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chuckmcgee

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Posts posted by chuckmcgee

  1. 8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    I got your file. I did make a couple of changes, but I do not see how it would affect your print.

     

    Changes:

    1.Set profile to UM Yellow PLA (simply because I use the UM PLA profiles for my PLA printing, even when using Matterhackers Pro PLA)

    Will do!

     

     

    8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    2. Set brim to same extruder (2)

    This was already on extruder 2.  Because I re-created the job in Cura to send you the project file, I forgot to change that.  It was changed on the 2 models that printed

     

    8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    3. Set slicing tolerance to exclusive

    Will do

     

    8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    4. Maximum Retracton Count to 12 (default 25 which is a bit much)

    Will do.  I think this was the default profile

     

    8 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

     

     

    These are just basic settings I use. Like I said, I would not be able to test against anything until next week due to commitments. And even then, I would print to just above your problem area to see if I get the same thing.

     

    If it is not solved by the time I can get around to printing it, I will load my MH PLA PRO (Just not yellow....do not have that) and see if there is any correlation to your experience.

     

    Slicing does look good. So not sure what the issue could be (difference in S5 machines, different stock of MH PLA PRO, etc)

     

  2. @kmanstudios Thank you for the reply.  

     

    Quick answers - it looks great in the slicer...went to Layer View in Cura and scrolled the arrow to look for any anomalies in the layer preview - looks as expected - perfect.  I will try to capture an gif of that if you think it will help.

     

    Re: the two filaments - both were red Pro PLA from Matterhackers.

     

    Re: first attempt was an infill of 20%.  Second attempt was 10%.  Model seemed to have that same indentation around the same height.

     

    A couple additional notes:

    • This is printing from Extruder 2.  I will attempt to print the same model from extruder 1 and see what it looks like.
    • I also have a CR-10 and will slice with Simplify3D and Cura on that printer and see what it looks like

    Is there a way to export the gcode of the current print that is still going on the S5?  The print with the indentation has about another 3 hours before it completes.  I would like save the gcode if possible.  I have already closed Cura and chose the "Print to Network" option, as opposed to save to disk.

     

    Thanks again.  This one is a mystery.

  3. Not sure if this is an Ultimaker issue, Fusion360 issue, or Cura.  I am printing a simple box.

     

    This is the model in Fusion360

    477708484_ScreenShot2018-07-27at7_57_03AM.thumb.png.5793e88b423ddf00836aa4b4531c5e59.png.6cc70f2f0cbae2439c53e8a002e7ef12.png

     

    This is the body in Cura:

    2069419536_ScreenShot2018-07-27at7_57_48AM.thumb.png.8adf2222f2e3951f1cf04cf9d643e84e.thumb.png.c4808f89fbb25ad097d4424f75157c7d.png

     

     

    But this is how it is printing (and this is twice now with two different roles of filament and different infill settings (20% on the first attempt and 10% on this one - each print did the exact same thing at the same point)

    IMG_0993.thumb.jpg.3989a5ca9075f6cc14ee854c6f651b85.jpg.c7d5e387bc1c59390950f8b0d8b3a8b0.jpg

     

    The perimeter at the bottom of the box is narrower then the rest of the wall as it prints, creating an uneven wall up the side.  I have looked at the layer preview in Cura as well as a cross-section analysis in Fusion360 and there appears to be absolutely no reason for that to be printing that way.  I also know there was nothing odd about how it was modeled...a sketch, extrusion, and shell.  Simple box.

     

    I have also attached the STL file of the box.

    control box.stl

     

    Would love some advice about how to fix this.  Thanks in advance!

  4. Hi all,

     

    Can't seem to find official documentation on what to do when your s5 stops the print due to filament run-out.  A 7-hour print stopped midway this evening to let me know I needed to replacement filament.  I discovered this well after the bed was lowered and the hot end cooled to about 30 degrees.  Instinctively, I removed the last of the previous filament from the bowden tube and manually fed the new filament to the [cold] nozzle and resumed print.

     

    The option to increase temp on the core was greyed out on the interface and I was nervous about feeding the replacement at the feeder for fear there would be some kind of play in the bowden tube between the new filament in the old, and create a jam somewhere before the new filament would have pushed the old filament completely through.

     

    Is this what I should have done?  Is there a better way?

     

    The print resumed correctly (although some of the support layers look like junk, but I manicured them back to salvageable and the print seems to have successfully resumed.

     

    Thanks for the advice.

