TMicke
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Posts
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3D Prints
Posts posted by TMicke
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1 hour ago, PTNewbie said:
Maybe if I could ungroup or unsnap all parts I could solve this problem
Again, I don't know the right terminology but put simply: you wont be able to edit the threads on an .stl file in any program, you would need the "master" file for this.
Did you make the model yourself in FormZ, or have you downloaded a .stl file and wishes to edit it?
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I don't have the language skills to explain this in detail, but you cant edit .stl files in fusion 360.
My suggestion is/was to make new parts in fusion 360. You then convert those files into .stl files.
*edit
From the looks of your picture this would be quite simple actually, and it would be a great project to get to learn fusion 360 if your up to it.
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This might be a really stupid answer (or rather not an answer at all), but if you could consider using another software I have a suggestion;
I’m using Fusion 360 that’s made by autodesk. It’s free to use for personal and educational use. It’s available for Mac and PC. There you easily can make threaded bolts and nuts and what ever you like. It has a ton of different threads built in that you easily can choose from.
Best of luck!
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That is so cool!
I haven’t looked at the video, I cant use audio at the moment. If it isn’t explained in there I would love to hear more about how you “attached” it to the car, how it held up and so forth.
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https://www.3dprima.com/primacreator-reprap-m6-brass-nozzle-0-6-x-1/a-22767/
Have been printing with theese for a short period of time and they seems ok.
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It feels like you nail every question I have and the next three as well.
It is time to do some experimenting on my own now, it's easy to get lazy and start asking about every little thing.
I have previously asked you about 3D-Coat in an other subject, and you made me wanting to give it a go and I downloaded the demo, then now on black Friday they (3D-Coat) had an offer with $100 taken of the standard price and I could not resist. Haven't told my wife yet though...
Just wanted to let you know and that I appreciate it a lot. *edit; your help and input that is.
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Ohh, great!
This will have me busy for a good while 😄
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Thank you so much!
In my screenshot I have converted to voxel choosing 10,000,000 as voxel value and the edge still isn't sharp? Tried 15,000,000 but then my computer started to argue with me and wouldn't let me do anything smoothly afterwards.
Could you load my STL file and see what value you would choose?
This particular model is to be used as a lid on an small glass I have with salt water.
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I am trying to import an STL made in Fusion 360 into 3D-Coat. I want to add some texture to the surface and basically just learn. But I cant figure out how to maintain sharpness/quality of my model.
I'm hoping for some guidance from @kmanstudios or anyone else who has actually worked in 3D-Coat.
I will let my screenshots do the rest of the talking since I'm not really familiar with what I'm doing and therefore don't really know how to describe my issue in a good way.
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57 minutes ago, JRDM said:
I've been meaning to convert one of my UM2s to Duet Maestro
Why Maestro instead of wifi or ethernet?
And thank you for the links to the railcore (is that right, is it called a railcore?) It looks very interesting. Do you have one, and can you tell me a little more about it then, and compared to a UM2.
It’s very satisfying and fun to build your own printer. My first one was a Velleman 8400 that came in pieces, bought it the day before christmas. Made me feel like a child again ?
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Waow! And just a heads up, my wife will not like you ? (for making me want to buy more stuff)
If I wouldn't want to mess with my almost brand new UM2+, what printer would you recommend to use for an Duet3D board, and I'm thinking if there is a cheaper one than the UM2
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This has cought my interest, I understand that you get full control over your printer with g code and of course the web UI.
But what about print quality?
Does it really get even more quieter?
What else is there to gain with a switch to a Duet3D board?
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3 hours ago, TwoDrunkOwls said:
What the heck are those stripes?
That most certainly is when the PVA is extruding again after not having printed for a while for what ever reason.
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Holy cr*p ?
Thats the most comprehensive answer I have ever read on the question “any suggestions”
Very well written, this should be pinned. It would help a lot of people.
