kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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When I have more free time, I gonna have to give this a shot. I am thinking one cannot have enough filament dryers.
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When you say you can get it out in 'manual', what do you mean?
You say you are on a UMO+, but have you updated your firmware?
And you have done cold pulls to really make sure it is cleaned? Even if you can get it out in 'manual', is it coming out fully or smaller than it should be?
For instance, when I use 'move filament' on my UM3E (not sure if there is an equivalent on the UMO+) it could come out, but not in full diameter and would clog during a print very quickly. And, it would come out if I took a piece of filament and pushed it in by hand with the bowden tube uncoupled.
Deep cleaning solved both issues.
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I like it
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Forum ate my reply...Grrrrrrrr
I have done this myself, more times than I care to admit.
I would be for the color bar on the side and not the whole text fields otherwise certain colors could make issues for people with color sensitivities and, some colors and text just do not work well at all.
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I have not had that problem with either Win 10 or 8.1.
I am running on I7 chips and Nvidia graphics on all my machines.
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I have found that sanding is only good if painting; at least for me so far. But I did find that using an x-acto knife does a pretty good job of someone is decent at whittling.
You can also cover it with a clear coat of some kind too.
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just to be clear..... the polybox is just a box with desiccant bags, good for prevention, but does not do anything more than any plastic container. It can not be used to actually dry out filament that already absorbed to much moisture.
It is a little more than just a box. It gots da bowden tubes to guide the filament and the hygrometer is nice to keep an eye out on how moist the environment and the built in rollers to all for easy spooling.
But, you are right, it will not dry out filament that is already soaked.
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You can filter by printer or material in 3dhubs to get a more realistic competition. Nowadays people can buy a printer with 99-199 bucks and use the chepest possible filament, it's hard to compete in price.
By the way 3dHubs are turning to a plataform for industrial printers, they are changing the focus as far as I know. My hub is the more expensive in my city, sometimes people find me in 3dHubs and goes to my site, because of that I still with my account there.
This reminds me of the time when everybody thought they could make a good website because they could get Dreamweaver and did not need to learn how to hard code anything. Drove the price down dramatically to the point I got out of the biz completely.
And, yeah, knowing the time it takes to print these things, and using a decent filament, and expensing out the amortization of these things, I cannot beat the price.
I do have on thing going for me though: I am experienced 3D modeler and model maker, so I can provide more than just a print service. They did tell me that a few companies they contacted were ambivalent about the prospects because it is not the usual trinket or tool type of output like I see offered on Shapeways or other services.
I have not gone to other places locally though that are more high end. But, I shall endeavor to persevere.....
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that dry box looks exacly like a food hydrator lol. not sure what they actually did to get there.
there is also this
a more unique design.
I actually have both of those.
For the Printdry system, it is spaced to hold two or more spools, so, taller 'cabinets' so to speak. There is also a hole in the side you can use to allow it to also be used as a spooling device.
A decent food dehydrator will cost around that price point, depending on the quality you want. Some way lower, some way higher too. But, I am sure it is just modified tech, with most modifications being to the size and design of the trays.
The Polybox is great too. I cannot believe how much better the PVA is printing now. Still a bit of cleanup, but nothing bad. And it prints so solid now....no more webby type of supports.
So, why the two systems> Well, sometimes a filament container can get ripped in shipping (Had it happen recently on two spools of PVA) because, not everybody uses a sealed box. Or, the storage I have used was not sealed as well as I thought. So, Printdry cooks out any moisture without taking up valuable print time by doing so on the printer and the polybox keeps it all dry while printing.
And, maybe I had a bit more money at the moment than I had brains.....Of course, 'anything' more than brains is mostly the case anyway....
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Wow....I just uploaded a file to 3D Hubs for a price check.....there is no way I could compete with that.
It could not verify printability though. I know it prints, I am doing it.
But for what I spec'd, 3D Hubs cost $5.00 USD. Not very realistic though. Wonder what type of hack work would be put out by people trying to overcome the incredible price drop. And, I know it would take me about 14 hours to print let alone clean and assemble. And without attention to things like spread, or such, it could render the model unusable.
ugggghhhhh.......
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Those are both very valuable viewpoints. Fortunately, this is a company that I just did some animation for and is a work in progress for both of us.
They are very interested in what I showed them: A crappy prototype print that I took in when I went to have lunch with one of the guys that hooked me up with the job.
