kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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.....Ran the same test cube and all is fine.
How bizarre.
Not really. Anything can corrupt a computer file in a way that is unusable in some glitchy way, but can still be opened and appear fine. I have seen this a gazillion times throughout my career.
Since you basically started from scratch (cleaned out old files etc), I would assume that it was a tiny corruption in the file and not in the program itself.
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This is a ship I designed quite a while back. I was in the mode of finishing it up and decided to print it out and do a paint test.
Final is being printed now at 0.1MM/100Micron at 10". Printed standing on its engine/vertically. Still has 4 days and 9 hours at this posting to go.
The ship is designed at scale of 360' Port to Starboard. Each 'floor' of the ship is 10' Tall including support spaces below deck and overhead space for a walking interior space of 8' tall. I even have the 'science' worked out with the two sets of engine types and interstellar drives. Hey, it is Sci-Fi and it is my Sci-Fi, so, if I decide it flies on fairy dust, well, so be it!!
Printed at 7.5" vertically to increase print resolution. It just printed cleaner that way. 0.2mm/200Micron layers with a transparent PLA.
Note the patterns are not surface imperfections, but instead are support structures seen through the x-parent material.
Raw Top print:
Raw Bottom Print:
Top Primed with a black layer first and then a white layer before sanding. Lite sanding as it was proof of concept and not final. Testing colors and paint tolerances.
Closeup of the primed and lightly sanded print shows the layer rez.
Painting done with standard model paints. Not the best paint job, but not a finished product either. Just testing color schemes and paints.
Character Piece for the Main Character...and no, not the Captain. Captains give orders...everybody else does the cool stuff.
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OK, it has been a while with all the printing and experimentation. I am assembling the parts and such for upload, so this would be more of an update. I am hoping to have everything together by this weekend and up for this and the 14" model. And, I am beginning the priming and prepping for final assembly. Currently the model is in 5 Parts.
1) Saucer
b. Engineering and Nacelles
iii/ Deflector dish
Quatro- Bussard Collectors are printed in different color for each Nacelle
These parts are all put together within their structures, but separate to facilitate the priming and prepping and pics represent a loose fitting of the three structures for size. Will be epoxied together for final painting and finishing.
Total length is just at a meter or 39.5" long. Each floor tile in the overhead shot is 13" on each side. The saucer alone is 17.5" in diameter. 22 Parts in all, 12 just in the saucer alone, not including the pegs to join the parts. Will have print shots on buildplate when I roll this thing out. As well as assembly instructions. All parts watertight and no red error areas in x-ray.
Took three containers of epoxy just to get to this point. Well, just over three....tried Gorilla Glue epoxy and it was not as good as the previous brand (Devon 2 Part syringe with 3500 PSI Bonding rating). Bought more Devon to finish the final fitting/gluing.
All parts printed without supports. The PC material did the best, but had to switch to CPE+ when I ran out of transparent PC. PC did not warp as badly. Did use rafts for both. But, wow, did the PC material handle overhangs like you would not believe. That or I got lucky....I never discount that. But, it even handled all the areas that SandervG mentioned. The patterns are from the transparent material showing the internal support structures and how each piece was differently aligned to fit buildplate.
There is the illusion that it has bad angles (Like creases in the saucer). It does not. It does have nice compound curves that will be clean once primed and painted. I will have to work out some warping I experienced with the CPE+, but hey, what model does not. Most pieces were printed one at a time to keep the print head from moving from part to part as some were tall and tended to wobble with just printing one part, let alone bumping into a tall thin piece and killing its adhesion. Did have to reprint a few because of that and the follow up will have methods I used to overcome this. May be not the best method, but, hey, it worked.
Top View:
Front View (note that there is a 900 count bottle of Ibuprofen to prop the saucer. Since it is not glued on, it will tilt, but when glued, the model is quite balanced):
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And for that I am grateful.I have to correct @kmanstudios here, a hot pull with PLA is (meant to be) done at 230 degrees.You kept me from leading another person down the wrong rabbit hole. And, I should have just linked to the support page.
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If you bought it in the US, all are built and parts here:
Very helpful, good people.
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keep digging. If you went that high on your temps, you probably cooked the devil out of it and it is really burned on. Time and patience. Get into the zen of the cleaning and not hurry.
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I just thought this was cool and wanted to share it. Found it while looking into the 'Anti-Overhang' method.
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Hi
During hot pull, yes the pla material does melt at the tip. I must stress that only around 1mm of the tip melts. In addition when i pull it out, it aplears blunt. I.e. not sharp. There is not burn marks on it.
During hot pull i set the temp to 150 to 175 degrees.
I do not have any polycarbonate to use unfortunatly.
I am happy to send you pics of the hot pull results. My email is karambadaoui@yahoo.com.au.
That is not a high enough temp for PVA/PLA hot pull. Try setting your temps to about 210° - 220° C and then wait until it cools to about 150°C for a hot pull. Atomic or cold pull would wait for the temp until about 89°C.
Make sure you hold the Cleaning piece in place until it is about 120°C to keep it in proper contact with the material in the nozzle as it cools. It will need this bond to pull out cooked in material.
Also make sure that you place the print head in one of the corners to prevent the rods from being bent while pulling the material out. It will take pliers and a bit of strength to get it out during an Atomic pull.
Or, did you mean to say 250° - 275°C and it was just a typo? (asks the king of typos)....
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And for those that do not have access to cheap silica gel, Rice (cooking rice) is also an excellent desiccant. That is why they tell you to put wet electronics in it; to dry it out properly without harm.
