kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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The stand is up as well as new pics that show the Bussard Scoops unlit to see differences. New scoop designs, Pics and Stand are up at Thingiverse and YouMagine.
Here are a couple of previews that are on the sites listed:
I think these are all the final parts. It should be, but, well, I can be doofy on these things. PM me if you find any discrepancies.
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Acetone and colorfabb PLA is way better in my opinion and less destructive (but you do need the 0.06 layer height). I just can't stand that awful wobbly glossy look, surely it defeats the point of doing it. if you want a shine, you can always spray a gloss on. But who wants an imperfect gloss, after all you want perfect reflections, not the reflections of a bruised apple.
I would say it is dependent upon the subject matter. Sometimes the striations, coupled with the proper filament can give a nifty, 'sparkly' look.
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Ummmmm, not sure what you mean by supported. I believe you can still get the electronics and it appears at a glance that the electronics are still very much like the current models.
But, I must admit that you may be in for a bit of a search if you are looking for a complete kit. Although they are downsizing quite a bit, have you tried something like Radioshack? Buy a drone and then backwards engineer it?
For me, the fun would be to gut it and then really play with designs as the printing would be the replaceable parts. You could even make your own Drone Millennium Falcon HA !!
But, that shows my geekiness. -
New scoop designs are up at Thingiverse and YouMagine.
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I had to go update my Supersized Enterprise with the new Nacelle designs and such and the place was clean. Thanks!!
:) Triple smiley for ye bucko!!
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I have difficulties with PVA when the environment changes. Make sure your area is fairly dehumidified.
The first link was from 2013 and the materials have changed quite a bit since then. This link mentioned as the second one is the type of things I had to learn by reading a lot of posts. It is pretty much my experience with temps and such. But, when I started, it was Cura 2.3 and that had pretty much been incorporated.
For the record, I have no issues with PLA and PVA working together in any brand tried so far.
The only issues, as I stated are with humidity. It can really FUBAR the filament in the nozzle.
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I have never seen anything like that on my prints even on my first prints knowing nothing. And while I have not used Cura below 2.3, I do not find it difficult as most of it is preset.
It is interesting that is only showed when you upgraded software. Perhaps if you upped the files for the team to look at. Project file/logs, etc....
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Do you think I'd take the time to post a new thread before googling? By the way, the drone you have found is the MHQ2, which I said I already knew (please read my post accordingly before answering).
Thanks!
I dunno, it did not look like you were asking for anything else. Let us see.....
....I've looked at the Hovership MHQ2 but it looks discontinued since 2014 or 2015 and somewhat outdated. However, I'd like something similar to the mhq2.....So, hmmm, If I read this right, you looked at a discontinued model, said it should be like that model and I found that model and that only the electronics would be a cost. Seems to have met the criteria. And, you did not state how much of a search if any that you may or may not have made.
Now, if I wanted to be snarky the reply would have been
"Learn to design and use a friggin' 3D Package and not depend on others..."
Or.....
"How about taking the model and just scaling it in Cura?"
Or any number of other things.
1. I do not know you or what your habits are. But your message was, to me, not specific enough to warrant your reply.
2. I did not make assumptions about you, but may have interpreted your message wrong. But you assumed I did not read the message. That is on you. I may have screwed up the interpretation of the message, but I did take it literally and did not make assumptions. That is always on me.
3. If you had bothered to read my bio, you would have found I have Asperger's and that entails communication issues. And in all my posts, I have been nothing but helpful and have made a few communication gaffes.
4. If I was to make the assumptions you did, then I would see 6 posts, be snarky and make fun of you for being a noob, like they used to do in other forums when people asked questions. That reply was along the lines of "RTFM and then come back."
5. And just because you knew about a model did not mean you were not looking for it. If you want 'something like' that model, you are the only judge of that as there are too many to choose from for others to make that easy for you.
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I agree...environmental conditions can radically change things and usually within a matter of minutes....like 20 or so minutes if severe enough. All your material has to be is hydroscopic or temperature sensitive.
This happened to me within that time period.
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The red normally indicates overhang. In this case Cura thinks there is overhang in a vertical wall, which there isn't. It means that least the mesh has the wrong normals. CuraEngine does not look at the surface normals though, so this is not the issue directly. There is probably more wrong with your model than the normals.
If you check the X-Ray view, you will probably see red areas there (in the X-Ray view, red means there's an error in the mesh).
Dead on. And, depending on the cad package used, this may be a recurring issue that will mean constant monitoring.
All problems start and end with 3D Packages and possibly export failures (Non-unifying normals, etc)
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Supposedly a version of Blender that has a different, more familiar feel for modeling. I am just now downloading and will look at it later.
Blender is powerful now, but wow, it is a mind bender to get wrapped around the interface.
We shall see. May be good for more freeform modeling and not engineering like others.
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Cool
Ya know...that is worth putting onto the 3D Prints page. So clean and looks good. -
I'm not sure we are miscommunicating now. I was trying to compliment you, maybe the word optimistic isn't the right description. Anyway, I appreciate you sharing your experiences, and looking at the bright side of things!
Well, that is my mistake then!! Hahahahaha!! And, yeah, I do hope my mistakes help others.
You need to setup a VPN to your home network. If you have a router that supports it it's very simple, I use a fritzbox and it only took me a few minutes. Have a look at the manual of your router.If your router does not support it, here's a manual to set up a VPN using a raspberry Pi;
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39542-um3-remote-monitoring-raspberry-pi-vpn-tutorial
Thanks!!