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2 hours ago, fergazz said:
I worked as a snowboard instructor
Sorry if I’m beeing prejudiced, but how does one from Brazil learn to snowboard ??
Yeah, I’m very grateful for beeing born in this country, but... well lets just say that there are a lot of things that would surprise you, and it probably have since you lived next door to a swede ?
Can’t make multiple quotes from the iPad...
Why I thought you had thousands of posts is a complement in every way. In short; I think your logo (avatar in this case) looks proper, respectful and “serious”. Take great care of it as it is synonymous with you and your company. There is of course a good reason why company's spend millions of dollars making their logo and that they guard and protect it by any means possible.
Have a great day!
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Oh, and I looked at your websites, the look really nice, can’t understand a word though ? And I really like your logo! To be honest when I first saw a post from you here I was sure you where one of those that’s been around the forum for ages and had thousands of posts (how do they do that?)
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Thats inspiring, I wish I had your talent and drive. And I really like your idea to sell quality stuff, nothing pi**es me off more than buying things that you even can’t use, it’s so meaningless, except for the seller of course that makes money...
You should’ve lived in Sweden, there are surprisingly few shops here that deals with 3D printing, at least for personal use. The last couple of years most people I meat have heard of 3D printing but before that most just looked at me like I was from another planet if I talked about it.
I wish you the best of luck!!!
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15 hours ago, fergazz said:
I'm working full-time with 3d printing
This is interesting, what do you do, who are your customers and where are you from?
Not looking for details of course, just curious.
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Looked at the video now, and it’s great, but it makes no mention as to how tight you should tighten the front screws on the print head, there was a space measuring plastic thing that came along with the printer. First when I saw it it made me wonder why you would need to measure the space when everthing looked to be fixed. Then I remembered that at some point the UM2 had a spring on top of the TFM coupler and thought that that’s what it’s for, and have been left in the kit that comes with the printer but is no longer needed. But I put it in there while I was tightening the screws and noticed that you indeed quite easily could over tighten leading to a deformed TFM coupler that in the end makes friction on the filament leading to a possible under extrusion.
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8 hours ago, fergazz said:
did you solved it?
Thank you for helping!
I did solve it, I put the original TFM coupler back.
I’m often fascinated that so many shops in so many different areas take for granted that everybody knows how everything is to be used and so forth, maybe it’s tactical, if customers break things they buy more ?
And of course you can always ask the shop your buying from but how hard can it be to write a few lines describing exactly what it is and what it’s for, everone is a beginner at first.
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Uhh, that dosen't look nice. I'm not the right person to give suggestions about Cura settings as I haven't used it much, but I sure didn't have that much stringing.
Have you tried mailing ColorFabb? I did not, but I wish I had. They clearly state on their site that they help with issues during printing.
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19 minutes ago, LePaul said:
I had to give up on ColorFabb HT. I can not seem to resolve the massive stringing. I upped the retraction a bit more and it's still going on. Meanwhile I have a $14 roll of PETG printing like a champ on another printer. I won't waste $45 on anything ColorFabb ever again.
What slicer du you use and what kind of models are you trying to print?
I'm using S3D and I got satis factional result, I printed the phone holder I posted a few posts up here, it was some months ago but I can't recall any massive stringing in my prints. I would gladly share my profile if it's to any use for you, although I must double check it cus I just looked at it and I had it set to 250° and that a bit lower than my memory tells me.
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This is just unbelievable, yesterday sitting at my computer, I saw my test print lying there beside me and with a smile on my face i took it in my hands and bended it. But this time there was no satisfaction cus it snapped in multiple pieces, like it was made out of glass.
? Whats going on, how is this possible! This time I’m truly done with it.
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Finally, success ? Thanks to @tinkergnome.
The settings aren't mine to share but you know who to ask if you need help.
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ultimaker.com: 502 Bad Gateway
in UltiMaker.com
Posted
Trying to reach ultimaker.com but is being greeted by '502 Bad Gateway'
Just a heads up if you weren't aware