TMicke
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Posts posted by TMicke
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I’m having the same quest, trying to find a filament that can stand weather and time. My best bet so far is colorFabb’s HT. It will be fine up to a 100 degrees or so. I guess the quality of the surface of the print isn’t as good as PLA but so far it’s good enough for me. I have sanded a few models and the model didn’t get soft or “sticky” while sanding to quick like PLA, I liked it a lot.
But be ware that you probably need to print it at an higher temp than the original FW let’s you use and that the PTFE coupler doesn’t like higher temps. Don’t know if you count this as extreme but I think it’s the price you have to pay.
The solution for me was tinkergnome FW and a PTFE coupler from 3D Solex that won’t mind beeing used at temperatures up to 295 degrees.
I’ve had a few models made from PLA outside in the sun for a couple of months this summer, and we have had more than 30 degrees for many of those days, I haven’t measured the temp in the sun but none of my models got soft.
It takes a little more than 50 degrees to start making PLA soft.
I guess the real killer is UV radiation. There are some sprays that states it blocks UV, haven’t tried though.
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Haha, that makes me wonder whats inside my head, maybe best not knowing..
Great work, as allways!
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Yesterday i flashed my printer with tinker, and now at the end of the prints, the fans turns on 100% but the temp stops and stays at approximately 76 degrees.
Just want to let you know if someone else where interested in the same feature.
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On 7/30/2018 at 9:01 PM, tinkergnome said:
In addition: you should disable the option "Blip fan to full power..." (on the cooling page). Ultimaker printers don't need this and the short pause above the printed object (with a hot nozzle) can affect the print quality.
Omg! Can’t test right now, but I think you solved an headache for me.
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This is the tip I got when asking about the PTFE Coupler;
http://3dsolex.com/product/tf2k/
I expect it to arrive today, meaning that I have not tried it yet.
I am not sure though about the fw change to allow the higher temperature, I’m guessing it is tinkergnomes fw that is preferred?
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Well, I've had it with this one. 3 Rolls down the drain ?
Tried all sorts of temperatures, fan speeds, multiplier settings, layer heights, infills. Just can't get it to work.
All my previous printings with PLA (going back for years) are a lot less brittle then the ones I get from this... Sigh...
colorFabbs HT works well for me so I guess I'll stick to that when I need something a bit more resilient. Was looking forward to the lower printing temps on the nGen though.
Enough with the wining already!!
-Just wanted to let you all know.
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Can’t wait! ?
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Kman, you are insane!
I enjoyd reading this in so many levels and you deserve all the credit you can get.
Keep up that great work!
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I'm playing with the idea of printing some kind of gargoyle with bronzefill and put on poles along the road to my house, but how would they hold up if left outside all year around?
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In Simplify3D you have an option in the tab “layer” for the height on first layer, if you are printing with a layer height of .13 I would suggest an first layer height of 150-200% and set speed of first layer to 50%
Also, there is a “line width” option for first layer (I’m not at my computer now so not sure if it’s called exactly that) I usually have that set to 120-130%
All this is to have a thicker first layer that prints slower.
If you are printing with PLA I think 220 is at the very high end of the scale.
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Been trying to print with colorFabbs nGen. I think the surface looks great but it is very brittle.
I'm printing with an UM2+ .4mm nozzle and am using S3D.
Print speed 45mm/s
Layer height .15mm
Have tried following range:
Temp 220-240° - No difference
Print width .4 - .48mm - No difference
Infill 30-100% - Worse with less infill
Thickness of the thin part is 1.5mm.
I'm trying to print this standing up cus I think the surface look nicer that way. I'm currently only printing the upper part in order to see of it will hold.
The picture shows how it easily breaks, not only between layers but across as well. It acts like an old piece of plastic that gotten hard in the sun. Haven't tried but i reckon that if you drop it on a concrete floor it would go to pieces. The "thinner" piece bends like I would expect.
The scull looks good as do surface of broken piece so I like to think that it's not caused by under extrusion, but now as I'm saying it I realize that I should probably try increasing the flow?
I'm running out of ideas.
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I figured it out my self
This is my ending script in Simplify3D:
G28 X0 ; home the X-axis
M84 ; disable motors
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S255 ; set fan to full speed
M109 S50 T0 ; wait until heater is 50°
M104 S0 ; turn off heaters
M107 ; turn off fan
Now after printing is done it sets the fans at full power until hotend reaches (cools down to) 50° then shuts of heater and fans.
I pretty sure my printer wont be ubducted by aliens if the fans are left on after printing is done, but I don't like things in general to be in motion or in use more than necessary ?
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On 7/19/2018 at 7:39 AM, cloakfiend said:
Dont worry about producing STL files. Make OBJs instead in my opinion, I've not made one STL file since I bought my UM2.
What is the benefit of an OBJ over an STL?
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This most likely is not the one, but maybe it can help all the same.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
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19 minutes ago, Dim3nsioneer said:
If you want to print regularly at high temps, I would recommend the I2K isolator from 3DSolex in addition to the TFM (or the TF2K combination from 3DSolex which is TFN+I2K).