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I think I should look into that. But, the goal is to find the optimum situation that does not need much monitoring, for the most part. But being able to monitor and abort would be nice. I have learned that tech fails at the worst times.
I will have to look at that. But, I do not know where you get optimistic from. I prefer all my systems, except this one to be air-gapped. There are just too many bad actors who do nothing but want to create chaos and have no concern for what they do to us little guys.
But, I do love sharing the experience as I am hoping it will help others. And, I thought the higher experiencers would get a good laugh at it. I certainly do now. Did not Monday night though!! LOL:P
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The first step is to use the front turn wheel which moves the buildplate via the Z-Axis screw. The buildplate screws are just for fine tuning. And, for me, I have found they need to be a bit loose as in, not fully up or down, but in between to allow for small deviances and bounce in the plate during printing.
But it always starts that far apart when doing a manual leveling.
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ya know...Google can be your friend...
http://www.hovership.com/2014/10/27/mhq2-3d-printed-mini-quad-frame-now-available/
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In the unlit versions, they are varying degrees of thickness. When light passes through them, you get a set of subtle red shades with the pattern in the scoop. The lit version is the same set of designs, but with the lights enhancing the effect of 'spinning'.
the lighting is a round LED chaser light setup I found on Ebay for cheaper than I could make them. I just have to deconstruct them a bit for the next phase of my Noob experiments:
1. Redesigning the Enterprise for proper lighting and stand with switches. Not hard, just a bit busy right now and I still need to get the varying files up for this and the 14 Inch version.
2. Designing light stands to access the on/off and programming functions which will require the deconstruction/extension of soldered parts and switch designs to access the power and LED preset programs of different patters.
I am making a set of lit lamp stands for my grandchildren.
1. Pikachu for my youngest granddaughter
2. Harley Quinn for my Middle granddaughter
3. Spider light for my oldest, the Grandson
I like the flashies, sparklies and twinklies......
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Thank you, but......I cannot take credit. Got 'em on Ebay. Gonna use a few of them for various projects. One will be a Pikachu lamp for my granddaughter. You can change programmed patterns (16 preprogrammed) and just gotta figure how to make the button accessible. But first to finally get all of this up now that I have all my proof of concepts done.
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Also, do not forget to turn on "Hollow out objects" in experience as it helps with any internal overhangs and will actually override (at least in my experience) any infill settings.
Be aware though that I am on a PC Cura as well as UM3+
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OK, I see a lot of posts about this problem or that problem and sometimes, I ask about environmental conditions. Well, here is why!! LOL
Now, the printer has been behaving like a champ and also through a lot of very uncontrolled conditions. But this last weekend, it got really hot and humid. And, while the basement apartment usually keeps cool, the nights never cooled and the humidity was too high as well.
So, I started up the A/C to dehumidify and control the temp a bit better.
Monday I had to leave for a job in Manhattan and do some 3D Software training. I started a 6 day print with tons of Support PVA to be used. The heat wave broke, and the humidity was supposed to be dropping. Going outside, it did feel better than normal. I started the print, took a shower and left for work. I checked the printer and it was humming along ok so I decided to turn off the A/C since I would not be home and the temp was not supposed to be too bad.
I got back from Manhattan about 9 or so hours later and well, I had Red PLA all up inside my electronics and nozzles and such. And, here is why the posting.....the print started to fail within about 20 or so minutes after I left. It had not progressed much at all after I left before failing. Just blobs of red PLA everywhere up inside the printhead.
The PVA was all 'noodled up' in the feeder. It had gotten so humid, so quickly that it just got so soft that it could not feed at all and literally looked like a spooled up noodle in the feeder, all squished and curled and wound a bit. Also, probably moisture in the bowden tube to help create friction. So, the PVA was really well cooked in the nozzle after just heating, cooling and reheating all day long without movement. I mean it took 3 hours to get it cleaned and pushing plastic again. Even had to break out the Airbrush needle to start the breaking up process it was so clogged!
I ruined my AA Core :angry:because as I cleaned out the cores and electronics, it cooled too much and although it had give, it pulled out a couple of wires. I do not have a heat gun, so tried to work quickly to no avail. I may be able to fix it, but am busy right now, so, just ordered replacements for the AA core. I had two AA and Two BB. So, I got 2 new AA and one new BB so that I can have backups and also do two color printing should I desire. Now, I will have three of each nozzle.
Now, the BB core was cleaned out and the spare AA core I did have is working great. But, with about 5 hours of A/C running, it had dried the air out a bit and things started to feed again. I left the A/C on during the days I have been out training and doing other work. The print has not failed.
The only thing that changed was the A/C to cool and dehumidify.
Will it always be a solution to all problems? nahhhhh
But, when dealing with PVA, it is a major concern and I wanted to give the experienced people a good laugh (And I laughs wit youse guys on dis!!) and the other noobs a chance to see just how much environment can affect the printing process. The print is doing fine with the A/C and now only has 2 days and 19 hours to go. It seems to be all purtyfied now.
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I can say that in certain situations that it would be easier to do in Cura or firmware so that you could accommodate filaments that 'want' to be printed round and not flattened such as T-Glase as that helps with transparency.
For the time being I do a manual for that and skip the active leveling so I can create that offset, but it is not as accurate as inputting direct numbers.
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Did not want to work in Firefox, but worked in Chrome.
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I was going to tell you to PM me when they start putting up nekid wimmen folk!!
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But, that shows my geekiness.
:) 
DIY Polishing Station
in Improve your 3D prints
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Absolutely
That's what makes this tuff so cool...so many different takes and approaches.