those other wires don't look so good either.
Yeah, my fine motor skills are not what they used to be. I am in contact with fbr8 (serial numbers to identify correct S5) to get a replacement. I am thinking of just cutting the rest of the wires off that connector and do a wire colour to wire colour soldering and heat shrink wrap.
I always thought that the connector wires were too short. This way, splicing them will make them a tad longer so it is not so easy to slip.
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Here is the pic you requested.
What I am confused about is that the connector is left off and I turned off the sensor.
Also, it goes through all motions until it is ready to actually print. If it can control the motion for that, what is missing at print time?
Thanks for your quick response. 🙂
In the meanwhile, I spent this morning cutting up the final piece (cut into three) to fit on my UM3E. Just spoiled by the S5 print area.
Need help. About to throw this S5 out the window..... Motion Controller 200euro reward to who can fix it.
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by kmanstudios
It was brought to my attention that more info may be needed.
I just emailed FBRC8 and just told them the feeder number and a general description like the OP did in the message. They got back to me and resolved any further issues.