kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Are you asking how to create the video? Hardware, software?how do I do video?
For people to download and review, drop-box, ftp server, etc......files too big to send anyway. -
I agree with gr5 on the strings. Different materials do create interesting situations, but clean up of that is minimal. And, since, for the most part, I go about finishing up the print by way of sanding, priming and painting for the most part, Those are really small issues for me.
And, having built a gazillion commercial models, it is less trouble than trimming the flashing or even warping that heat or improper storage (or worse, just a bad series in the commercial lineup/production run) can do to a commercial model over time or even fresh purchases.
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Just for the heck of it, I checked my printing time:
2632 hours hot.......since mid-January..... LOL
I think you should rename it "Umex" because 'it takes a hittin' and keeps on a printin'!!'
Seriously, still getting good prints out of this monster :)Very rarely switch out the BB core and have not switched out the AA core yet in extruder 1.
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Oakely dokely
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I know larger cores are recommended to extrude materials like T-Glase for optimum transparency.
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The latter
Just out of curiosity, What materials with these new cores be made of? Standard Brass, Steel, Super-composite lining or some other strange animal I am unfamiliar with?
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If I am correct, and depending on Team Ultimaker or someone better prepared to correct this, but I understand that you are better off having a core in both slots at all times.
If I am not using the PVA, and not using the additional AA core, I just back the PVA out of The BB core, clean the outside, clean its innards with pulls and let it be until I need to change or use it again. Then I just advance the PVA back into the nozzle, do a preheat on the core and then a move on the material to make sure it is primed and flowing.
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When I replied earlier, I had awoken to the sounds of my printer making bad sounds because the CPE+ filament binded itself on the spool and had been air printing for a while. 3AM with only two hours of sleep.....
So, as a follow-up, I would ask a couple of noob questions that you can answer when you figure things out.
1. If you have not leveled or cleaned the plate in a while, nor used the machine in a while, would that not be step one? I mean clean it with degreasing dish soap, then very thorough washing followed by a solid alcohol wipe and mabe fresh glue. That stuff can get 'stale' and lose its 'ooomph' in a short time; at least here depending on humidity levels.
2. Printing PLA at the temp you describe, would that not create blobby bottoms? I think they are called elephant feet, or some such. I usually print PLA around 200°C or less, or just a bit more depending on brand and type.
3. Now, I did find on one piece that I had trouble with, I had to really kick the heat up on the buildplate to make the part stick and not warp with PLA. I mean I had to kick it up to 80°C and I usually do not have to do that at all. Especially with a shape as yours (Top cross section being rather boxy or radial in x and y) as my piece that gave me issues was a long, thin piece.
Just throwing spaghetti at the wall to see what may stick :)Look forward to the answers you find.
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If it is stiffness (not necessarily the same thing as strength) you have a demand for, you should look at a CF filled like the Colorfabb XT-CF20, it is insanely stiff (6.2GPa in Flexural Modulus) compared to Polycarbonate that "just" is about 2GPa.
http://colorfabb.com/files/TDS-carbon-en.pdf
Out of curiosity, and noobness, the CF means Carbon Fibre and is that not abrasive for the brass nozzles that come on the UM Models? Basically, killing the nozzles very quickly.
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Thanks for the info, will check it out!
My pleasure
And, keep asking questions as they arise. There are plenty of good people here that will actually answer you with respect and decidedly good information. I actually count on them to correct me, and they have, so that I have a better understanding. -
That is odd with the PLA materials. I have not used Colorfabb yet. Got a roll waiting for me to get to. But, PLA is so....well....bulletproof.
I do hope you follow up and present a solution if you find one. Adding to the data banks as we type
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What machine and version of Cura?
Also, be aware that different colors and such can really cause a difference in your printing experience. That is why you can make and save material and printing profiles for each instance (My experience on Cura 2.4 and 2.5 in conjunction with a UM3X). Can be a bit of a pain going through a long list, but it is better than having to try and remember every little thing when you run into odd things like you describe.
But, if it is skipping, it would seem (I am guessing) to be underextruding. Try to raise the flow and see if that helps.
Also, do you hear what could be a 'popping sound' from the feeder area or binding on the filament?
A popping sound would indicate a tension adjustment is needed as it can grind and cause poor feeding.
A binding is when the filament sorta gets wound on itself and creates a friction 'knot', for lack of a better term.
There are far more experienced than myself, but just throwing stuff out there that has worked for me.