  5. This may be related to the post I made in the Tough PLA materials forum, but I loaded up eSun Pro+ PLA in extruder 2 (AA 0.4 core with default PLA settings) and I am getting the same sloppy results as I am getting with the Tough PLA (where by the Tough PLA was using the detected settings and all default).  

     

    Here is a video.  Notice how uneven the top most layer is on the model and how it seems to be pooling in the front.

     

    https://youtu.be/PnEnHybQU7Y

     

    I would have thought I was running too hot on the filament or the flow was too great, but a roll of fresh Black Tough PLA with NFC-detected settings is doing the same thing.

     

    Here are my settings from the material manager in Cura

     

    458721770_ScreenShot2018-07-18at9_40_02PM.thumb.png.75eb95853303e7f6d5468de6fbbc8dd3.png

     

    Here are some more pics mid print - these should be smooth on the outside with no ridges or stucco type of surface texture.

     

    IMG_0962.thumb.jpg.7f89165c1891d69a6323bf5d723d0648.jpg

     

    IMG_0963.thumb.jpg.91461154b5518bfea9a2097a9451bfe9.jpg

     

    Here is the model in Cura

    2070715138_ScreenShot2018-07-18at10_20_40PM.thumb.png.7bb2b49aedf87238609c41379de4b8c6.png

     

  6. Thank you for the quick reply @gr5 and @SandervG

     

    My first print (maybe not the best) was an antenna cap I designed for my truck.  I have a tall antenna that I don't use, so I unscrewed it and use an antenna cap I designed.  I decided I would replace the resin one I did on a Form2 with the new S5 with tough PLA (hoping it would hold up to the sun better than traditional PLA).

     

    I used the standard 0.4AA nozzle.

     

    Here is the model in Fusion360 (10mm diameter of the widest part):

     

    767127769_ScreenShot2018-07-18at7_29_30PM.thumb.png.19f538d6a781efa26ed8e2b8e99e0015.png

    30436932_ScreenShot2018-07-18at7_29_14PM.thumb.png.2cfc7cc6b6ef95f3a1176ef4bc910819.png

     

     

    Here is the outcome with default settings:

     

    IMG_0958.thumb.jpg.d2474e9bf82fb0c25888eb26e7911b56.jpgIMG_0959.thumb.jpg.d12826c5cf7bb5d3fe910cc4a6626c33.jpgIMG_0960.thumb.jpg.e81e0f5bb020cc2a689583e4097d09d1.jpg

     

     

  7. Just got my S5 and printed with black tough PLA.  While the model was small, the filament was dispensing very thick and goopy...thinking either to reduce the flow rate or the temp.  It is currently using default settings as detected by the NFC.

     

    Do most of you find it customary to have to change those detected settings? 

  8. On 6/11/2018 at 1:19 PM, gr5 said:

    Short answer: I usually set "initial horizontal expansion" to around -0.25 to fix this.

    <snip>

    I never do autolevel and when it's printing the brim or skirt I just adjust on the fly.  

     

    I meant to ask regarding the two lines extracted from gr5's reply...do these two go hand-in-hand?  In other words, if I set the initial horizon expansion...is it required that I turn autoleveling off?  It seems likely that autobed leveling would ignore a setting like initial horizon expansion and make adjustments for the then current spacing when it does the leveling calculations.  


    I am about to run a print with initial horizon expansion set at -0.25 and autobed leveling left on - and wondering if I should expect the same result with the elephant's foot.

  9. This is very helpful, gr5.  Thank you.  I get the need for some squish and did know it as elephant's foot.  Good reminders.  I am comfortable with the adjustments on the fly and will give that a go.  I also find it interesting that you don't do the auto bed leveling.  That makes perfect sense!  I often wondered what good manual adjustments would do, assuming you are in the ball park, if auto leveling would correct your manual leveling adjustments.

     

    I will also give the initial horizon expansion a try.  Is that set in Cura or on the printer?  (I could of course Google the answer, but asking here).

     

    Thanks again

  10. Since I have owned two Ultimaker 3 Extended printers in the past several months, I have an almost predictable issue where my first layer is too squished to the bed, causing there to be a minor single layer flare out on the first layer which at times has affected the quality of the surface of many of my prints - especially ones with dual extrusion lettering.  I can send pictures if no one is familiar with this, but I have heard of others having the issue (and can't find those references now, of course).

     

    I have done countless manual and automatic bed levelings to no avail.  Wondering if there is another approach?  Maybe be a little looser on the manual bed leveling to the point where I can barely feel the calibration card?  Maybe there is a z-offset I could change?

