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RudydG last won the day on May 20 2017

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  1. I use pva all the time, no issues with it. But the main precaution, is keeping the material dry!!! Drybox, only take the amount needed out off the bag, and reseal the rest. My make is Polymax polydisolve S1.
  2. I use Polymaker dissolve S1 material, works very good with all my materials, Pla, Tough Pla, Copa, Carbon fibre... It is extremely important to keep it dry! I use 2 Polyboxes, but often i only cut the needed length plus some extra, and reseal the bag with the rest. Works fine. Always a little waste, but never had any fail since i used this method. (in fact, i do this with most of my moisture sensitive material) So bottom line, if you experience problems, first make sure all is dry! (my PVA does not stand more that 24 hour without being to humid to print)
  3. If the fan works standalaone, you could check the voltage on the connector when the cores are hot, check for 5V dc. Maybe it is the wiring, maybe even the motherboard. In my case, it was a blocked fan. I cleaned all the mess out, and everything worked fine again. (took me some time to find out why this machine gave me troubles)
  4. Difficult to answer this question. What is considered strong? So many possibilities. Even in Nylon you have many options. In the past i used CF from Colorfabb, but it was no "the" solution for everything. Ultimaker has already a nice collection of quality filament, where the settings are under control 😉 And if you go into the marketplace of Cura, you will find all the supported materials, if you chose in that range, life will be easier.: I am going to test with this one: PolyMide™ CoPA (according the specs has twice the bending en tensile strength than polymax pla (=tough pla) which i normaly use.
  5. Yes, it is one of the options. But you can also play 100% safe and use the UM filaments, then your are sure about all the parameters. Really consider this option, and then you will learn to appreciate the total package Ultimaker offers you.
  6. Polymaker is the filament i use 90% of the time, very good quality!
  7. Pull, i know between my hip and hand is 1mtr. for extensive lengths, + 10mtr, i use my Polymaker drybox.
  8. Easy, i just unroll the amount Cura tells me to use, plus an extra Mtr that goes into the bowden tube. And if you miss, the printer detects your out of filament so the print isn't ruined.
  9. Bob, I use my S5 now about a year, and learned to live with the critical moisture sensitive materials without the material changer. First, the S series have filament sensors, secondly Cura is a very good slicer (I was addicited to Simplify, but that simply does not work with S series, you lose all the benefits), which gives you the exact length of filament needed. So what i do mostly, open the bag with moisture critic filament (PVA / Nylon ...), cut the needed length + 1mtr (for the tubing), and feed that into the printer. Easy peasy, no need for this expensive adon. (although it has its advantages)
  10. My 3 is better than my S5 in terms of print quality and dimensional accuracy. Not to say the S5 is bad, just the 3 is a tad finer. But i also suppose the 2+ is even better.... I use my S5 for functional prototypes. Mostly Tough pla, and often i do a horizontal layer compensation of -0.1 in Cura.
  11. I have a 3 and a S5. Both very good printers. At this moment i have budget to buy another printer, and wanted to try out resin printing. Could be another 3, or S3. As for the S5, i don't need the material handling box, i have used to live with the limitations, i have 3 dryboxes, and the end of roll sensor of the S5 works very good.
  12. Same feeling here. Next friday i go and see a demo of the formlabs 3, also the Zortrax Inkspire draws my attention.
  13. So you see, 24 september is not specified enough!! Waiting waiting waiting....
  14. But i can't find a settings where my layer height is different for extruder 1 and 2, not in printer or material settings. Am i missing something?
  15. I don't even remember, it was a small design, probably for some Prusa type printer.
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