? Thanks!
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Oh, thats a relief ?
I get what you said about no line, but say I print at 260°, what printing time is resonable to expect, 2 hours or a 1000 hours?
How do I know when the TFM coupler is ready for change, what signs are I'm looking for?
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I'm a bit confused, on Ultimakers site it is stated regarding UM2+:
Optimized for:PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU 95A
But as I can understand by reading here on this supreme UM forum the TFM Isolator Coupler cant handle more than 240°C.
Some of the above mentioned filament types seems to be needing well over 240°C.
Can someone tell me more about this.
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Maybe your over extruding, to hot nozzle or to fast printing. Those are the things I can think of.
The few models I have tried, the makerbot robot and the socket wrench from nasa, required that your printer is well adjusted.
If you can post a picture i’m sure someone can tell you right away what the problem is.
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Not sure where I should post this.
I'm looking to add an G-code to my ending script that turn off the fans after 3 minutes but can't figure it out.
And an other question; I usually look att this site for G-codes https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Witch one would you recommend?
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Thank you for a very good explanation!
This salt method really sounds like a good thing.
You are absolutely right about the seam lines using a tape, even though I dont use my prints professionally it bothers my eye quite a bit actually.
And then we have the bubbles ? Spot on again.
If you take the time to use soap water and a flat plastic thing to press the tape with afterwards to press out the soap water between glass plate and tape (cant find the words to explain this properly, but I’m sure you understand) it is possible to make it without any bubbles, and if you get some small ones they usually disappear once the bed is heated for a little while.
I have ordered a ‘gecko tek EZ-Stik’ that I’m looking forward to try.
But today, or rather tomorrow, I’m going to try the salty thing ?
*edit
Would you mind sharing how to make this salty water, I would appreciate it a lot hearing from a person whom I now have become to trust
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15 hours ago, Brulti said:
I never needed glue for PLA. I use UM PLA, it stick very well on it's own on the glass bed of my UM3E. Did you had trouble with PLA that were solved with using PET tape? Do you use UM PLA or another brand?
At the time I used Velleman PLA. When I started using the tape and it worked so well I never tried anything else.
I had an vertex 8400 and it came without a heated bed using ‘buildtak’ adhesive sheets, and man did it stick to that, often it stuck too much and I ended up cutting pieces of the buildtak trying to remove my print.
Later some kind guys posted guides how to add an heated bed and made a new FW for it. By that time i was absolutley positively sure that you HAD to have some adhesive layer of some kind.
Then I read about this guy telling about this PET-tape and at the time and in my ears it sounded just to good to be true, but I ordered a few rolls, 10 to be precise ? and never looked back. This was in late 2015 or early 2016.
All the PLA I have tried has worked like a charm; Velleman, Eu makers, eSun, Primafila, colorFabb and so on. PLA with copper and wood worked equally good as did Ninja flex.
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Interesting read!
I've been using some kind of PET tape the last couple of years, it's the best thing ever, at least for PLA. It sticks super well and comes right off when cooled down, with smaller parts you can break away immediately after printing is done. I used the same tape for well over a hundred prints and I honestly didn't have one warping once the bed was level and settings in slicer optimized, as long as the first layer looked like Example #1 in top post you where good.
*edit* Example #2 also assured the print to stick, but with an annoying "edge" at the bottom of the print ?
So I have a question; whats the downside to adhesives like the tape that I use? And today I read about all kinds of sheets, like gecko tek's EZ-Stik for example.
My former printer could not go over 210C so I was 'stuck' with PLA, so how it works with other materials I cant say.
My question obviously assumes that there is a downside, maybe I'm all wrong ?
*edit #2* There is a very good reason for me not being an writer.
-Why I ask is because I get a feeling that most people use glue, hairspray or similar. Maybe I'm lazy but I think it's to much work with cleaning the build plate after every print.
My intention so far is to buy one or two extra glass beds so I can have different adhesive sheets for different materials.
Cheers!
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So much for not buying and trying ?
Ordered 3 different rolls; X-PLA, PLA and PETG.
Guaranteed diameter variance ± 0.025 mm...First I've seen with that low tolerance.
Will get back with some pictures.
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Hi,
Has anyone tried add:north filaments?
Link: https://addnorth.com/en/shop
Since i'm a Swede I got a little extra curious cus I very much like the idea to support your local shops, (Country in this case).
I just bought an UM2+ and are a little short on cash plus I am getting tired of spending hundreds of dollars on filaments that don't meet resonable expectations.
So I thought I would ask all of you fine people in here for your opinion and experiences.
Cheers!
3D scanner app for IOS - Would like some advice
in What have you made
Posted
A few years ago I had an app on my android phone, think it was called 123D Catch, and I think Autodesk made it. I only ever made one scan with it, but it was an success in my eyes.
Nowadays I'm using an iPhone and thought there would be loads of apps for 3D scanning but all I get is confused when searching app store.
Could someone here please share their experiences with 3D scanning software for IOS, good or bad.