     

    The issue isn't a show stopper, but my CR-10 outperforms the UM3E for the quality of the first layer and that feels wrong to me given the quality differences in the two printers.

     

    Thanks.

     

    Here are some examples from a print I did in December.  The model was a phone case and the sides were a 45-degree chamfer.  You can see, even had I modeled a lip to be more accommodating, I am losing integrity between the lines of the lettering.

     

     

    IMG_0081.jpg

    IMG_0089.jpg

  11. Anyone have any experience using this combination of hardware and software?  I tried over the weekend for my first time ever and, either I set something incorrectly, it or it doesn't work properly.  In my case, the print paused when I expected it to, but on resume - it was a mess.  The bed returned to the hot end and kept going - crashing into the print and boring a hole into my print...it kept trying to go up until eventually (assuming some kind of failsafe), it stopped and failed.

     

    Hoping I did something wrong as I would love for this feature to work.

     

    Thanks for whatever you all can tell me.

  12. Sorry if these are dumb questions:

    1. If i used the extension in that way, how would the bug manifest itself?  I tried this over the weekend (and should have done so with a test print), but I ran it on a piece I was hoping to be a success and, when I resumed, the bed continued back upwards right into the nozzle, creating a burn hole in the print before I had to manually stop it.  It also caused the filament in both spools to retract way back into the PTFE tube, causing me to essentially remove all of the filament and refeed it to start over.  I did the pause at layer and not at height.
       
    2. This is my first time using (or even finding these extensions).  How likely/quickly will an issue like this be resolved?  Does your discovery have a fix we have to wait for or something we can/should do ourselves?

    Thanks!

     

    UPDATE:  I think the Z in the bottom code is also a bug. That might explain why my print crashed into the head on resume.

     

    Either way...Good catch!!!

     

    Auswahl_015.png.dd1b5e9161deec1ccd46d84022fec425.png

     

    Here is my examples of height vs layer:

     

    by Height:

    398924382_ScreenShot2018-05-07at7_24_46AM.thumb.png.3860e4d124530370c01217d2be933ec5.png

    by Layer:

    1825989097_ScreenShot2018-05-07at7_24_25AM.thumb.png.e350193a026e5b84acd1269c0834e243.png

     

  13. 16 minutes ago, robinmdh said:

    FYI It happens on the next print after aborting a print, past the heating up stage, and depending on where /what gcode was being processed at the time...

     

    Thank you for the clarification.  I have seen it occur most often right after the printer is powered on after an extensive period of time of not being used and after heating the bed and hot end for the first print.  After that, it works for multiple print jobs.

     

    Questions:

    1. As a known issue, is it safe to assume this will be fixed by a firmware update?  I have experienced this issue across at least two of the latest firmware updates.  Wondering how long this has been known and whether the fact that this still exists is a sign of a bigger issue
       
    2. Why is this not an issue for more people (or maybe it is)?  I haven't found a lot of threads pointing back to this and thank goodness, @kmanstudios made me at least feel like I wasn't the only one (even though his hasn't occurred in a long time)
       
    3. Is there anything I can do to improve the likelihood that this won't happen?  Would it help to turn off the prime blob and assume the filament will regulate during a skirt or brim process?

    Thanks for the help here!

  14. 12 minutes ago, robinmdh said:

    Your printer turns off during prime and stops. That thread is about a long retract after abort, we are aware of that and will try to fix it but it's a different Issue.

     

     

     

    Yeah. I was just pointing out that there was another reply within the thread that had the same problem. I hope I’m not belaboring the point, but my issue is not that the printer turns off during that purge, it’s that it keeps dispensing filament at the point of the purge until I have no choice but to turn it off manually. For all intents and purposes, the printer appears to freeze as the controls are completely unresponsive.  

  15. 24 minutes ago, robinmdh said:

    Being a software engineer I'm more interested in finding out what is actually the problem as more people could be having this issue, that means one more experiment at least :)

     

    You mentioned others that might be having this issue - as you may have seen @kmanstudios commented earlier in this thread that he is having the issue.  Coincidentally, he and another are exchanging replies in another thread with @SandervG.  This is the thread:

     

    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22032-big-blob-and-huge-retraction-um3-after-abort/

  16. Thanks Robinmdh.  To clarify about there power brick, I only have the one that I am using now.  This is the original power brick from the first Ultimaker.  We decided to keep this one when the new one had the flickering.  I was only suggesting that maybe this particular power brick is responsible for the extended purge on both of the Ultimaker printers I have had.  

     

    And yes...that is the same Erin.  She’s great.  

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