They did like it, even though it was really crappy. Just gotta find that price point and as mentioned, valued time.
But, thank you both for helping
I will have to factor that all in. It is just so strange because I purchased the printer to learn on and have fun with....I never really considered making money with it. 40 years in the biz, in one way or another and I am now thrown for a loop. -
I had to go play a bit. seems that gr5 is absolutely correct on pivot points being specific to programs and not across the board.Yeah do what kman said.
But maybe ignore about the pivot point thing - that's cad specific. For my cad (DSM) I put the two models on 2 different layers so I can turn off one layer at a time and export to 2 different STL files. Basically the x,y,z coordinates of the 2 stl files have to match such that cura knows how to put them back together.
Learn something new every day no matter how old you are
So, make sure how your programs operates.
For instance, programs like 3DS MAX & Maya will require pivot points being allocated to the same space.
Not sure about blender or other programs though and not familiar with a CAD package like ACAD or others of that ilk; 2D or 3D.
I did a test in 3D Coat and it is not an animation package so I found that it held position based on export to file format readable by Cura.
This would be good to get a list compiled of programs that do not require pivot points and those that do for creating multicolored prints.
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I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this. But I do need tips on pricing out prints.
So far, I have been playing in the field of the mind and just making crazy things without worry of making a buck or even a penny off this thing. I got it primarily to learn about 3D printing, materials and how to design for FDM printing.
But, as luck would have it, someone is asking for a price based on what they have seen me do.
I know about the cost of filament. That is easy. But one print that has the same filament (or there abouts) can take either 8 hours or two days.
Then there is the other aspects I am sure I have not even began to consider. I do not want to set a bad precedent, but do not want to go nuts either. This would not be an "Art Job." Like a lot of my prints are....goofy things that if someone wanted it, I could price based on different criteria. But this would be a basic, run of the mill job and I am a bit lost on pricing.....not my strongest suit I can say for sure.
Any tips about this would be greatly appreciated.
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Standard Model glue, ala Testors, works well with ABS as it is made to work with Polystyrene plastics as a chemical weld.
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What slicer and version are you using? Also, what Printer?
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With a high quality PLA 60 deg should not be an issue unsupported on an UM3. It even works on an UM2+ which has a bit less cooling power due to the different type of fans. Just make sure you have 100% of the cooling power available. And be aware that the most of the cooling comes from the left and from the right (a bit more from the left if you use the left printcore slot).
If you have not yet done so you might want to use a higher layer thickness. 0.15mm gives walls almost as nice as 0.1mm but take much less time to print.
Adding to this (Which is spot on), I suggest that when you have time, print some overhang tests such as these:
I printed this one and
All of them have different conditions such as some are thinner and will bounce more, etc. But I found that I can print up to about 65° without issues on the underside. After that, it starts to have underside issues.
If the underside is not visible, then I found a decent top surface with an 80° overhang. Bridging would be a separate issue.
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I do not know about that. Usually when you see that, it is a 'print in place' type of model. But when I looked at the file, I noticed there was no 'breaker gap'. That makes sense since you would want the ratchet action to be tight and not slip at all.Yes you're right I have seen the single parts but I thought anyway that I could print the whole design in place. Otherwise what's the meaning of uploading a file which contains the fully assembled wrench? It's just a prop? -
I took a look at the file. That was most helpful as you will need to print the parts separately and then assemble. What you printed was the assembled wrench.
There are two files called assembly2.stl and assm.stl. These are so you can see how those parts look when assembled, but all the other parts need to be printed and then put together to look like the final printed assembly.
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Ok...That does make sense. I had wondered about the holes in the lid, but figured someone had a reason.
Cannot think of one and it did not intrude on my setup, but it does make sense.
Thanks for sharing
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.......i will just make 1 modification, 2 exit holes for the filament in the base section for easy switching of materials.
There are three holes already.... at the top and bottom of the clear casing. I am not sure I understand what you mean about making 2 exit holes.
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Both of these products look very valuable in keeping the filament dry. I have just bought an Ultimaker 3 and so am looking at all the different features, both of the printer and all associated products. I have a couple of questions :-
1. I am assuming that the filament feeding from either of these boxes still has to be fed by the filament feeder on the back of the machine? Otherwise how would it feed to the print cores?