Not as good as it will create its own 'rice dust' through friction, it is a quick alternative while you find, or wait for it to ship.
Best of all, you can cook it when you are done.
Just wash the heck out of it first.
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Can you please add the option to allow the user to select and remove certain support structures? Often times when printing with supports, there are areas I want/need supports and other areas where I would like to not have supports. Having the ability to remove them on the fly would be very helpful. Thanks!
I have never heard of this beast. Where can I get some references that are specific to your point? Off to google now, but posting just in case.
You can do this with anti overhang meshes.
Well, that was weird, I had a question about the anti-overhangs and it just posted the quotes.....may have been me, but here I go again:
I have not heard of anti-overhangs before. I am off to Google to find this, but could you elaborate or point to a reference more specific towards your comment?
Thanks!
Edit: I did find the reference through a search, but for some reason it confuses the heck out of me. A visual guide would be appreciated if such exists or could be made.
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Google is your friend...mostly...until they take over the world.....
https://www.google.com/search?q=drying+pva+filament&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
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Yeah, that print is something I have not seen before. Usually when I have encountered something like that, it was purely graphical.
But, showing the print is good to see. Thanks for that
And, yep, that is the way the print should look in sliced view when it is on the plate nicely.
But, wonder why your version of cura and mine would differ? I am on the same version.
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Cool beenie weeniesI have not downloaded the Beta version, but I was wondering if the new version will fix a minor annoyance when saving project files.
Instead of just keeping the File Extension, it keeps adding .curaproject.3mf to itself. As in:
My_project.curaproject.3mf would be listed in the name window but it saves as:
My_project.curaproject.3mf.curaproject.3mf
And will keep adding the extension unless you wipe it out or replace a file by double clicking on it.
Not yet, but I'm working on it. Think we can ship this with 2.6 final.
I know it is minor compared to some of the things you guys are working on. I truly appreciate it.
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I have not downloaded the Beta version, but I was wondering if the new version will fix a minor annoyance when saving project files.
Instead of just keeping the File Extension, it keeps adding .curaproject.3mf to itself. As in:
My_project.curaproject.3mf would be listed in the name window but it saves as:
My_project.curaproject.3mf.curaproject.3mf
And will keep adding the extension unless you wipe it out or replace a file by double clicking on it.
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I took a look. Here is an image of three different slices using the Lines, Concentric and Zig-Zag. I could not reproduce the image you provided. But, it is laying flat. You can check that by taking your layers to the bottom and see if it is indeed sliced on the bottom. It was in my view. I did try different rez sizes (Draft, Normal, Fast) and it did not change and moved it around the plate. I do not think it is an issue. It just looks like the way the graphics are being drawn or something. What version of Cura are you using?
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I wonder what PLA you are using as I have never experienced your problem; I am just wondering if you are using a cheap PLA which is leaving some residue on the finish.
This may be a bit off topic, but when I build commercial models, I always wash the heck out of my parts. Mold release and all that stuff.
I have carried that over to washing all my printed parts as well. Basic de-greasing/dish soap and just warm enough to not warp the plastic involved. Basically, not cold as that does not help the soap come off, and then a lot of rinsing until the fingers squeak on the material.
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I was speaking for myself. I have had my work used by others, seen it in other people's portfolios, etc as well as seen other persons' models for free in one place and for sale in another. So, I am a bit more cautious than most.How else can Cura improve if we cannot share those files it struggles with ")
But, maybe someone else will help. But, have you inspected the model in a 3D program? There are free ones that can help you such as mesh mixer.
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Here is the link to the files:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/flexible-sunglasses-test
Let me know if you need a different file type.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Wanted to take a look. I get a message telling me I am not authorized to access the page, even though I am logged in.
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If they were purchased, then I would not think it is a good idea to spread them around.
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... Its strange that in the beginning I did not have them and now I got them.
Sometimes environmental conditions can affect that sort of thing.
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It would seem that the red areas are creating an issue.
As for sharing files, if you downloaded them, then you can post the link from where you downloaded from. That would be easiest as it would let people see what issues you may have from the master files.
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I dont care bout the shiny layer, I dont know why anyone cares to be honest? Im doing a test print today so will let you know how it goes!
I look forward to seeing what you find as a solution. I am doing my first print with ColorFabb while the Supersized Enterprise is setting its final epoxy gluing.
I am using the translucent orange, Seems to be printing ok. Will know when I get the print off.
But, most definitely looking to see what you come up with
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That service butchered the model, so thats a no go.
Can you elaborate on that? I would like to know what you mean.
also, what version of Cura are you using?
Cura has sliced properly for me at all times. And, be aware that many of the files you download are not really that well made with all sorts of errors in them.
Try looking at the x-ray view to see if it has any red in it. I have found a lot of models I downloaded are full of red areas. This goes for OBJ and STL files.
Also, position may play a part as, if I am correct, it works off a 3D Grid and you may be falling in between grid areas is the walls are not angled or in the right place.
A link to the file so someone may take a look could be good too. Just because someone hit the export to STL button does not mean it is a proper STL file.
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I too sent a PM and not no response. Does anybody have this that would not be upsetting to HReedijk?Hi Guys,
I sent a PM to @HReedijk but didn't get any response.
Does anybody else have the plans?
I wouldn't mind drawing them myself but since it has already been done, it would spare me some time.
Gr, JI
I do not think it is right to post a link for everybody unless he/she approves, but there was the offer though through PM.
Order sequence of parts in Cura & UM3
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I have not had that happen with my PC prints. Are you printing more than one object with PC at one time?