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The absolute toughest, with the highest tg temp and strength I have found is polycarbonate.
There may be tougher out there though. But if you want to check out the printing needs for PC filament, check HERE and the product page HERE to see the pertinent data sheets.
I have not been printing for long, but this stuff is impressive and following the directions I linked to will make things better. The only thing I could add, if you do not have a door, is to tape some bubble wrap across the front and do it early in a preheat phase so the ambient temp in the build area can come to an equilibrium before printing.
Keep in mind that strength will depend on how many walls and percentage and type of infill. Will also depend on how thin the part is.
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Type of material? What are you using for strickum to da buildplate?
I ask because I have been reticent to use rafts but have found they can be removed if taken off while still warm to hot.
But, I am speaking specifically about PC and CPE+ as I have not had this be an issue with PLA or other things so have not tried it with other materials. But, does work like a charm with the filaments I mentioned.
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Another caveat about using FDM printers other than what has been mentioned is that although you may find food safe materials, there is no guarantee that there will be no contaminants in the system or build area. For making mold from? Yes, but not direct.
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...Also clean any oil from your fingers off the glass at least once per month.
I completely agree.
I clean my plate every time I switch it out with dish soap to cut grease as well as a nice wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol. 99% pure if you can get it to cut down on contaminants. After that, I have taken to using a slurry of PVA to add to stickiness and put a slight barrier between the plate and plastic to keep the plastic from chipping the plate on strong bonding plastics.
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As an aside, I am starting to prefer the ooze shield to the priming tower. Does eat up a lot of PVA though. But, I am recycling it (PVA), so it serves other purposes for me too.
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That's pretty elegant and simple. And, at least Design Spark, the no-cost version of Space Claim is a solid sibling to Space Claim.I don't really see the problem with the head traveling over the infill? This will be closed and become invisible anyway, so why would it matter? Or am I missing something?
You are... OP is taking advantage of the infill patterns generated by Cura, to make an interesting outer shell on his print...
Ah, okay, now I see. Thanks.
If the design software allows to create "patterns" (=terminology in SpaceClaim / DesignSpark Mechanical; I don't know the name in other packages), then another solution might be to create one hole, and repeat that a number of times in X- and Y-direction, with 0.5mm walls inbetween (for a 0.4mm nozzle). I used that to create a sieve, which has a similar pattern. This requires very little work. Then you might still have some blobs, but at least it is already a bit more beautiful since the nozzle is now traveling along the lines only.
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Well, as you can see in the pic I posted, you can at least choose the bottom layer only for that (Bottom Pattern Initial Layer). Just not the top.
Would be a nice thing to do though as I do prefer the way the concentric patterns look opposed to the other choices as well.
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Throwing in my 2 cents...as has already been stated, 1.75mm conversion kits exist currently and some people are using them, but if the future does go that way, you know that the many more people would be doing the conversion and there would be a lot of support available for it in the UM community.
You can already see the type of support available here for other innovations such as the Mark 2 dual extrusion and the ZGE systems. A 1.75mm conversion would be less complicated than these, I would think.
In short, my guess is you would need to weigh printer design/print quality against future-proofing to make your purchase decision.
I weighed my printer choices based on overall need and buildplate size and availability of materials. I do not need every color in the rainbow as construction was my main concern, as well as expandability and culture of the community around the printer.
Ultimaker fit my needs based on the above as well as reputation. And, I have not been let down. My biggest downfall is typical noob mistakes and pushing boundaries. But the community has guided me quite well as I progress as a 3D printer. Not just the how, but, for me the most important thing: The why. Knowing the why lets me draw independent conclusions and make better decisions.
Again, no one size fits all right out of the box.
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Nobody misses the point. You are looking for the perfect solution. Everybody seems to be pointing out that there is no perfect solution. So, I think I bow out of this as it seems to be becoming more of an argument you need rather than constructive information for you to make a better, informed decision as all you come up with are reasons to not use a machine based on 3mm filament.
So, go use a machine that does not. It is that simple.
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I find the Ultimaker Nylon to print very easily. I use a slurry of PVA and water using recycled PVA from supports and brims, etc. and not a bit of trouble with plate adhesion or anything like that.
So far no trouble with it.
But, another brand has given me more difficulties as it seems to absorb moisture from the air more readily as well as, well....just does not behave as well.
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Noob question: Why are they called 'endless'?
Thanks!
UM3 Issues
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Guest
That is an interesting question that I cannot answer at this time as I do not use that function.