That is correct. But, since it does not make that sharp turn it does not require the filament guide in the first spool position. It also serves to help loosen or straighten the filament by not remaining so wound up at all points. If you look at the pics, you will find that it has plugable filament holes on top and bottom of the clear case, 3 positions of each.
2. If the filament is fed directly from the protection boxes and not on the reel holder on the printer, then I assume that it bypasses the filament recognition device on Ultimaker 3 filament reels. In which case this function becomes obsolete and it is the LED display that has to be set to whatever filament is used?
If you are using Ultimaker spools, then there is a work around. Put an empty spool on the spool holder to tell Ultimaker what it is using.
However, since a lot of filaments are 3rd party (Colorfabb, Polymaker, etc) this can still be used as a work around. Especially if you print a lot of the same filament choices.
Or, in that case, you would be selecting the filament manually.
But, having the empty spool holders, you can hang empty filament spools anyway no matter what brand you are using.
When I was looking at the Polybox, I had to evaluate my own designs or mods to existing designs. For instance, I wanted to use a bowden tube to bridge from the dry box to the filament guide. Just purchasing the bowden tube alone is almost 30% the cost of the Polybox, and even more as you can load 2 standard size (around 0.75 kg) and they give you enough for feeding two spools, so that ups the amount saved to 60% of the basic cost of the product. Then I added on the time to print, the cost of the plastics, factored in a failure or two and even the thermo-hygrometer and battery and it came out a lot cheaper. For me at least. And, I can keep printing the things I want to focus on.
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keeping the pva ALWAYS in a closed box with moisture absorbent, also when printing, really helps. I uise a simple cheap box with a printed spool holder;
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3
There are also commercial boxes available but they really don't do more than any plastic container;
The one you linked to is nice though. I got it just to save time and materials in making the same thing. But, it was the built in thermo-hygrometer that sold me. And, it comes with rechargeable desiccant.
I just started using it with the PrintDry system and it has made a world of difference in how well it prints now with PVA.
This is where I go in depth on both products and my experience so far.
I am currently drying out some PC materials and will continue to dry out others. I just put them into the PrintDry and 'slow cook' them on lower than normal temps.
It can also be mentioned that the PrintDry can be used as a filament spooler, but I want to be able to switch out filamenst for printing without disturbing the drying process.
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I am on board with Space Mouse connections. I fell in love with mine because every danged program out there uses a different combination of mouse moves to navigate and I can set mine to a common set of actions. Does speed up the process on everything.
And...now I will not be able to get that out of my head either
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Ok, before I start, let me say that there are a gazillion great things out there to print that can do what I describe below. I purchased these products because:
(A) Time considerations
And
(B) Would rather take the filament and use expensive stuff for other things.
One item I purchased as the "Print Dry" setup. The second thing is that I got the Polybox from Polymaker.
I just came off a huge job and just got around to setting things up today. I did get the Printdry setup a week ago and did put my PVA in there to 'slow cook' and just let it sit while the printer finished a 6 day print and I finished the job.
The Polybox is super easy to put together. It is mostly all done, just putting the battery in the thermo-hygrometer, Dropping the desiccant into its compartment and slapping some bearings on the rollers for the spools.
And it has made a huge difference. First off, no more crackling and popping on the PVA. The PVA is solid and not 'webby' like it used to be. So, the PrintDry took some really humidity absorbed PVA and rejuvenated it. That is very pleasing. Even with the low humidity we had over the last week, it still is an improvement.
The Polybox feeds very well and solves one of the issues I had with oversized spools and that has made a difference. It comes with a bowden tube to feed from the box to the feeder and due to it being a straight feed from the spool out to the feeder on the UM3E, I do not get binding like I used to. I never really got that with low weight spools, but some that I buy are not configured to get on the UM3E's feeder arm properly and the filament guide.
All in all, I have noticed a marked improvement on the PVA and think it may be helping the PLA not have humidity as well.
So, if you have troubles with your PVA at least (or really any other hygroscopic filaments) I suggest you make a dry box or purchase one. The Print Dry has excellent temp controls and does not require killing hours from printer use just to heat the buildplate and dry out the filament.
Not a review, but a referral to the need to dry out the filament and at least make your own. It really does make a difference.
While I hang my head in maker shame for not making my own, now I do not have to kill a bit of time and filament and can go on with my own designs and ideas.
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AA core nozzle replace
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
The UM3 is a print core and by design, not really able to change nozzles only. But, gr5 may be able to help.